Looking for hta71 results mustang dyno
Looking for hta71 results mustang dyno
Hey guys. I’m in the process of purchasing a turbo although I must admit some of the dyno readings I’ve been reading online are messing with my head big time
I’ve seen hta 71s hit 500whp then some read 380hp on 30 psi so I’ve got no clue if it’s worth it to make the switch from my 8 mr turbo to the hta71
reason being, I would like to make around 450 whp through something like a hta71 because I love the down low torque of my 8mr. In Australia we got Dyno dynamics and Mainline(which leads very low, similar to mustang dyno I’ve been told).
Has anyone dynod an hta 71 with advanced timing and 30psi of boost on a mustang or even a mainline dyno?
thanks in advance
I’ve seen hta 71s hit 500whp then some read 380hp on 30 psi so I’ve got no clue if it’s worth it to make the switch from my 8 mr turbo to the hta71reason being, I would like to make around 450 whp through something like a hta71 because I love the down low torque of my 8mr. In Australia we got Dyno dynamics and Mainline(which leads very low, similar to mustang dyno I’ve been told).
Has anyone dynod an hta 71 with advanced timing and 30psi of boost on a mustang or even a mainline dyno?
thanks in advance
Welcome to the Forums.
The problem with a mustang dyno is people adjust the settings and they read all over the place. Most people agree that dynojet's read pretty close and can't be easily manipulated . A common theme is its a "low" reading or "high" reading mustang dyno. Which one is it?
I can only reference dynojet numbers and what I've seen over the years on this platform.
The 4g63 with an MHI housing should go well to 8000 IMO. No reason to choke it with a tiny turbo unless you do auto x IMO.
An HTA at 26-27psi and timing that it will live with on pump gas should make 375whp and trap 114-115 in the 1/4 mile. Add E85 and that becomes 420-430whp around 30psi (keeping torque around 400 so the rods are happy) Traps should be 116-120 with proper gearing. Should make 20psi by 3400 or so.
An MHI green should make 400-410whp on pump gas and 450-480whp on E85 (again keeping torque at 400) 20 psi by 3600-3800 or so.
An MHI red should make 430-450whp on pump and 500-550whp on E85 (torque at 400) 20 psi by 3800-4200 or so
An MHI black should make 450-470whp on pump and 550-580whp on E85 (torque at 400) 20 psi by 4500 or so.
There are other turbo options out there but most would agree that FP performs well in terms of spool up and power. A journal bearing is easy and affordable if you aren't going max effort for long periods of time.
The HTA is a bargain but the green is better suited for a larger powerband and less backpressure. The green will spool around 200-300 later then HTA but dominate out the top on good fuel.
A red is perfectly matched to a mivec 2.0, or a non mivec 2.2/2.3. It will make 20 psi by 3800 and transient response is good. It will also snap the tires loose on a non-mivec 2.0 so don't think its laggy by any means.
I would recommend looking at your end goals with the car . A green or red would be my choice over the HTA. A few hundred rpm given up on the bottom end and alot to pickup out the top. Choose your injectors and fuel pump to meet your needs. ID1300 drive well and will support around 500-530whp on E85.
Important lesson on timing with the 4g63. It doesn't need alot . Choose a tuner with a good track record for longevity/driveability , not peak numbers. This platform is solid and performs well within reason.
The problem with a mustang dyno is people adjust the settings and they read all over the place. Most people agree that dynojet's read pretty close and can't be easily manipulated . A common theme is its a "low" reading or "high" reading mustang dyno. Which one is it?
The 4g63 with an MHI housing should go well to 8000 IMO. No reason to choke it with a tiny turbo unless you do auto x IMO.
An HTA at 26-27psi and timing that it will live with on pump gas should make 375whp and trap 114-115 in the 1/4 mile. Add E85 and that becomes 420-430whp around 30psi (keeping torque around 400 so the rods are happy) Traps should be 116-120 with proper gearing. Should make 20psi by 3400 or so.
An MHI green should make 400-410whp on pump gas and 450-480whp on E85 (again keeping torque at 400) 20 psi by 3600-3800 or so.
An MHI red should make 430-450whp on pump and 500-550whp on E85 (torque at 400) 20 psi by 3800-4200 or so
An MHI black should make 450-470whp on pump and 550-580whp on E85 (torque at 400) 20 psi by 4500 or so.
