Teaser pics, dual fiberglass Sub boxes
Oct 11, 2007, 01:20 PM
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Update:
Here are pics of the driver's box installed:
The white crap is just glass and gel coat from me drilling the mounting holes. They mount to holes in the factory sheet metal on the side wall. I also added a bolt in the floor-board. The bolt in the side sheet metal makes sure that the boxes are totally flush with the side wall. What's cool is that the back side is contoured to the factory trim piece, so it's totally tucked in.
Here are pics of the driver's box installed:
The white crap is just glass and gel coat from me drilling the mounting holes. They mount to holes in the factory sheet metal on the side wall. I also added a bolt in the floor-board. The bolt in the side sheet metal makes sure that the boxes are totally flush with the side wall. What's cool is that the back side is contoured to the factory trim piece, so it's totally tucked in.
Last edited by TempeRacerGuy; Oct 11, 2007 at 01:22 PM.
Oct 19, 2007, 06:48 AM
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Well, last night I got the other box in. I tuned the system and my god does this setup rock!
Even though I sound deadened the entire trunk SOMETHING is rattleing SOMEWHERE.
I cannot believe how tight, and how solid these boxes are. the sound quality from them is truely amazing and I am VERY impressed.
I don't have the false wall up yet, but my carbon fiber strut bar has been installed, and later today my weather/traffic antenna gets installed. (my nav system shows current dopler weather on the screen as well as traffic)
Last night was all about getting this other box installed down and dirty, this weekend is going to be about cleaning things up, and making everything factory like.
THANK YOU SO MUCH Wicked CAS!
Even though I sound deadened the entire trunk SOMETHING is rattleing SOMEWHERE.
I cannot believe how tight, and how solid these boxes are. the sound quality from them is truely amazing and I am VERY impressed.
I don't have the false wall up yet, but my carbon fiber strut bar has been installed, and later today my weather/traffic antenna gets installed. (my nav system shows current dopler weather on the screen as well as traffic)
Last night was all about getting this other box installed down and dirty, this weekend is going to be about cleaning things up, and making everything factory like.
THANK YOU SO MUCH Wicked CAS!
Oct 19, 2007, 12:23 PM
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From POST # 20
and from post #4 (about 10 days earlier)
And then I wrote on post #18, just 2 before your "can't say the same about your amp rack" comment
Please note how the title of this thread was "Teaser pics", meaning that this is far from the completed product :-)
Now, as far as the amp rack :-) Which while to you may look primative, and basic, has so far taken up to about 90% of my install. The rack is made from 1/4" oak plywood which was structurally mounted to the car, there is also Fiberglass/Foam reinforcement on the other side. weight is less than 4 lbs with all mounting hardware for amps and other audio hardware. Rather than use a HEAVY, THICK wood as is typical for amp racks so you can securely SCREW everything in. I used lightweight thin laminate plywood with 4mm X 12mm stainless machine screws along with T-nuts. This way everything is mounted rock solid with minimal weight.
On THIS side:
3 amps
2 1.5 farad capacitors
On the OTHER side:
XXV-05V main unit
Garmin Navigation system
Satalite Traffic/Weather antena interface
I-pod interface
Sirius Interface
Power distribution blocks
All of the RCA wires are concert grade cut to length signal wires with gold terminals. then covered and shielded with mylar. There is not one extra inch of signal wire in the car.
All of the power wires are 1/0 to the distribution block and 8 to the amps Ground wires are all 8 gauge to grounding bolts tig welded to the chassis. all power and ground wires have copper lugs soldered to the ends, then polished and coated with electolytic grease.
Now, Even though all of this has been mounted to my amp rack, the entire assembly is still thin enough that I was able to install my factory rear seats with over 1" of air space on one side, and my strut bar on the other side :-)
But, once it's asthetically done... I will let you know :-)
yeah, it sounds like someone took a leak in my cheerios, but my moto in life is "2nd place is the first loser", I take alot of pride in ensuring that my work is 11/10ths at all times. Which is why this section of my stereo install has taken 3 weeks. I am an **** retentive perfectionist.
A perfect example of this, is that I have spent close to 20 hours on my orbital kit ensuring that the finish others have been so happy with, is mirror smooth and color matched to my car.
