I see what you're saying. Most likely, the rated amperage is limited by the gauge of the wire. That comes into play when an amplifier is forced to draw more current from the electrical system, as in the event of driving low-impedance speakers.

 

oh, ok. sounds like a few people are using is with the stock speakers without a problem, that's good to know.

 

The Power Pack is a good solution for our cars. Though its power rating is a bit optimistic, it has more than enough juice for the stock speakers. Alpine decks are very good sonically, their cosmetics are somewhat restrained like our interiors, and their panels (kinda) match the stock lighting.

The stock deck is the biggest limiting factor, equipment-wise. Replacing it with a current Alpine + PP is a win-win situation. MUCH better sound quality than an iPod running into a POS Boss amp, using itself as a system preamp, same amount of weight, and complete utility.

 

I find it funny that I purchased Type R component speakers all around and then have the Alpine HU send 18W RMS to them. I'm severely under-powering them and can't wait until the PP gets here.

 

the instructions say to install the power pack and crank the radio as loud as possible, if the power pack shuts off then u don't have enough power. I never did this and haven't played the radio loud enough to ever have the pack shut down.

the cables are long enough where i have the power pack behind my gauges that are where the stock radio location was, the radio is now in the cubby hole spot.

 

Awesome then I'll use the same place you used to mount it as I have the radio relocation kit as well.

I'm kind of weary to turn the radio up as loud as possible just to "test" and see if the amp cuts off. Won't this harm my speakers not to mention my ears..LOL

 

Anyone using this Powerk pack with a separate sub?

 

It doesn't really have enough power to run a sub. Conceivably, one could use 2 channels to power a very sensitive DVC setup, if its impedance is relatively high, but it's not really a workable solution.

 

We have installed them at our shop and on people running factory speakers. Well, its a matter of time before they blow up. For instance, We did one in a Silverado and the next day all four speakers were blown. This isn't like a big stand alone 4ch amp so keep that in mind with what you are expecting out of it

 

maybe lol thats why i didn't do that.

 

There is no amplification device in existence that can reach out and stop a clueless ****** from turning the knob to 11, causing the amp to clip, generating excess heat in the coils, thus frying the speakers.

The mobile audio industry is used to treating its costumers like idiots. Instead of explaining how amplifiers function in conjunction with a given driver and its associated load, they cut it down to the lowest common denominator. The Power Pack, in essence, is the amplifier from the deck with a better power supply. It will not drive a difficult load to a high volume. The stock speakers are very sensitive and easy to drive. If you hear them distorting, it's time to turn the volume down.

 

BUT it helps when you have a xover on the amplifier and a gain so you can dial it in... in this product you have neither.

 

A crossover for what? An adjustable HPF is built into the deck and the speakers are configured from the factory. The input sensitivity of the amp is matched to the gain structure of the deck. As such, the final determinate lies with the user.

 

you can't begin to tell me you think that the HPF "x over" that is in one of those radios are doing justice.

Come on man.

and as far as dialing in gains to the speakers as you could with a standalone amplifier compared to the power pack is no where near adjustable to make the speakers last... factory speaker power ranges are usually designed for no more than 15watts.

 

We can have three types of variable x-overs: analog active, analog passive, and active implemented in the digital domain. 90% of car audio amplifiers feature variable passive x-overs. Not only does the performance of the piece hinge on a linearity of $0.10 pot, but it also bring about a number of sonic anomalies not the least of which is variable phase shift.

Active variable crossovers, like the ones featured in the better amplifiers - Zapco being a good example - do not encounter the same limitations outside of added noise and distortion, though less so than the passives, but they are significantly more expensive. A x-over implemented in the digital domain is the best possible alternative, as it has no working drawbacks at all. Everything happens via an algorithm. With me so far? As such, a x-over in the Alpine is a lot better-sounding than the one in a typical car amplifier. Not only that, but it allows for control at one's fingertips. Win-win.

I should also say that not all Alpine decks technically operate in the digital domain. The lower priced units are analog, in a sense, as they're not DSP-driven, but the rest applies. In essence, the x-over is variable via a fixed network switched electronically.

You're talking about this as if there's no volume knob. So what if the speakers are rated at, say, 15w? What difference does that make? I understand that in car audio the gain structure is sometimes adjusted to compensate for some fool trying to turn the knob all the way, but that's not a real solution:

1. It's safe to assume that the average Evo owner has a brain larger than an apple.
2. By tuning down the system gain, at times the sound will remain below the noise floor, rending the entire exercise useless.
3. The PP does have 2 fixed gain settings, so if this truly is an issue there is an option.