speakers suggestion
why DO the MB QUART PCE 216 6-1/2" COMPONENT SPEAKERS 6.5" PCE216
better than Alpine SPR-17LP 6.5" Type R speakers..And the prices are difference also the MBs cost around like 160 but the Alpine type R spr-17lp cost around 75 for both.. I just looking to get some bass since i have alpine amps 4 channels..
i was going with amps/sub but those would make my car heavier.
i want bass but amp/sub is too much..
better than Alpine SPR-17LP 6.5" Type R speakers..And the prices are difference also the MBs cost around like 160 but the Alpine type R spr-17lp cost around 75 for both.. I just looking to get some bass since i have alpine amps 4 channels..
i was going with amps/sub but those would make my car heavier.
i want bass but amp/sub is too much..
the weight difference between a set of components and a 10"/box is only about 10-15lbs... And MUCH MUCH more effective.. The only way IMO you can get 6.5" speakers to introduce bass into your system is to use 6.5" woofers, put them in a ported enclosure. Which in the end weigh's the same or more than a single 10".
If you really don't want to use a sub, but also want bass, you might want to check out the MaxxBass processor. It's $80-$100 or something but apparently makes sub-less systems sound like they have bass. I'd add a sub, though. You'll never get real bass from components or coaxials.
Here is what I am experiencing, when I play the radio or a cd the sound is great when I am at volume 25 or above but when I drop below that I am getting a buzzing vibrating sound coming from the front speakers. I was wondering if I need new speakers for the front?
Ur best bet is to have a component set in the front doors and 3 way speakers in the rear dash,
You may as well just throw a boombox in the back seat if you're gonna do it like that.
Bass is omnidirectional, meaning that you can't tell where it's coming from. Higher frequencies are not.Run components up front, and grab a set of these, and put them in the rear deck. Bridge your extra two channels to 'em, and lowpass them around 80Hz.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=264-832
Of course, you can opt for a more expensive woofer, but these are very good for this application, despite the low price.
If you really don't want to use a sub, but also want bass, you might want to check out the MaxxBass processor. It's $80-$100 or something but apparently makes sub-less systems sound like they have bass. I'd add a sub, though. You'll never get real bass from components or coaxials.

There's also the AudioControl EPIC160, same concept
Last edited by theCybe; Sep 14, 2007 at 06:26 AM.
It accentuates the upper harmonics that we would hear if actual bass was playing - fools us into hearing bass.

To the OP--buy a sub (or two). theCybe's suggestion is good--get two of those 6.5 Tang Bands from Parts Express and drop them in the parcel shelf.
>>>cringe<<<<<<
You may as well just throw a boombox in the back seat if you're gonna do it like that.
Bass is omnidirectional, meaning that you can't tell where it's coming from. Higher frequencies are not.
Run components up front, and grab a set of these, and put them in the rear deck. Bridge your extra two channels to 'em, and lowpass them around 80Hz.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=264-832
Of course, you can opt for a more expensive woofer, but these are very good for this application, despite the low price.
It accentuates the upper harmonics that we would hear if actual bass was playing - fools us into hearing bass.
There's also the AudioControl EPIC160, same concept
You may as well just throw a boombox in the back seat if you're gonna do it like that.
Bass is omnidirectional, meaning that you can't tell where it's coming from. Higher frequencies are not.Run components up front, and grab a set of these, and put them in the rear deck. Bridge your extra two channels to 'em, and lowpass them around 80Hz.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=264-832
Of course, you can opt for a more expensive woofer, but these are very good for this application, despite the low price.
It accentuates the upper harmonics that we would hear if actual bass was playing - fools us into hearing bass.

There's also the AudioControl EPIC160, same concept

It all depends on what you want. theCybe makes a good suggestion of putting infinite baffle 6" subs on the rear deck. You should be able to get decent bass out of those. It won't hit hard, but will sound good.
I have JL Audio mids and tweets all the way around running off a JL Audio 300/4 amp. I also have a subwoofer. But, the bass from just the mids is greater than the original SSL system with the Infinity 8" sub that came in the car. So, you can get "some" bass from just components running off a good amp.
If you really want your systm to hit hard, you'll need a dedicated sub in an enclosure.
I have JL Audio mids and tweets all the way around running off a JL Audio 300/4 amp. I also have a subwoofer. But, the bass from just the mids is greater than the original SSL system with the Infinity 8" sub that came in the car. So, you can get "some" bass from just components running off a good amp.
If you really want your systm to hit hard, you'll need a dedicated sub in an enclosure.
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