Weekend plans: (Install)
-mount carbon fiber false wall (will expose the heat-sinks of amps, and capacitors
-mount carbon fiber false wall (will expose the heat-sinks of amps, and capacitors
I don't have the false wall up yet, but...
Please note how the title of this thread was "Teaser pics", meaning that this is far from the completed product :-)
Now, as far as the amp rack :-) Which while to you may look primative, and basic, has so far taken up to about 90% of my install. The rack is made from 1/4" oak plywood which was structurally mounted to the car, there is also Fiberglass/Foam reinforcement on the other side. weight is less than 4 lbs with all mounting hardware for amps and other audio hardware. Rather than use a HEAVY, THICK wood as is typical for amp racks so you can securely SCREW everything in. I used lightweight thin laminate plywood with 4mm X 12mm stainless machine screws along with T-nuts. This way everything is mounted rock solid with minimal weight.
On THIS side:
3 amps
2 1.5 farad capacitors
On the OTHER side:
XXV-05V main unit
Garmin Navigation system
Satalite Traffic/Weather antena interface
I-pod interface
Sirius Interface
Power distribution blocks
All of the RCA wires are concert grade cut to length signal wires with gold terminals. then covered and shielded with mylar. There is not one extra inch of signal wire in the car.
All of the power wires are 1/0 to the distribution block and 8 to the amps Ground wires are all 8 gauge to grounding bolts tig welded to the chassis. all power and ground wires have copper lugs soldered to the ends, then polished and coated with electolytic grease.
Now, Even though all of this has been mounted to my amp rack, the entire assembly is still thin enough that I was able to install my factory rear seats with over 1" of air space on one side, and my strut bar on the other side :-)
But, once it's asthetically done... I will let you know :-)
yeah, it sounds like someone took a leak in my cheerios, but my moto in life is "2nd place is the first loser", I take alot of pride in ensuring that my work is 11/10ths at all times. Which is why this section of my stereo install has taken 3 weeks. I am an **** retentive perfectionist.
A perfect example of this, is that I have spent close to 20 hours on my orbital kit ensuring that the finish others have been so happy with, is mirror smooth and color matched to my car.
Last edited by TempeRacerGuy; Oct 19, 2007 at 02:59 PM.
Oct 21, 2007, 10:14 PM
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From POST # 20
and from post #4 (about 10 days earlier)
And then I wrote on post #18, just 2 before your "can't say the same about your amp rack" comment
Please note how the title of this thread was "Teaser pics", meaning that this is far from the completed product :-)
Now, as far as the amp rack :-) Which while to you may look primative, and basic, has so far taken up to about 90% of my install. The rack is made from 1/4" oak plywood which was structurally mounted to the car, there is also Fiberglass/Foam reinforcement on the other side. weight is less than 4 lbs with all mounting hardware for amps and other audio hardware. Rather than use a HEAVY, THICK wood as is typical for amp racks so you can securely SCREW everything in. I used lightweight thin laminate plywood with 4mm X 12mm stainless machine screws along with T-nuts. This way everything is mounted rock solid with minimal weight.
On THIS side:
3 amps
2 1.5 farad capacitors
On the OTHER side:
XXV-05V main unit
Garmin Navigation system
Satalite Traffic/Weather antena interface
I-pod interface
Sirius Interface
Power distribution blocks
All of the RCA wires are concert grade cut to length signal wires with gold terminals. then covered and shielded with mylar. There is not one extra inch of signal wire in the car.
All of the power wires are 1/0 to the distribution block and 8 to the amps Ground wires are all 8 gauge to grounding bolts tig welded to the chassis. all power and ground wires have copper lugs soldered to the ends, then polished and coated with electolytic grease.
Now, Even though all of this has been mounted to my amp rack, the entire assembly is still thin enough that I was able to install my factory rear seats with over 1" of air space on one side, and my strut bar on the other side :-)
But, once it's asthetically done... I will let you know :-)
yeah, it sounds like someone took a leak in my cheerios, but my moto in life is "2nd place is the first loser", I take alot of pride in ensuring that my work is 11/10ths at all times. Which is why this section of my stereo install has taken 3 weeks. I am an **** retentive perfectionist.
