Dynoflash vs. SAFCII
Originally Posted by DynoFlash
Could you kindly post up a dyno sheet? I would be interested to see what it looks like with 91 octane.
Originally Posted by GREDDY
Ok, give me a couple of days. When I dyno'd at MAC motorsports, I forgot to bring a disk so I didn't get my dyno run on it and I don't have a scanner either. They can't email it either so I'll have to drive up there to get a copy of it on disk.
The fuel pump is still a good idea as you continue to mod, not a bad thing to have. The AEM wideband works great. (don't do what I did and get something off breed to save money, the voltage is wrong for either the AEM or Autronic EMS )

Definitely just get a drop in filter or go with an airbox like the ARC. I have the HKS RS, I know I have gains at WOT, but I also have compressor surge for the 90% of the rest of the driving that I do--which I'm not pleased about. But it does look kick *** so at least they got that right.
If I had do overs, I'd go with the ARC box or APS induction as compressor surge is not a problem for that unit. I'd also definitely get the AEM wideband. There are tons of choices out there for a wideband.
You can also get an Apexi turbo timer and use the narrowband O2 sensor. Its not as accurate, but let me define that. The number fluctuates more than a wideband. If you hold an RPM and give it a chance to stabilize (as in about 2-3 seconds) the reading is VERY close to the wideband. Its not good for road course tuning but gives you a good rough idea.

Definitely just get a drop in filter or go with an airbox like the ARC. I have the HKS RS, I know I have gains at WOT, but I also have compressor surge for the 90% of the rest of the driving that I do--which I'm not pleased about. But it does look kick *** so at least they got that right.
If I had do overs, I'd go with the ARC box or APS induction as compressor surge is not a problem for that unit. I'd also definitely get the AEM wideband. There are tons of choices out there for a wideband.
You can also get an Apexi turbo timer and use the narrowband O2 sensor. Its not as accurate, but let me define that. The number fluctuates more than a wideband. If you hold an RPM and give it a chance to stabilize (as in about 2-3 seconds) the reading is VERY close to the wideband. Its not good for road course tuning but gives you a good rough idea.
An added note on the SAFC. I installed it as my first mod and definitely had the knock issue Dynoflash is talking about. However, the HKS RS eliminated that issue so I have to give them credit in that department. I get almost no knock whatsoever now, I had to double check my wiring to make sure it wasn't loose because I went from 8 at idle to 0 and almost no knock throught the power band.
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