BTW, anyone who has broken (unusable) MAF sensors, I'd be interested in them as long as their connector is in good condition..

 

wow, that's all I can say. I was seriously considering selling my utec and buying the aem or the hydra nemesis simply for the restrictions caused by the maf. Jack (sorry if this question is incredulous) how is greater airflow caused by larger compresors/wheels going to affect the calibration of this unit? Also, what would you charge to build something like this? ) This would be the missing link in my setup.

 

Actually I really like the Hydra Nemesis and can't wait to see one firsthand..

There is no question, the MAF sensor MUST be calibrated for specific airflow requirements.. since you have a normal range of operation for the ECU and any piggyback that runs with it, the output frequency must fall within 22hz to 2000hz.. When you increase the maximum airflow (whether it be less restriction, bigger turbo etc..) you will need to make adjustments.. Also Air Intake temp... So, you need to have Idle frequency, max frequency, attack (the curve) and temperature compensation specifically calibrated...

I came across an unfortunate glitch with the hardware i'm using, I'm not certain if its the electronics on my unit, or the IAT sensor or some other issue.. It works FLAWLESSLY for my drive to work, and tuning/adjustment.. But when I get stuck in traffic on the way home from work, the idle frequency (I've set it for 30-42hz with the engine warm) climbs to 70-90 hz and just rests there, I have isolated it to 3 possibilities..

1) the IAT is reading improperly, or something near it is transferring heat to it and biasing the frequency

2) the electronics are heat sensitive and are getting cranky under the hood

3) there's something wrong with the sensor itself..

Keep in mind, this thing functions and works PERFECTLY (once its adjusted and scaled correctly) until what appears is heat builds up. I will talk to the manufacturer on monday and see what it could be. I suspect the control unit may be calibrated for either the 2G Eclipse, or the airflow rate is fouled up.. Its also possible I have to put the IAT sensor in the intake pipe instead of the blowthrough body..

Stay tuned! I'll have some more info in a few days..

 

Hey guys, I wanted to bump this thread for an update..

I have installed the second generation blowthrough sensor, it is my Buschur Upper intercooler pipe where Pro-Flow calibrated and integrated a Ford Cobra sensor into the buschur pipe itself. Also, I'm not sure if you guys noticed (And I didn't catch this early on) but the original blowthrough setup had the air temp sensor located in the original blowthrough tube, not to mention the sensor ended up right near the water neck where it would pick up alot of heat too.. Lets just say it forced the unit into a heat compensation mode which threw off the entire airflow reading. When the new pipe was shipped to me, I moved the AIT sensor into the intake pipe where it should have been. Let me add that pro-flow does not place an AIT sensor in the MAF tube unless its being used for a drawthrough setup therefore when they sent me the new setup with the buschur pipe, it didn't have the sensor in the pipe anywhere.. Thats when I realized the sensor was supposed to be in the intake pipe (How stupid am I?)

I have some drivability info that i"ll post later after I post updated photos this weekend.. Lets just say cold weather drivability is improved.. a few minor quirks, but overall functions VERY WELL and it no longer troublesome to tune a car with alot of mods and high airflow..

 

Since I never addressed this question WAY back.. I'll answer this now..

MAF sensors are a direct measure of the air going into the engine.. therefore MAF readings ramp linearly with increases in airflow into the engine. It takes a bit of finesse to get a tune out of it since the default ramp isn't quite as steep as the factory MAF sensor, it can be adjusted with the MAF Calibrator (you adjust the idle voltage and high airflow voltage, it will then increase the ramp to closer to the stock EVO maf)

 

Just for references, David Buschur welds the IAT right (6In. or so) after the intercooler pipe.

 

In order for this setup to correctly compensate for air density, and allow the factory ECU to allow its enrichment functions to work properly, the air intake temp sensor needs to be before the turbo, otherwise you get a biased (and hot) reading. On the AEM its not a problem because you have the control over how the temp is compensated. You don't have that luxury with the ECU. Plus speed density works a little differently, since it needs to calculate airflow into the engine where a MAF sensor is a direct reading of it.