A perfect example of this, is that I have spent close to 20 hours on my orbital kit ensuring that the finish others have been so happy with, is mirror smooth and color matched to my car.
and from post #4 (about 10 days earlier)
And then I wrote on post #18, just 2 before your "can't say the same about your amp rack" comment
Please note how the title of this thread was "Teaser pics", meaning that this is far from the completed product :-)
Now, as far as the amp rack :-) Which while to you may look primative, and basic, has so far taken up to about 90% of my install. The rack is made from 1/4" oak plywood which was structurally mounted to the car, there is also Fiberglass/Foam reinforcement on the other side. weight is less than 4 lbs with all mounting hardware for amps and other audio hardware. Rather than use a HEAVY, THICK wood as is typical for amp racks so you can securely SCREW everything in. I used lightweight thin laminate plywood with 4mm X 12mm stainless machine screws along with T-nuts. This way everything is mounted rock solid with minimal weight.
On THIS side:
3 amps
2 1.5 farad capacitors
On the OTHER side:
XXV-05V main unit
Garmin Navigation system
Satalite Traffic/Weather antena interface
I-pod interface
Sirius Interface
Power distribution blocks
All of the RCA wires are concert grade cut to length signal wires with gold terminals. then covered and shielded with mylar. There is not one extra inch of signal wire in the car.
All of the power wires are 1/0 to the distribution block and 8 to the amps Ground wires are all 8 gauge to grounding bolts tig welded to the chassis. all power and ground wires have copper lugs soldered to the ends, then polished and coated with electolytic grease.
Now, Even though all of this has been mounted to my amp rack, the entire assembly is still thin enough that I was able to install my factory rear seats with over 1" of air space on one side, and my strut bar on the other side :-)
But, once it's asthetically done... I will let you know :-)
yeah, it sounds like someone took a leak in my cheerios, but my moto in life is "2nd place is the first loser", I take alot of pride in ensuring that my work is 11/10ths at all times. Which is why this section of my stereo install has taken 3 weeks. I am an **** retentive perfectionist.
A perfect example of this, is that I have spent close to 20 hours on my orbital kit ensuring that the finish others have been so happy with, is mirror smooth and color matched to my car.
Everything is looking great so far! I also appreciate you getting back to me so quick on the boxes. Ordered both mine a couple days ago, and should be receiving them this week. I'll post up a couple pics once I'm about wrapped up, but it's going to be close to the same as yours... I'm running dual 10" JL 10w3's, JL amps, and a single cap. just a few other stinger blocks 'n such that I'll be mounting to the box, and hiding behind a false wall, with the same exposed as yours. Thinking about putting a couple hinges across the top, and possibly some Velcro along the bottom, so that it will still be easily accessible, but still somewhat permanent. What do you think?
I'm definitely looking forward to seeing your finished product.
PS: it looks as though you trimmed off some of the trunk lining. Referring to both side pieces, at the cab side of the trunk. Was this so you could make your amp-rack larger, to extend further towards both sides? or am I just seeing it wrong.
Oct 22, 2007, 05:14 AM
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Yes, I trimmed them both back so that I could install the amps, and when I put in the false-wall it will cover where I trimmed them. I trimmed them even further this weekend as I installed my carbon fiber strut tower bar.
I'm not too happy with how they came out trimmed because I was being eaten by mosquitoes and I just wanted to get inside so I did it down and dirty and quick. Once I get everything exactly where I want it, and know how the rear false wall will be, I am going to be buying new side pannels and being more exact with the trim-out.
I am holding my false wall in place with alluminum brackets which will be bolted to the current piece of wood, then the false wall will attach to the brackets with the push-spread type of OEM connectors. I see what you mean about hinged, but it will be a pain in the **** to hold that up then use a light to see under. If I were you, I would just make the whole wall removeable, as once you set up all the amps, you will just put the wall back up and never need access.
I have been thinking of my false wall lately, and while I have the carbon fiber already laid out, I think there may be some resonance issues. While it will look baller, I am concerned about the sound. I am considering just doing some masonite covered with OEM style carpet on the front and B-quieting the entire rear.
We shall see in the up-coming weeks. This weekend I will be pulling the boxes so I can install my JDM rear bumper, and using dyna spray in the quarter pannel voids. once that hardens, I am going to fill all those areas with expanding epoxy foam. It will totally **** off any body guys in the future, but it will get rid of any extra resonance or vibrations that I don't want for very little weight.
