Yep.. I do have several different MAF sensors from different cars.. the Evo's connector is a 7 pin, however its smaller in size than the earlier cars. (different than the 99 Galant) but should be shared by several newer cars after 2000 or so.. (connector only, not MAF since this MAF is unique to the Evo 7 and 8) (there's a closeup pic of my connector on the first page of the thread) I have since had to replace the "Cast" version of my connector with an OEM one I salvaged.. Unfortunately the castings all cracked as the weather got cooler.

 

Do you mean pre or post 99 Galant?

When I had my G93, I used a 99 Galant MAF which shared the same pin connector as the NA 3KGT or 3g eclipse GT. Of course, the G93 has the same one for the lancer too.

Do you have a pic on your MAF? What's the 3 bold black #'s on it? Is it 399 like Rhyzin had shown me long ago?

I noticed 7 pins = OBD2 while 6 equates to OBD1 (seen it on my talon and the 1g 3kGT VR4 wire diagram.

 

99 or earlier OBD-II cars.. There are two distinctly different connector types for the 7 pins.. one is fairly wide, one is much narrower.

 

I had to verify the Galants on www.car-parts.com as reference.
+99 galants = smaller pin plug
-98 galants = different plug. Did they use 2g DSM MAF?

 

Not sure.. they don't look exactly the same, but they appear to have the same connector.. and your right, the Galant MAF I have is a 98 not a 99.. It was labeled wrong by the salvage yard.

 

MAF UPDATE..

I've been running the new improved setup for about 2 weeks now, haven't had ANY stalling issues whatsoever in the cold weather..

Only things I recommend if you run one of these.. Raise your idle speed slightly, when the engine RPM is under 1000rpm the engine's exhaust volume isn't enough to keep airflow into the engine through the turbo, so when it spins down, the car goes rich when the airflow drops below the aiflow calibration point (idle calibration) Doesn't stall at all, but takes a second or two for the AFR's to go back to 14.7..

I can tell you now that I've adjusted the tune, that the car feels ALOT stronger than with the MAF, AFR's are about the same (in my case 12.0 at WOT, yes I know its lean, but its not hurting anything on my car) and the car feels like its picked up quite a bit of torque.

Additionally, I'm also running an HKS SSQV which is loud and ugly sounding, but it holds boost so I have a nice stable 20psi of boost through redline... so there's no doubt I've picked up 30 or so HP thanks to that too..

I did a test run playing around with the car and hit the rev limiter I set (6800 rpm so I could test without having trouble) about a second before I expected it, fully bouncing off the limiter.. The car is alot faster than it was.

While doing this testing, I may have found out WHY alot of people are having their RPM's climb between shifts and I'll post about that in the thread dedicated to it.

I definitely recommend this mod, but I want to get some warm weather driving on the car before I can give it a complete thumbs up..

Just remember to raise your idle speed to 1000-1100rpm to keep the airflow rate up passed the sensor.

 

This is interesting, Jack, do they have the specs on hand to build another one of these or how would one go about getting it??? RRR

 

I used a Buschur Upper Interocooler pipe, HKS SSQV with a Skyline flange (1G DSM flange) and sent the pipe to have the sensor installed in the pipe..

I definitely recommend an integrated setup as opposed to my first gen setup which had the blowthrough setup and upper intercooler pipe on it..

you can order the Sensor, and Karmann converter kit through www.pro-flow.com They know of my car there and know what parts you'll need.

So far I have not needed the remote calibrator, but its good to have to adjust your airflow scaling.. You don't need it if you want to save money.

The wiring, well.. Best recommendation I can make is to get a broken Evo MAF sensor and salvage the connector off it. Ultimately the molded items I made cracked, and ended up salvaging one off a broken MAF. Plus its now plug and play and I can put the stock MAF back on any time you want... (Remember to leave the BOV recirculated if you want to swap back to MAF and not have drivability issues) I keep the stock MAF in my car just in case something happens where I have to swap it back.

I still have my prototype setup, it will fit to replace either a buschur upper setup, or a stock upper intercooler pipe (or anything oriented like stock) since I made a special coupler for the short route of the Buschur to his elbow.. I relocated the AIT sensor to the intake pipe from the tube.. Obviously that was a mistake on my original vendors part (they put the sensor in the blowthrough so it needs to be plugged with something that will not pop out under pressure) Not sure if I want to sell it.. But the only thing its missing is the karmann converter box and the Air temp sensor... I may pick those parts up to make it complete again and resell it.