Also the pro-flow setup auto-compensates its airflow readings by using the air temp sensors value and 1bar MAP value, its designed to keep the AFR's stable after the car is tuned (according to pro-flow)

For example, if the AIT senses an intake temp of over 100 degrees, the car would think its in a very hot environment and the factory ECU would likely enrich the fuel curve. The standalone is a different animal.

 

I'm glad to see you worked it out Jack. Remember me PMing you regarding this very issue? It was quite a while ago..

 

Yep.. It took time to resolve the issues, originally we thought the converter box was absorbing the heat or there was a defect in the box.. Since there weren't any reference photos of other installs to go by for this setup, I had to figure out exactly what the ECU was doing and how everything worked.

 

Good stuff... funny thing is, I was going to revive this thread earlier today for an update... but got busy.

 

Yeah, I'll have a ton more to post, some pix, some tuning advice, some workarounds for the tip-in throttle (since the airflow lags behind slightly, the nature of a blowthrough setup)

 

how much will they be selling these for???

 

Not 100% sure, I think its around $500 or $600 depending on the sensor..

Keep in mind that other solutions end up costing the same, or more, after all the parts and components, and of course time spent.. There's also a speed density conversion out there called MAP-ECU, its the only other viable product I researched, but its MORE expensive at about $900 and its a combo speed density / s-afc type device.. Similar to the HKS VPC.. and you guys know how I feel about speed density..


You can ask them for pricing with a complete buschur upper intercooler pipe kit.. since they can get the upper kit, integrate the pipe for you, and get the whole unit.. I think that ends up being about $1000..

Its not cheap, but it works well.. The only cheaper alternative is the GM Maf and Ramchargers MAF Translator which requires a little more work to get up and running (it has some other issues but I haven't personally tuned one so I don't have firsthand experience with it)

if possible, try to get a "sacrificial" stock MAF sensor thats broken or damaged, and reuse the connector off it.. Makes plug and play swaps ALOT easier.. (I can put my stock MAF back on the car in 5 minutes if I need to, and a majority of that time is putting the recirulation hose and 1G valve back on)

 

Great job! I was waiting for one Evo owner to trailblaze this area. From reading this topic, I'm assuming you're using Ford's hotwire setup, just like the Nissan (240sx, Silvia transplant, and 300zxt owners - JWT may have a plug, but I can't remember the pin plug design as a former S13 owner).

http://www.cnlperformance.com/95mm_03cobra.html
95mm . . . biggest amongst the Cobra


http://attila.sdsu.edu/~mmikse/domai...f/cobramaf.htm
I think it's 90mm or close to it from a 93 cobra. Good closeup pics.


http://www.blueovalperformance.net/products.php?cat=67
A slew of Ford hotwire for various sizes. For the NA guys (not this site), they have to look at the Contour SVT option from 65-80 or 85mm.


Amongst GM's hotwire, there is Granatelli's version, but it looks aggresive from stock MAF (tons of airflow).

Now for the GM translator for the 3 inch, 3.5 inches, and the Z06 3 5/8 inches MAF, the 1g DSM uses a 6 pin plug that is blockish in shape. The 2g DSM, 3kGT VR4, and 97 and under G93 have the same 7 pin plug that is wide, rectangular shape.

I'm assuming the Evo from 4-6 (seen pics of an E6 MAF and confirmed with an NZ owner of an E4) to now uses the 7 pin plug that is stubby and rectangular in shape. This is also the same for the +98 G93, G94, post 98 or 99 G64, and the NA 3KGT to the 3g eclipse GT (unknown on the GTS . . . I do believe they used the same setup as the 3.5 and 3.8 liter of the same engine family).

 

To break up my post a bit.

I haven't figured out the Lancer RA yet, whether karman, hotwire, or MAP. This system looks to be similar on the 3.5, 3.8, and the 3g eclipse GTS . . . just short study at the showroom when I know I can't undo parts at the dealership.

If you can mass produce the pin plug (either Ford or GM style), this can pave the way for the NA guys with the G93, G94, and the 3g eclipse guys (ya, those guys are conservative in doing things). Of course, I have't figured out which transalator to use, but I'm leaning towards the 2g DSM wide plug design.

BTW: I do have a 3.5 inch GM MAF, not on my car yet.