My rear bumper may take me longer than I expect, because I am considering welding up a custom crash beam that will incorporate an area in the licence plate for a trailer hitch... Or I may just modify the current crash beam to accept the JDM bumper and have the hitch bolted on from under the car... hmmm.
I'm not too happy with how they came out trimmed because I was being eaten by mosquitoes and I just wanted to get inside so I did it down and dirty and quick. Once I get everything exactly where I want it, and know how the rear false wall will be, I am going to be buying new side pannels and being more exact with the trim-out.
I am holding my false wall in place with alluminum brackets which will be bolted to the current piece of wood, then the false wall will attach to the brackets with the push-spread type of OEM connectors. I see what you mean about hinged, but it will be a pain in the **** to hold that up then use a light to see under. If I were you, I would just make the whole wall removeable, as once you set up all the amps, you will just put the wall back up and never need access.
I have been thinking of my false wall lately, and while I have the carbon fiber already laid out, I think there may be some resonance issues. While it will look baller, I am concerned about the sound. I am considering just doing some masonite covered with OEM style carpet on the front and B-quieting the entire rear.
We shall see in the up-coming weeks. This weekend I will be pulling the boxes so I can install my JDM rear bumper, and using dyna spray in the quarter pannel voids. once that hardens, I am going to fill all those areas with expanding epoxy foam. It will totally **** off any body guys in the future, but it will get rid of any extra resonance or vibrations that I don't want for very little weight.
My rear bumper may take me longer than I expect, because I am considering welding up a custom crash beam that will incorporate an area in the licence plate for a trailer hitch... Or I may just modify the current crash beam to accept the JDM bumper and have the hitch bolted on from under the car... hmmm.
Oct 22, 2007, 02:44 PM
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Yes, I trimmed them both back so that I could install the amps, and when I put in the false-wall it will cover where I trimmed them. I trimmed them even further this weekend as I installed my carbon fiber strut tower bar.
I'm not too happy with how they came out trimmed because I was being eaten by mosquitoes and I just wanted to get inside so I did it down and dirty and quick. Once I get everything exactly where I want it, and know how the rear false wall will be, I am going to be buying new side pannels and being more exact with the trim-out.
I am holding my false wall in place with alluminum brackets which will be bolted to the current piece of wood, then the false wall will attach to the brackets with the push-spread type of OEM connectors. I see what you mean about hinged, but it will be a pain in the **** to hold that up then use a light to see under. If I were you, I would just make the whole wall removeable, as once you set up all the amps, you will just put the wall back up and never need access.
I have been thinking of my false wall lately, and while I have the carbon fiber already laid out, I think there may be some resonance issues. While it will look baller, I am concerned about the sound. I am considering just doing some masonite covered with OEM style carpet on the front and B-quieting the entire rear.
We shall see in the up-coming weeks. This weekend I will be pulling the boxes so I can install my JDM rear bumper, and using dyna spray in the quarter pannel voids. once that hardens, I am going to fill all those areas with expanding epoxy foam. It will totally **** off any body guys in the future, but it will get rid of any extra resonance or vibrations that I don't want for very little weight.
My rear bumper may take me longer than I expect, because I am considering welding up a custom crash beam that will incorporate an area in the licence plate for a trailer hitch... Or I may just modify the current crash beam to accept the JDM bumper and have the hitch bolted on from under the car... hmmm.
I'm not too happy with how they came out trimmed because I was being eaten by mosquitoes and I just wanted to get inside so I did it down and dirty and quick. Once I get everything exactly where I want it, and know how the rear false wall will be, I am going to be buying new side pannels and being more exact with the trim-out.
I am holding my false wall in place with alluminum brackets which will be bolted to the current piece of wood, then the false wall will attach to the brackets with the push-spread type of OEM connectors. I see what you mean about hinged, but it will be a pain in the **** to hold that up then use a light to see under. If I were you, I would just make the whole wall removeable, as once you set up all the amps, you will just put the wall back up and never need access.
I have been thinking of my false wall lately, and while I have the carbon fiber already laid out, I think there may be some resonance issues. While it will look baller, I am concerned about the sound. I am considering just doing some masonite covered with OEM style carpet on the front and B-quieting the entire rear.
