2 Odyssey PC680s dead in a 2 week span.... coincidence?
When you say after cutting off its dead is this like immediately after running? How long of a drive are we talking here? Bc technically the car once started should be able to run off the power from the ALT but depending on how taxed your system is there is potential for it to need additional resources from the battery. Either way when you have a moment start your car and tell us what voltage you are seeing.
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When you say after cutting off its dead is this like immediately after running? How long of a drive are we talking here? Bc technically the car once started should be able to run off the power from the ALT but depending on how taxed your system is there is potential for it to need additional resources from the battery. Either way when you have a moment start your car and tell us what voltage you are seeing.
Strange. See what it shows for volts when running. The fact that it runs but wont even crank once turned off leads me to believe the ALT is working but maybe the voltage regulator crapped out and its frying your batteries bc of that? Just a thought but would be good to know what youre seeing for volts with the car running.
Drive to your local Auto Zone (or similar) and have them use their battery/alternator testor. They have a current draw option to pull a load to test your alternator. If you have a bad diode or 2, it will show.
Can that be done with the alternator still installed on the car? Not saying its always obvious but checking voltage off vs on is such a simple test and I've successfully diagnosed alt issues just like that.
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Okay so next day I am free I am going to jump start the car, and then read voltage while car is running and it should read 14.5V. If not - that points to the alternator correct?
Correct, charge up the battery, test voltage prior to starting, should say around like 12.6 I think is the official figure then turn on the car and test voltage when running and you should see it jump up 2v to around 14.6v. Do that and report back.
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But I’m telling you the battery now is toast so I don’t think it’s going to read any voltage. All I will be able to do is read it when I get it jumped off and started, no?
edit - guess I could put a charger on it and once it’s fully charged, take a reading while the charger is connected still?
edit - guess I could put a charger on it and once it’s fully charged, take a reading while the charger is connected still?
Last edited by Bmurray; Nov 19, 2018 at 02:51 PM.
Just get a voltage of the battery of the changer but thats not really the important figure we're after here. What we are looking to see if if the voltage jumps up once the car is on. If you have no battery in the car at the moment you could just park another car next to yours hook up jumper cables, check voltage which will say around 12v then start your car and see what its showing then.
No need to overthink or complicate it really just want to see voltage when running.
No need to overthink or complicate it really just want to see voltage when running.
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Okay finally got around to doing a few voltage tests today...
Car off completely
~12.6 Volts
Key in ACC position
~11.8 Volts
Jump started and key in ACC pos
~14 volts
Jump started and running
~14.6 volta
Car off completely
~12.6 Volts
Key in ACC position
~11.8 Volts
Jump started and key in ACC pos
~14 volts
Jump started and running
~14.6 volta
Last edited by Bmurray; Nov 29, 2018 at 02:26 PM.
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Where would you guys look now that alternator (should be) ruled out?
when I did the parasitic draw test it wasn’t anything to worry about. But obviously something is triggering a draw while I am driving
when I did the parasitic draw test it wasn’t anything to worry about. But obviously something is triggering a draw while I am driving
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