fyreant

iTrader: (8)

ok well today I'm gonna start labeling the wires... I don't want to start putting it in until I am absolutely certain where EVERY wire goes.. that way I can do it faster and spend more time on the DIY.. that other manual will help greatly.. it uses the same colors for the same wires right? there are still a few wires I will have questions about but not too many.. you diode isolated everything? how will that help??

Maxdelta

I worked @ a car stereo/alarm company just out of High school and the reason most places dont want to mess with a manual is once they put a auto start (and that is Needed) things can happen that can a) screw up your trans b) I HAVE seen this. The car starts by it self b1) someone could get run over b2) it could really mess up the transmission. Contracts that stores would have you sign nine times out of ten dont hold up in court if it has to do with someone getting hurt. If its jsut dmg to the car it could but not people. Thats why most places wont mes with them.

Oh and BTW oddly some alarms will VOID your warrenty with your car carrier. Check to make sure that isnt one on the list if that matters to you.

Oh and another thing. Alot of times people that have alarms that were put in by car stereo places are the people that ripp you off. they know where you live and where to cut the wires. Make sure they dont have any wires on the exterior of the car. Most the time they put it down really low to its easy to get to. Tell em you want that #*#$er passing across the Fire wall.

Dennis F

iTrader: (22)

I am sorry, but I have been in the business for 16 years and there is not one bit of correctness in this.

fyreant

iTrader: (8)

why is that??





why not?

fyreant

iTrader: (8)

ok.. so i have figured about half of everything out so far.. i still am unsure on some of the wires.. On some of these im not sure if im right or not so here goes..

C/N 1 - PIN 3 - RED/WHITE - this is wired to battery like main red wire right?
C/N 1 - PIN 4 - WHITE (+ ACCESSORY) (dont know where this will go)
C/N 1 - PIN 7 - GREEN (12V TO IGNITION) which ignition wire would i tap for this?

C/N 2 - PIN 1 - GREEN/WHT (LOW VOLTAGE (-) PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT 200MA) dont know where this goes
C/N 2 - PIN 2 - BLACK - STATUS OUT WIRE - i know this goes to the bypass is it the brown on the pku-mit?

C/N 3 - PIN 2 - GRY/BLK - (-) SHUTDOWN FOR HOOD - do we have a hood sensor?
C/N 3 - PIN 7&8 - BRN/WHT AND BRN/BLK GLOW PLUG WIRES - i assuming these were also not used right?

C/N 4 - PIN 2 - VIO/WHT (-) 200MA TRUNK RELEASE - whats different on this from c/n 3 pin 4 (trunk trigger)
C/N 4 - PIN 3 - ORANGE/BLK - DRIVERS DOOR PRIORITY UNLOCK - have no clue where this would go..

C/N 5 - PIN 1 - ORANGE - RE-ARM WIRE - where does this go?
C/N 5 - PIN 2 - ORANGE/WHT - DISARM - where does this go?
C/N 5 - PIN 3 - VIOLET - DOME LIGHT SUPERVISION - do i just wire this to the dome light (-) wire?
C/N 5 - PIN 6 - YELLOW - (-) 200MA AUXILIARY #1 OUTPUT - wheres this go?
C/N 5 - PIN 7 - YEL/WHT - (-) 200MA AUXILIARY #2 OUTPUT - wheres this go?

C/N 8 is the optional sensor - do i need to hook this up?

C/N 10 - i should not have this connector right??

siren - im assuming that the red gets 12v power and the black is grounded right?

thx all..

Dennis F

iTrader: (22)

I have never nor doi plan to use a compustar but I can get you started.

1,2,and 3 all will go to the thick wires at the key switch. I am not going to dig up wire colors but the are 3 wires you need there, 12volt, ign and acc.
12volt is power all the time, ign is power when you turn the key forward and during crank, acc is power when key is on but no power during crank.

c2/1 is a negitive output for parking lights, there should also be a positive, but if not you could catch the negative signal from the light switch in the column.
c2/2 is for the pku-mut
c3/2 is for a pinswitch under the hood. We don't have one, you will need to drill one in or ignore it. c3/7&8 do not use. Tape them off.
c4 - do not use.
c5/3 turns on the interior light when you unlock the doors. Do not use the others.
cn/8 looks like a shocksensor.

Dennis F

iTrader: (22)

That was something that was happeneing when alarms first came out. The market is so much smaller these days that most hack installers have been weeded out. At least in my neck of the woods.

Plus, 90% of todays cars have immobilizers, who cares if you bypass the alarm, stil can't start the car.

onesicklambo

iTrader: (8)

no c8(optional sensor) is for spacial, tilt proximity, etc sensor. You will not use this. It already has a dedicated port for a shock

ChuckP

iTrader: (7)

I find it hard to believe that remote starting the car in gear will damge the tranny.

fyreant

iTrader: (8)

i would assume it would have the same outcome as stalling.. just with the e-brake on....

sblvro

iTrader: (2)

with the compustar properly installed, that's not going to happen

MConsoliA4

iTrader: (5)

compustar is 100% safe, it's been proven time and time again. Transmission problems huh? thats new to me, there's only one instance thats possible and the remote start manufacturers gave us the heads up on it and it sure wasnt on a mitsu, it was on older GMs not powering up the second ignition. Installers will tell you whatever they want if they think it's going to get them out of doing a remote start that they don't want to do or to sell you something they feel is better. I know, i used to be guilty of it myself! And so that EVERYONE knows, a remote starter cannot void your warranty, it's illegal. The most it can void is the warranty on your wiring harness in your car.

fyreant

iTrader: (8)

OK.. so i still havent installed my alarm yet.. (ya i know) i been extremely busy, in the process of moving and what not but now im back on game and plainning on hopefully installing today/tomorrow and will have the DIY up by sometime next week.. going over all the posts about the wiring i've got a fairly good feel on things... just a few last questions on some wires i will have remaining.. thanx..

C/N 4 - PIN 2 - VIO/WHT (-) 200MA TRUNK RELEASE - whats different on this from c/n 3 pin 4 (trunk trigger)
C/N 4 - PIN 3 - ORANGE/BLK - DRIVERS DOOR PRIORITY UNLOCK - ?
C/N 5 - PIN 1 - ORANGE - RE-ARM WIRE - where does this go?
C/N 5 - PIN 2 - ORANGE/WHT - DISARM - where does this go?
C/N 5 - PIN 6 - YELLOW - (-) 200MA AUXILIARY #1 OUTPUT - wheres this go?
C/N 5 - PIN 7 - YEL/WHT - (-) 200MA AUXILIARY #2 OUTPUT - wheres this go?

siren - im assuming that the red gets 12v power and the black is grounded right?

sblvro

iTrader: (2)

disregard those unless you want to install a remote trunk release. the other auxiliary output is if you want to install other devices. otherwise, it should be a breeze from now onwards

fyreant

iTrader: (8)

what about the priority unlock, and the re-arm &dis-arm wires?? after pulling my car apart and testing the ignition wires im already having issues. i see 3 "sets" of wires.. meaning there are 3 groups of 2 wires each going to the ignition. the 2 black wires on the bottom test 12V all the time. those being constant. but i cant get the others to test 12V on ACC or ON?? those wires have 1 black and 3 green.. now what??