We shall see in the up-coming weeks. This weekend I will be pulling the boxes so I can install my JDM rear bumper, and using dyna spray in the quarter pannel voids. once that hardens, I am going to fill all those areas with expanding epoxy foam. It will totally **** off any body guys in the future, but it will get rid of any extra resonance or vibrations that I don't want for very little weight.
My rear bumper may take me longer than I expect, because I am considering welding up a custom crash beam that will incorporate an area in the licence plate for a trailer hitch... Or I may just modify the current crash beam to accept the JDM bumper and have the hitch bolted on from under the car... hmmm.
http://www.socalevo.net/forum/index.php?topic=48344.0
Oct 22, 2007, 03:29 PM
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yeah, I've seen that, and that may be what I do. However I travel ALOT and own a sportbike, so I want a hide-away hitch. I am considering welding a reciever that can be hidden behind the licence plate. I don't trust the crash beam with a sheer force like that, so I will probably fabricate my own.
Thanks for the heads-up though
Thanks for the heads-up though
Oct 25, 2007, 03:09 PM
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Well, I was going to be doing work on these after work this week, especially since my JDM IX bumper arrived as well as my Evo-Dave carbon fiber trunk, but 2 days ago, I got hit with a SERIOUS FLU... I have been bed ridden for a couple days now, and doubt I will be doing work on it tomorrow either. If I feel better, this weekend I will be doing some work on it and getting pictures.
Sorry for the delay guys.
Sorry for the delay guys.
Oct 26, 2007, 04:07 PM
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Orbital Dash Kit
I know that this thread is mostly about the sub boxes, which look great but I noticed in your post the comment about your orbital kit. I finally got mine in the mail a week or two ago after ordering it back in February. Since the metallic finish discontinued I ended up with a grain kit. I was planning or refinishing it and then paint matching it to the car as well. I was wondering if you wouldn't mind posting a picture or two of your finished kit, it sounds like it is just along the lines of what I was planning on doing. I was even thinking of glassing in a holder for my defi-control unit and turbo timer under the air controls. By the way those boxes do look great, I was planning on making my own just like them, by hey why not save the time. You did say that the 12" subs would be a better install though?
Oct 26, 2007, 04:46 PM
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I know that this thread is mostly about the sub boxes, which look great but I noticed in your post the comment about your orbital kit. I finally got mine in the mail a week or two ago after ordering it back in February. Since the metallic finish discontinued I ended up with a grain kit. I was planning or refinishing it and then paint matching it to the car as well. I was wondering if you wouldn't mind posting a picture or two of your finished kit, it sounds like it is just along the lines of what I was planning on doing. I was even thinking of glassing in a holder for my defi-control unit and turbo timer under the air controls. By the way those boxes do look great, I was planning on making my own just like them, by hey why not save the time. You did say that the 12" subs would be a better install though?
I thought at first a good filler primer would work with the grained kit, however the grain was too deep and I had problem with the paint I used with the primer... something kept causing serious orange peel. so I ended stripping it all off, and doing a skim coat with bondo, then sanding it all down. If I were to do it from the begining, I would use a finishing skim coat of bondo on it, sand it smooth, primer and then paint.
As color matching the stock interior metalic silver is such a pain, and those who have done it already are holding the paint code close to their chest, I decided just to color match it to the exterior of the car. As my spray gun and supplies are back in AZ, I had a local paint store mix some PPG color matched base coat paint and put it into a couple rattle cans. So far I have re-painted the center shifter console and ash-tray, and once I finish the orbital kit I will post that up.
Because I am not using a double DIN unit, and mixing brands, getting suround trim for the units turned out to be impossible. So I laid out a carbon fiber pannel and shaped it to the inside of the Orbital kit. Once I have the DIN units in place and measure everything out, I will be cutting the carbon fiber panel so that it fits flush around the DIN units and fills in the little gaps.
If I were to do it over, I would get the dual 12" boxes, the interior volume of the boxes is enough for good 12s" and the boxes are laid thick enough they can handle the pressure waves. I am a fan of JL audio products, so I would use these boxes with a set of 12W3V3s or 12W3V2-D2 connected to a good 600W amplifier, and that will give you a sweet sound with lots of thick bass.