There is one thing that I'm not too sure of with the Karmann converter box I'm using.. Since the factory ECU compensates for air density, and so does the Karmann Converter, it may overcompensate on hot days.. I will talk to the guys at ProFlow about this possibility, and if they can add a air temp sensor bypass or a calibrator so it doesn't overcompensate as the weather gets real cold, or real hot (so far it hasn't proven to be a problem, but I suspect this was part of my stalling issue when it was very hot out.. but we'll have to wait until the summer this year to know for sure)

 

Any updates lately?

 

Ok.. Here's my update.. Since I'm an A$$ and haven't had the opportunity to take new pics of the new setup (the Buschur upper pipe with integrated MAF and IAT in the intake pipe)

So far the car runs like a champ.. NEVER stalls, however my car occasionally has low idle, when the idle drops, the MAF frequency doesnt, and the car runs rich.. so occasionally it swings from rich to lean.. However it never stalls...

The ECU takes **SEVERAL DAYS** to relearn fuel trims and other things... but I can tell you the things it learns at this point and drivability improves after 4-5 run cycles..

1) Open loop long term fuel trims
2) Idle speed bias
3) Tip-in throttle enrichment (yes, the ECU adapts to this!!)
4) Part throttle closed loop tip in (YES The ECU adapted to this too)

Hows that for impressive.. if you were running a standalone, you'd be tweaking this stuff several days over different weather conditions to get it right..

The only thing that we really need is some sort of idle speed control... Everything else seems to adapt over time.. This is really impressive..

For you ECU flash guys, this is something that can be "Zeroed" out to reduce the ECU's adaptation time...

I have been running this over several weeks, 9degree weather, 50-60 degree weather.. No really hot days yet, but haven't had any terrible drivability issues after the ECU adapts..

The only issue I get, and I think this is a combination of my catalytic converter efficiency in general, is when I do a WOT Run, I get a CEL light for a bank 1 too rich.. But I never clear it since clearing the CEL resets all the trims..

Right now I'm working on two things to address other issues I'm getting, a Coil on plug setup, and a Water Injection setup...

 

Oh, and I removed the SSQV until I"m certain I can adjust it well enough not to get compressor surge under most instances.. I am running the 1G DV again recirculated.. remember guys, I didn't choose to run a blowthrough MAF setup to run a VTA BOV.. just to improve performance, which it has.. I have picked up around 30 whp and similar torque.

 

I get the idle swings with my car also when the weather gets cold. I'd say it happens in 50 degree or less temps. I'm still running the stock ECU with a TurboTrix custom tune and HKS intake. This is the first time that my car has been in weather this cold. I just think it is a common thing with Evo's. They just don't like to idle in the cold.
MJ, you are running a UTEC right?

Barry

 

Yeah I noticed it to a lesser extent on the stock MAF.. I think the blowthrough sees it a little more because when the airflow drops below a certain point, the Karmann converter hits a low point (its set point) and stays there.. This goes away when the idle is set for 1200rpm but at 1000rpm it occasionally will load itself up and drop slightly.. Otherwise I have had ver little trouble with it..

The REAL test will be on a hot day, thats when my first attempt was a little less sucessful due to idling problems.

I am running the UTEC, but I've been very careful not to alter any of the UTEC settings for idle so I'm certain that this setup will work for ANY Evo that is running a MAF. I also have run this for some time with only the stock ECU.

 

Sounds good man. I also notice when it is cold out I will get missfiring and sputtering around 4500rpms and 5500rpms. I don't know what the deal is with that cause it doesn't happen when the temps are warm out. Similar things happened to my buddies evo with the missfiring and his shot a flame out the tailpipe. We have similar mods except for the IC. Some nights the car runs really strong then other nights it will run strong untill it hits those rpms. It will only happen under full throttle and about 21psi. The peak Hz I register on my Afc2 are about 1620. I figure that it's something to do with the maf causing it to run really rich momentary. The rich condition is prolly blowing the spark out which causes the missfire. Have you noticed anything like this when you ran the stock ecu or even now?

 

Yeah this isn't the thread for that, but I can tell you I had a similar thing happen with my old S-AFC setup (and on the new UTEC setup) when the plugs get worn.. usually I change the plugs and the problem goes away..