There are other turbo options out there but most would agree that FP performs well in terms of spool up and power. A journal bearing is easy and affordable if you aren't going max effort for long periods of time.
The HTA is a bargain but the green is better suited for a larger powerband and less backpressure. The green will spool around 200-300 later then HTA but dominate out the top on good fuel.
A red is perfectly matched to a mivec 2.0, or a non mivec 2.2/2.3. It will make 20 psi by 3800 and transient response is good. It will also snap the tires loose on a non-mivec 2.0 so don't think its laggy by any means.
I would recommend looking at your end goals with the car . A green or red would be my choice over the HTA. A few hundred rpm given up on the bottom end and alot to pickup out the top. Choose your injectors and fuel pump to meet your needs. ID1300 drive well and will support around 500-530whp on E85.
Important lesson on timing with the 4g63. It doesn't need alot . Choose a tuner with a good track record for longevity/driveability , not peak numbers. This platform is solid and performs well within reason.
Last edited by Abacus; Feb 25, 2020 at 07:55 PM.
Welcome to the Forums.
The problem with a mustang dyno is people adjust the settings and they read all over the place. Most people agree that dynojet's read pretty close and can't be easily manipulated . A common theme is its a "low" reading or "high" reading mustang dyno. Which one is it?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sDwjfZvmPHg
I can only reference dynojet numbers and what I've seen over the years on this platform.
The 4g63 with an MHI housing should go well to 8000 IMO. No reason to choke it with a tiny turbo unless you do auto x IMO.
An HTA at 26-27psi and timing that it will live with on pump gas should make 375whp and trap 114-115 in the 1/4 mile. Add E85 and that becomes 420-430whp around 30psi (keeping torque around 400 so the rods are happy) Traps should be 116-120 with proper gearing. Should make 20psi by 3400 or so.
An MHI green should make 400-410whp on pump gas and 450-480whp on E85 (again keeping torque at 400) 20 psi by 3600-3800 or so.
An MHI red should make 430-450whp on pump and 500-550whp on E85 (torque at 400) 20 psi by 3800-4200 or so
An MHI black should make 450-470whp on pump and 550-580whp on E85 (torque at 400) 20 psi by 4500 or so.
There are other turbo options out there but most would agree that FP performs well in terms of spool up and power. A journal bearing is easy and affordable if you aren't going max effort for long periods of time.
The HTA is a bargain but the green is better suited for a larger powerband and less backpressure. The green will spool around 200-300 later then HTA but dominate out the top on good fuel.
A red is perfectly matched to a mivec 2.0, or a non mivec 2.2/2.3. It will make 20 psi by 3800 and transient response is good. It will also snap the tires loose on a non-mivec 2.0 so don't think its laggy by any means.
I would recommend looking at your end goals with the car . A green or red would be my choice over the HTA. A few hundred rpm given up on the bottom end and alot to pickup out the top. Choose your injectors and fuel pump to meet your needs. ID1300 drive well and will support around 500-530whp on E85.
Important lesson on timing with the 4g63. It doesn't need alot . Choose a tuner with a good track record for longevity/driveability , not peak numbers. This platform is solid and performs well within reason.
The problem with a mustang dyno is people adjust the settings and they read all over the place. Most people agree that dynojet's read pretty close and can't be easily manipulated . A common theme is its a "low" reading or "high" reading mustang dyno. Which one is it?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sDwjfZvmPHg
I can only reference dynojet numbers and what I've seen over the years on this platform.
The 4g63 with an MHI housing should go well to 8000 IMO. No reason to choke it with a tiny turbo unless you do auto x IMO.
An HTA at 26-27psi and timing that it will live with on pump gas should make 375whp and trap 114-115 in the 1/4 mile. Add E85 and that becomes 420-430whp around 30psi (keeping torque around 400 so the rods are happy) Traps should be 116-120 with proper gearing. Should make 20psi by 3400 or so.
An MHI green should make 400-410whp on pump gas and 450-480whp on E85 (again keeping torque at 400) 20 psi by 3600-3800 or so.
An MHI red should make 430-450whp on pump and 500-550whp on E85 (torque at 400) 20 psi by 3800-4200 or so
An MHI black should make 450-470whp on pump and 550-580whp on E85 (torque at 400) 20 psi by 4500 or so.
There are other turbo options out there but most would agree that FP performs well in terms of spool up and power. A journal bearing is easy and affordable if you aren't going max effort for long periods of time.
