the boost looks about right for a mostly stock car when i went and look back at my graph from stm for my mostly stock tune, so that is fine. One thing that you might have to do is change out the spark plugs and make sure the wires are tight coming from the coil packs. I had an issue similar to that after my first tune. As for the obd2 monitors, you can pass with one not ready. Emery can turn off a couple of the problem ones that will help you pass. They will get you all set.

Thanks for the assurance, I think once we get the little cold start sputtering deal worked out it will help out my spool. It could be so many things.

As for the obdII deal, it is not completing cycles for catalyst, 02 heater, and 02. They are all supposed to be force passed, so something screwy is going on. I am moving into a new house this week so I won't be able to get out to the shop for a few weeks, maybe I will hoard some more parts in the meantime.......

O2 heater is only on the primary O2 sensor. If that's failing, then your O2 sensor is probably bad. That could explain your spitting and sputtering too since it's not warming up properly. It won't throw a code until the monitors are set.

See what happens when you give proper info? You get helpful answers.

ps. It could be a wiring issue too.

People are saying that your boost curve looks about right. I've had numerous people tell me that we should have full boost of about 19.5psi by 3200. Can someone comment on that?

That is exactly what I am asking. Its not like my car is blowing through a cat either, this last dyno was done catless.

Unless you have a boost gauge in the car and are logging it with ecuflash that's just a rough estimate of when you should see full boost. Every car is different and you have to remember that that pull was done on a dyno. Typically, emery starts the run at 3000 rpm in 3rd gear so what you're seeing on that chart is when he rolls into the throttle. It would be impossible for the turbo to go from vacuum to 20 psi as soon as he opens the throttle plate in a matter of 200 rpm. You also have to remember that the target boost is NOT the same as a stock car. The second you start modifying your car it will NEVER function or operate the same way that a stock car does. Sure it might feel like it does but when your commanding it to do something outside of the factory parameters you can log it and the info is right there to compare it to a bone stock evo.

Boost gauge is in the car and I'm logging with an Omni 4 Bar. Full boost 4-4100rpm. That's slow. That was starting from around 2k and then WOT. My car car is just about as bone stock as you can get.

I'm going to put a video up shortly of me blasting it from 3000rpm rolls. Then you guys can tell me what you think.

After looking at your graph, your boost curve looks correct. In my limited experience I have seen that on a 3-port or mbc that the 9.8 hits around 20psi +/- 2psi 500rpm from the start of the pull, and full boost (w/e level) 750rpm from the start of pull. I think you may be asking too much of the car to get it any quicker with a 2L. With your video in the other thread it looks as though you have an electrical boost gauge, which will lag behind your actual boost level slightly.

Good to have some different opinions, the general consensus is that it is where it should be.

That being said I need to start getting some parts together for another trip to the dyno.

I think the 3200 full boost is on the stock system, stock boost level maybe on the 9.8?
I have a 2003 with stock turbo (9.8), right now boosting to 20psi while tuning in e85.
I do have several mods though, full catless turbo back AMS, MAP o2 dump, ETS IC and pipes and ETS intake pipe, Walbro, PTE 1200cc's, hybrid boost setup but only using the Hallman MBC right now, and cams (not sure what type)...

On a WOT run in 3rd gear from about 2500 rpm, I hit peak boost of 21 around 4000 or so. I hit 18-19 around 3500. This is logged from a 4bar map sensor through the ECU. Also watching on my AEM.

Your boost sounds about right to me, look @ various dyno graphs on here and on the dyno database sites of Cobb and EFI Logics, you can find some logs to compare.
http://www.cobbtuning.com/Dyno-Database-s/70119.htm
http://www.efilogics.com/dyno/

Thanks alot, I am still learning alot about these cars and that is a big help!

Your stock cat, DP, Exhaust, LICP are the factors delaying the boost.

I am catless and have an AMS LICP.