Im wondering what do you guys perfer when installing a remote start system into customer cars. Soldering all your connections or using properly sized wire T-taps? I somehow for volunteered to start installing aftermarket remote starts into customer cars at my dealership and they want me to solder all the connections. For me, id just t tap all my connections since it is way easier to tap into a wire behind the dash then to try n reach my soldering iron and solder to the connecting wires. Plus time is money

Any insight will be greatly appreciated guys

thanks

 

Hey man, I'm an MECP installer. PERSONALLY, I'm against T-Taps.lol Though, scotch-locks are worse(you didn't mention this, just throwing it out there). Now, I don't solder behind a dash...only because I'm horrible at soldering. Also, the other installers I've worked with through the years don't solder(unless they have to for specific vehicles). My group usually uses strippers to strip the wires(factory wiring) back, then using a pick tool to seperate a hole in the copper strands, tie in remote start wiring, secure with electrical tape and then ziptie to prevent strain on the connection.
You'll probably get mixed reviews on our method, but the three of us here have yet to have a car come back with a wiring problem(Knocking on wood )

Just keep this in mind: install as if someone will see. It's something I was told, and I told our newest guy. Just because it functions, doesnt mean it's all good. You can google remote-start install pics....after you see some bird's nests, you'll understand.

Sorry for the book.

 

Great reply mogace! My opinion on this subject (not that it matters much) is nothing can beat a properly soldered and heat shrunk (is that even a word) connection. The biggest problem with t-taps besides the guy using the wrong size/ga is they are usually installed in a way that vibration and/or oxidation ruins the connection. Most installs i run across have the brain or relay packs weight hanging on the connection causing stress along with the vibration. I have used t-taps for years and have had great success when installed correctly. Soldering these wires are a pain because of location, gravity as well the tight confines installers are faced with. The problem i see with soldering them or doing it like mogace described is most installers use an electrical tape that releases over a short period of time with the extreme heat a car interior is faced with on a day to day basis. Once this happens on the solder method or his method you have quite a few high current bare wires in close proximity of each other. Believe it or not i have seen this more than a few times come thru our shop.

 

Suprastar makes a good point.
MY METHOD, isn't just poke, twist, and e-tape. It's poke, twist, e-tape AND ZIPTIE. Sounds dumb, but it helps prevent that problem with heat. I'll post a pic later when I'm not at work.

I'm down for some constructive criticism, so if we can brainstorm a better way, I'm game.

 

i wasnt faulting your method mogace incase you took it that way and can see where the ziptie could solve the release issues but can still also see the elements getting to the connection unless it is continuously sealed. talking very long term since we are discussing inside the vehicle connections. from the 3 or 4 options available none are really optimal since even the soldered y splice cant use heat shrink unless the main wire is cut through. so it seems most will use what works for them and deal with what comes of it.....

 

Your method is good enough for just about any electrical install, unfortunately some don't use it. Purchased my Evo with a remote start already on it(not properly installed) and ended up having to rewire it myself using your method.

this is true, especially when trying to do and install behind the dash. Crimping, twisting, e-tapping is hard enough to do by themselves!!! In a small car, you can hang it up!!! Try to solder or heat shrink some wires may cost you and the customer some serious pain. Not worth it IMO unless the wires are going to be moving some serios amps, watts or volts!!!

 

No, I didn't take it that way. I just wanted to make sure I was being clear because I'm a big visual person and often don't explain things well when I'm on here.

It's one of those things, I know it's not the best but it more than gets the job done.

Someone on another forum board was telling me about something that he used. He described it like it was something you could put in a "glue gun". IDK, I can't find the thread on that other board. Anyone else heard of anything like this?

Like I said, if we all can put our heads together and come up with a better way, I'm down.

 

I am going to have to agree with the above. Yeah soldering will ensure that all connections are never coming apart, but only if you are 1. a smurf that can fit under the dash and 2. you are damned good at soldering. I personally don't use wire-taps either. I like to use mogace's method. Although I don't zip tie the connection, I zip tie the module down to the bracket under the radio in most cars. This keeps everything from moving around.