The HTA is a bargain but the green is better suited for a larger powerband and less backpressure. The green will spool around 200-300 later then HTA but dominate out the top on good fuel.
A red is perfectly matched to a mivec 2.0, or a non mivec 2.2/2.3. It will make 20 psi by 3800 and transient response is good. It will also snap the tires loose on a non-mivec 2.0 so don't think its laggy by any means.
I would recommend looking at your end goals with the car . A green or red would be my choice over the HTA. A few hundred rpm given up on the bottom end and alot to pickup out the top. Choose your injectors and fuel pump to meet your needs. ID1300 drive well and will support around 500-530whp on E85.
Important lesson on timing with the 4g63. It doesn't need alot . Choose a tuner with a good track record for longevity/driveability , not peak numbers. This platform is solid and performs well within reason.

I already got the supporting mods to one day handle 450ish wheel. Got the fuel pump, cold side piping, Waldron 255 etc. one thing that got me worried now though is what you said about the MPH of the HTA71. I took my 8 mr with the stock 10.5 MR turbo running 27psi to the drags not long ago and ran an 11.7 @ 118 with a 1.6 60 foot. I had to raise the limited a few 100 rpm to cross the line in 4th. Surely the HTA71 will run more then 120? Unless our drag strips are very different?
also, I’ve seen a Evo 8 in the USA run 10.9 @ 126mph with a GTX3071r stock frame bolt on. All the car had was a cold side pipe and 272 cams. Here’s the link:
i have done a fair bit of research on it but haven’t found much. that 126 mph in the YouTube link put a smile on my face.. might be one to look out for since it’s closer to my budget then an FP green or red.
thanks a lot of the detailed response appreciate it! That’s the problem.. to many selections of stock frame turbos these days it’s unreal 
I already got the supporting mods to one day handle 450ish wheel. Got the fuel pump, cold side piping, Waldron 255 etc. one thing that got me worried now though is what you said about the MPH of the HTA71. I took my 8 mr with the stock 10.5 MR turbo running 27psi to the drags not long ago and ran an 11.7 @ 118 with a 1.6 60 foot. I had to raise the limited a few 100 rpm to cross the line in 4th. Surely the HTA71 will run more then 120? Unless our drag strips are very different?
also, I’ve seen a Evo 8 in the USA run 10.9 @ 126mph with a GTX3071r stock frame bolt on. All the car had was a cold side pipe and 272 cams. Here’s the link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KcO7tihbxWw
Do you have any knowledge on this turbo? When it comes on full boost and what there are capable of making?
i have done a fair bit of research on it but haven’t found much. that 126 mph in the YouTube link put a smile on my face.. might be one to look out for since it’s closer to my budget then an FP green or red.

I already got the supporting mods to one day handle 450ish wheel. Got the fuel pump, cold side piping, Waldron 255 etc. one thing that got me worried now though is what you said about the MPH of the HTA71. I took my 8 mr with the stock 10.5 MR turbo running 27psi to the drags not long ago and ran an 11.7 @ 118 with a 1.6 60 foot. I had to raise the limited a few 100 rpm to cross the line in 4th. Surely the HTA71 will run more then 120? Unless our drag strips are very different?
also, I’ve seen a Evo 8 in the USA run 10.9 @ 126mph with a GTX3071r stock frame bolt on. All the car had was a cold side pipe and 272 cams. Here’s the link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KcO7tihbxWw
Do you have any knowledge on this turbo? When it comes on full boost and what there are capable of making?
i have done a fair bit of research on it but haven’t found much. that 126 mph in the YouTube link put a smile on my face.. might be one to look out for since it’s closer to my budget then an FP green or red.
I don't have any information on that turbo. If you want to go drag racing I would lean towards a real turbo kit and a PTE 5858 or the new Garrett line. If you are looking for near stock like spool up the FP line delivers exactly that on the hta,green, red.
Your drag results are impressive. Is that full weight? With that being said, an HTA or larger turbo should be faster.
I don't have any information on that turbo. If you want to go drag racing I would lean towards a real turbo kit and a PTE 5858 or the new Garrett line. If you are looking for near stock like spool up the FP line delivers exactly that on the hta,green, red.
I don't have any information on that turbo. If you want to go drag racing I would lean towards a real turbo kit and a PTE 5858 or the new Garrett line. If you are looking for near stock like spool up the FP line delivers exactly that on the hta,green, red.
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