NSDQ

iTrader: (1)

Thank you for all that info, didn't mean to hijack your thread, but I definitely appreciate the education.

tscompusa

iTrader: (31)

All good NP. I don't mind.

I ordered the Sparktech CDI Street Seq Ignition System since that's what Sparktech recommended me.

Still going to get a video as is on the non cdi though, but figured that's a important piece to the puzzle for when cranking the boost up.

Migsubishi

iTrader: (38)

So which full standalone are you going with to run this ignition, AEM? Which one?

tscompusa

iTrader: (31)

No no no! I'm still using the stock ECU. Here's the ignition system I'm using:

http://www.sparktechignitions.net/st...roducts_id=208

I'm in the process of building a next engine for the car also (more drag strip oriented) for 50psi+ (2.2L, 153mm R&R billet steel i-beam rods, custom wiseco HD 1400 10.5:1 comp, 94mm turbo tuff crank, etc. But before I remove this 2.4 im gonna give it some serious hell.

I chose the 2.2 because its in between the 2.3 and 2.4 and has a perfect rod ratio for my 4.11 FD trans. It also only sacrifices just enough torque to make it fun and keep from making huge tq like now with the 2.4 the tq is to high. Unnecessary stress on all parts. So once I run over 50psi it will probably have similar torque that I have now, but lots more hp, which is perfect.

I took it out yesterday at around 34psi and out of about 50 pulls it did a misfire once, it might just be to rich at the moment after replacing the alternator. i wasn't logging it since the roads were not that great out, so i was only doing partial pulls for the most part just cracking the WG open.

The tune drastically changed after the new alternator though. I had to lean it out a lot just at idle and cruise now, so im sure its to rich WOT again.

I'll share pics and make a little review on this ignition once it comes in. I've been on the sparktech non cdi since 2008 or so and never had issues. Super reliable product.

Im sure i could take it to over 900 on this ignition, but i rather be safe, so i wont really push the car until the ignition is on there.

Migsubishi

iTrader: (38)

I think I'm gonna get that same one when the time comes. I see your talking about 900hp, do you think the 6466 can move enough air to max out those 2150's?

tscompusa

iTrader: (31)

I think the 6466 on my setup can make 1000+ if pushed.

Fuel wise ya it should be ok on the 2.4 its only 82% IDC right now and it made 810ish

I'm going to put a 3 port on it (hybrid boost) to get rid of the boost spike low RPM and creep the boost uptop to control tq.

Migsubishi

iTrader: (38)

Sounds good, Do you have any thoughts about that new 6870 for the 2.2 if you swap them out?

tscompusa

iTrader: (31)

I got a email about that Gen2 turbo from Precision. It sounds nice, but I am content with the 6466 for now. I rely on my evo for daily driving still, and do boost it every time i take it places, so in that sense i don't want to get to carried away with it.

Once weather gets nice I'm going to add the 3 port to the car as is with the 2.4 and just crank the boost past a certain RPM. I think that's going to make for a really cool looking dyno graph & keep torque controlled.

AreSTG

iTrader: (4)

you logging shaft speed on the turbo? or do you mean keep boost lower longer and ramp up to where you already are out the top?

GravityKnight

iTrader: (3)

Just wanted to throw out a couple thoughts.

My 4g64 killed an alternator. When I pulled it (dropped axle out of t-case, not real hard to do alt swap this way but I have a lift) it had lost all the bolts that hold it together. I don't have balance shafts, but do have a fluidampr (but it's still buzzy of course). New oem alt... a $330 kick to the nuts.... got locktite on those bolts lol.

And I'm sure you know this Tom... but have you tried the non protruded plugs?.. I had crazy misfire issues on e85 until I went to a BR8ES. Just a thought anyhoo

And one more thing I noticed for anyone wondering. I tried to poor some BP 20w50 out of the bottle at about 0 deg F. It literally came out like molasses.. it was super slow, and stringy. Poored some 20w50 vr1 synthetic at the same time and it was better.. and some redline oils which clearly pored the "best" No real scientific data here, but definitely thought that was interesting. I don't run BP in the winter after seeing that (no I don't run 20w50.. but I have mixed their 10w30 and 20w50 to make a 40w). I also put two 150w Kat's stick on pan heaters on my car to help the oil out a little. Just some FYI/FWIW

Anyway that's a sick setup you have and crazy power!

tscompusa

iTrader: (31)

No not logging shaft speed. Ya. Basically run it maybe around 34psi downlow then ramp it up the higher RPM it goes, but do it based on the tq curve.

Technically this cars making 810~ at 36psi. Its just back pressure starts to create the problem where it can not run 36 straight across with just a MBC. I would have to do it with a 3 port if I wanted 36 straight across starting the pull at a decent rpm.

When I was adding boost to this car when tuning it, there was a dead spot per say, where it just increased peak tq mid range and no top end peak hp. Thats why I had to spike it to 38psi to make it hold 36.

So adding the 3 port will help me a lot. The exhaust probably could use some changes to be more efficient as well, but I'm not looking to go crazy with the car or anything.

Easiest way to swap alternator is remove the FPR assuming you still have the stock one on the end of the rail and it slips right out of the top no problem. Removing axle isnt to big of a deal either. Either or works.

Oh ya id never trust 20w50 anything in 0F! Technically that oil shouldnt be used under 20F. I also know what you mean. Even in 30F it pours like that! Definitely kind of scary!

My steering wheel has no vibration and the car in general has no vibration really. Im on stock mounts still though, except for the front trans mount. Mine was just hit real hard with a huge blow, so thats probably why it got knocked loose. It also died due to oil getting into it from about 2-3 years ago.

The 40w mix you made sounds like a good idea for that weather! I think you'd also be ok with just a 0w40 also.

The heater idea is also not a bad idea! Im sure your engine is thankful for everything you mentioned.

Ya the alternator is kind of expensive for sure!

Thanks, and thanks for checking it out!

Im waiting on my CDI ignition to come from sparktech then ill give some more cool updates of video footage hopefully.

Lexus01IS

iTrader: (13)

what spring are you running in wastegate. How much boost do you see?

GravityKnight

iTrader: (3)

yea I have so much crap up there in the way aero fpr, catch can etc. but that makes sense that wouldn't be bad way to go!

tscompusa

iTrader: (31)

The car on wastegate pressure runs 32psi. Wastegate pressure is the red curve in the dyno graph.

I'm not sure why the WG pressure is so high. I followed the paper specs out of the box. If you are curious what spring set does that, I can tell you what springs I didn't use and that would figure out what I have in there. I have a feeling I will take some pressure out because I want to be able to tune it on 93 also and 32psi seems extremely excessive holding to redline for 93 unless the 93 here is capable of handling it.

Yes I have nothing up there. So it was easier for me. For someone who has maybe an aftermarket FPR, and lots of stuff to move like you, the axle is def the way to go 100%!

tscompusa

iTrader: (31)

Misfire issue is gone after lowering boost substantially. I got a pull on video before I filled the tank with 93 to flush the fuel system out and protect it in the winter since E85 attracts moisture.

No idea what power its at in this video. Definitely no where near it was when it made 800 though.


I still haven't got my ignition yet, so until then ill keep it low boost.