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Power door lock opens when window switches pushed

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Old Aug 5, 2021 | 05:19 AM
  #1  
Joseph Gordola's Avatar
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Power door lock opens when window switches pushed

I have a problem with my 06 evo 9, whenever i open or close the window. The car unlocks itself, or it goes crazy unlock and lock. I have pulled the fuse and have been using a key to enter, as it sometimes unlocks while i am parked.
I have no aftermarket command start system, and have also tried switching the power door switch module(MR587943). I have checked the wiring and there is nothing loose. The only thing i havent tried swapping is the ETACS module. Any info
will help. Thank you!
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Old Apr 16, 2022 | 01:47 PM
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EvoStevo777's Avatar
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Hey Joseph,

i'm have also having a problem with my car locking its self rapidly at random times. My problem happens regardless if the windows are moving. did you ever figure it out?
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Old Apr 24, 2022 | 07:37 AM
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Hi both, try checking the connector behind the small panel left of the clutch pedal, see "Electrical Gremlims"

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...s-how-fix.html
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Old May 1, 2022 | 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by patric78
Hi both, try checking the connector behind the small panel left of the clutch pedal, see "Electrical Gremlims"

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...s-how-fix.html
Yup This

To this day, I still get some of these jobs a here and there on a North East EVO somewhere. Mostly from finding the Sticky here.

Spring 2020 I drove out to CT from NEPA to fix the last one I did wasn’t a forum member, never even looked it up on google. Funny was though friend of a friend of a family member. This car had been sitting in a barn/garage for like 10+ years. Was parked there initially as will eventually happen it wouldn’t shut off when turning off ignition, as the wipers and door locks were going by themselves then he saw sparks, heard popping sounds, and saw and smelled smoking, he said he disconnected the battery and has been there since.

Told me a local shop wouldn’t even look at it for him.

Then tells me apparently there was a Mitsubishi Dealer nearish to him which had long since closed down when I first spoke to him. He said when contacting them back then they told him likely there was a bunch of aftermarket parts on the car, to which he replied to them it was stock. They said it was likely from the original owner and was told that these cars were commonly being cheaply modified and being that the car was displaying the symptoms he described that all wiriring in the entire vehicle would need to be replaced along with fuse boxes, sensors, engine, modules, and computers. ECU and ETACS I guess hahahaha

I asked him why when he saw it spark and smoke he just didn’t look it up or call another shop and tell them where it was sparking and smoking from. Any competent mechanic could have fixed this for a couple hundred over ten years earlier.

He said he didn’t really remember where it was sparking just that it was under the dash. I explained to him where exactly and what the issue was, told him how to fix it, he didn’t believe me at first, told him about the sticky thread here, however he wasn’t very mechanically inclined, he said. His parents just helped him get into another car at the time and he was either going to have someone part the car out for him, sell it as is, or if he couldn’t scrap it as it wasn’t drivable.

I get there, car was a bone stock GG IX with like 38k miles on it, no car cover sitting on flat dry rotted tires and dusty as hell. Interior was mint actually didn’t smell, no mildew or moisture at all, engine compartment was dirty but no rats or mice nests or chewed up wires. Air filter was like you just took it out of the box as was the cabin filter. So I pumped the tires to check the undercarriage, and no rusting threw anywhere, gas tank and front and rear subframes had no rusting threw issues at all. Just a very lil mild surface rust they’d normally have after a month of ownership, very solid car. I showed him where it was sparking and smoking from behind the kick panel and definitely was amongst the worst I’ve ever seen and done, actually had to solder in lengths of wire to nearly every wire from the backside of the large connector due to how brittle and how far up I had to cut wires back to get to clean wire to solder to. Sealed up the grommet, threw him the connectors still connected together as usual they’ll never pull apart, funny enough he was adding Stabil to the tank 1-2 times a year so I added 5 gallons of gas, new plugs, couple drops of oil down each plug hole, new battery, and it fired on first crank. Open loop to closed loop fueling was perfect never even stumbled on on kick down. I wasn’t going to try and drive it as I knew the brakes would be locked up pretty damn bad especially since the ebrake was handle has been applied for over 10yrs and plus the tires were toast. No CEL on dash or pending, had to reset the SRS light as usual then my job was done!! Oh, I did hose off one of the Brembos and it was like new, not faded at all.

He was calling a reputable local detailer to properly remove over 10yrs of dirt, grime and dust from the paint surface without marring and swirling it to hell then a full detail interior, exterior, engine bay, and a quick undercarriage surface treatment and Metal protectant

As well as having a local mobile mechanic and tire guy fit new tires, brakes, replace every fluid in the car.

We talked a month or so later and he was driving it daily in nice weather, was going to park it in winter and said it looked and drove better than the day he bought it!!

A other CT9A saved!!





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Old May 30, 2022 | 09:29 AM
  #5  
Joseph Gordola's Avatar
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I checked the door kick where the harness is located and it all seemed clean to me. I also swapped the driver side buttons from the wreckers, same issue
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