Hi,
Anyone has the experience or knowledge about etacs access ?. I have the open port cable, knowing that we can use this cable to access the etacs setting.

 

i try to do the same, for now i don't have any information, so if you have any update about this, please let me know.

 

What exactly are you trying to accomplish, and we may be able assist you further

 

It would be nice to disable the minimum current draw so that the turn-signals do not "fast flash" when LEDs are installed. I had to build a custom resistor setup and put it in parallel to increase current draw. I tested this with a 50watt variable resistor to find the maximum resistance I could get away with before fast-flash occurs. (5.5ohms was the magic number for my setup)

 

You could try swapping out* the current shunt on the ETACS PCB. You would need to measure current draw with incandescent bulbs and then measure the resistance of the shunt. Using Ohms law you can then calculate the voltage drop the etacs is expecting to see on the circuit. Then measure current draw of the LED bulbs. Using Ohms law you can then source a shunt with an R value that will create a voltage drop that matches the expected incandescent bulb value.

I've been thinking about doing this for a while, just haven't pulled the trigger on it.
* De-solder -> Re-solder.

 

I have thought about it before also- I'm not sure if they use a shunt to "measure" the current draw, or if it is done inductively by some other means. I have never opened (or even removed) the module. But I like the way you think!!!

I specifically remember the day I had finished building the electrical portion of my headlights and I hooked it up all loose-like to test the turnsignal circuits and get an idea of how much resistance I could get away with. I have a huge hockey puck size variable resistor I used. It has 50 watt heat handling.

 

~ 6 years ago I was having some electrical issues that I can't recall (getting old sucks). As part of trouble shooting that I pulled apart the ETACS ecu to look for issues. The capacitor looked a little suspect, so I went ahead and swapped it out. I also took the opportunity to remove the door chime speaker because it was annoying. Here are some photos from that adventure.






I didn't trace it out or anything, but I'd be willing to bet red circle or maybe blue circle is the current shunt for the turn signals.

 

my problem its maybe more complex jajajja, my evo is from japan, and here in chile they change from rhd to lhd, because its illegal drive a rhd car. So, the problem is, the front windows are "inverted", i try to move down/up the passenger window, and move down/up the driver windows, if i try to move down/up the driver window, then move down/up the passenger window. Also the rear-view electrical mirror have the same problem. So in a russian forum i read the info for etacs, and in that forum i see the internal ETACS info, and that have a item named "handler side", i guess this value can solve my problem. Previously i try to fix this by cables and relays but i cant fix it.

 

Looking at the circuit diagram for the NA CT9A the ETACS doesn't appear to control the windows. It supplies power to the switches/motors but the motors themselves are controlled analog by the switches. Reconfiguring them should be a matter of pin swapping the connector at the main switch.

 

Be nice if it was as easy as other vehicles ie… Subaru, quick relay swap and no more hyper blink!

but the modification to the ETACS.