I had a set of fiberglass taillight covers made to replace the taillights, but the strip where the two bolts install needed to be quite thick to mount properly. Actually, the factory taillights are pretty darn light. I've installed the lighter front transmission roll stop, but have not done the rear differential mounts. I've trimmed quite a bit of interior metal tabs (total weight for a half days work was about 1.5lbs), but there are still more that can be removed - you are correct. I'm already 80 lbs under minimum weight and don't know how much more time and money I want to spend taking out weight I have to put back in with lead sheet. True, it will help balance slightly, but after spending 3 months on this BSP to FP build and almost $20k, I'm tired and need to spend time on things around the house other than the car. My wife is really irritated and it will take me a few months to get back in her good graces.

 

I'd love to see that exhaust and perhaps even see if I can get one made. I didnt know if it was legal for SM or not. Only concern I have is adding weight in the front. As you know, our evos are piggishly nose heavy. I'd love to get rid of the damn HID headlights and ballasts, I am sure they weigh close to 10lbs each

 

Well i would have to say i admire your work that you have done so far. and i wish i had my car to work on this pass year but have not had it in a long time. maybe soon i will so i can keep going on with my weight reduction as well. i will share the photos of my work also. im going to be going a little diff route but should be fun to see what you think!

also hid they say are 13lb! lol i have them too LOL time to throw those things in the trash.

by the way what kind of rims are those anyhow to be so wide but light?
do they make a 16x8 or 7in rim?

thanks

 

Since I drive my car in the mountains, I refuse to give up the HIDs in my rally car, but if you remove the leveling motors (make adjustments by hand), you can trim quite a bit of wiring and motor related stuff. In my car, I ended up using a RS wiring harness in the engine bay when it was put together, so my levelers weren't going to be functional anyways. I don't have any way to weigh the parts, but I'd estimate I was able to pull a couple LBS off the car by chasing wires that led nowhere.

Dave

 

15lb rims are Bogart RR10 in 16x10", made to fit over the smaller AMS Wilwood drag brake setup. Backspace is 6.75". I use a .5" spacer in front and a .4" spacer in rear with these wheels. I weighed my HIDs and they were 10lbs each.

Mark

 

Going to work on getting light over the winter days for the new season

 

If you have a stock looking Evo, please post your weight and what you have done.

What i mean by stock looking is, all interior is intact to the untrained eye, or modified in such a way that still looks like a street car and not a hallowed out shell of a race car.

Oh yeah... Evo8RA, your car is freakin awesome! That is one light *** Evo. I wish I had the ***** and the garage to do that to my car.

 

once i get car back and finsh up my weight reduction i will be more then happen to show some photos LOL.

im shoting for 2500lb this new season with full interior. and i think it can be done. and it will have a full 9sec cage as well!

 

Eh 2500 and stock appearing? you must be cutting ALOT of stuff. I'm at 2800lbs with one seat and a lot of the interior taken out (without driver).

 

Here are some pictures of the short exhaust. Bodywork is dirty from yesterday's cone-hitting exercise.

Mark

 

Here are a few underhood pictures showing the mini AMS radiator, 6-lb Braille battery, no A/C, Ti strut bar.

 

evo8ra - very nice work i would have to say. i like it! it give me some idea but i dont think i can go so wild as you did since the class im going to be running in. but, i will deff post up some photos of my work when it is done also.

 

looks clean

 

so, a 90 off the 02 housing, leading to a muffler and another 90 degree downturn? That seems uber simple.

But oil cooler needs relocated?

Now, whats the stuff in the heat wrap down below? Wiring harness and PS lines?

 

Yah, the exhaust is very simple as you described. Muffler is a 6" long, 3"diameter Dynatech. I removed the oil cooler, took one of the stock oil cooler lines, and just looped it back to where the second cooler line was connected on the motor. The other alternative of relocating the oil cooler would require some new lines to run up along the frame rail heading toward the front of the car. This way the oil lines would run over the exhaust and not interfere. Since I've gone with the mini-radiator on the driver's side, I can put the oil cooler in the large opening on the passenger side created by removing the factory radiator.

I used a 3ft long aluminized wrap, that ties up with a really long lace, on both the lower (and upper) intercooler tubes to keep heat away from them. I also put black (it's actually grey) exhaust heat wrap around the short downpipe and a separate piece around the 6" muffler. I had to leave several inches uncovered to attach the muffler to the downpipe using a band clamp. You can probably do away with this clamp if you want a one-piece exhaust. I made the muffler removable and have a straight pipe section, though I doubt I'll ever take the muffler off. It's sounds too good and is not any louder than many other full-length Evo exhausts I've heard. I'm sure the muffler is very low restriction.

One other thing I did for engine compartment heat reduction was to rivet a layer of heat blanket under the factory exhaust manifold cover & O2 housing cover to keep heat from radiating out. Manifold, O2 housing & turbo hotside are also Swaintech ceramic coated.