Hot! Check 4 Vac Leaks, I found 3
Originally Posted by bishiboy
No my car isn't idling any better.
I think I may have a bad injector.
It has been an on-going problem 1st found by Big Al and myself on a custom flash he did for me.
It meets all the symptoms of a bad injector, poor starting, bad Idle, poor mileage, and it clicks sometimes (My #2 injector). They are PTE 680cc DSM injectors.
When I'm in the gas, it runs fine, just sucks starting and idling. I've noticed my AFR between 19 and 17:1 until it warms up.
After it warms it's much better but still isn't very smooth, up and down.
I did go to colder Denso plugs, that could cause the poor starting and cold idle.
I'm going to send the injectors to RC just as insurance.
Any other thoughts?
I think I may have a bad injector.
It has been an on-going problem 1st found by Big Al and myself on a custom flash he did for me.
It meets all the symptoms of a bad injector, poor starting, bad Idle, poor mileage, and it clicks sometimes (My #2 injector). They are PTE 680cc DSM injectors.
When I'm in the gas, it runs fine, just sucks starting and idling. I've noticed my AFR between 19 and 17:1 until it warms up.
After it warms it's much better but still isn't very smooth, up and down.
I did go to colder Denso plugs, that could cause the poor starting and cold idle.
I'm going to send the injectors to RC just as insurance.
Any other thoughts?
I think testing the injectors is a good idea - but I am concered the problem seems intermitant
A fluke meter hooked up to the injector lead may shed some light on the issue
BYW - when you get a chance send in the ecu for the idel flash revision
Originally Posted by bishiboy
After reading a few posts about finding vacuum leaks, I did my own check.
I went to Lowes and bought a 2" PVC peice and an end cap.
I drilled out the cap with a 1/2" bit. I made my own tap by cutting groves into a spare 3/8" NPT fitting. I cut the threads into the end cap with it, then used a new one with lots of Teflon tape to seal it in. I used PVC cement to join the two pieces...instant pressure checker.
Next I removed my intake (HKS RS). I secured the pressure checker to the turbo inlet, connected my air hose and dialed in 10psi of pressure from my air compressor.
I immediately heard hissing.
1st leak was the pressure line going from the compressor housing to my HKS EVC boost sloenoid. It was leaking BADLY at the housing. I replaced the entire line with a new, smaller line (4mm I think), and double zip tied both ends.
The next leak was my Turbo XS H34 (recirc) BOV. It was seeping. I checked it by spraying water with a little dish soap in it. I removed it and cleaned the seat. After reinstalling it still leaked a bit, but not as bad. I think if I use some valve lapping compound it will completely seal.
the last one has me.
It's leaking at the throttle body, at the butteryfly shaft. If I giggle the shaft, I can hear it leak more and less. I'm not sure what to do? Can it be rebuilt with new bushings? It's not too bad, but I think it is actually a vacuum leak during non-boost times. My idle sucks, I do have 272s but I have cam gears set at -4/-1.
I also sparyed the soapy water over the entire boost circuit, from turbo, IC pipes, IC, BOV and all vac lines. Also the fuel injector seats.
I didn't even think I had a leak and found 3. I suggest this to all. Cheap insurance. Cost less than $5 for the parts, as long as you have an air source.
I went to Lowes and bought a 2" PVC peice and an end cap.
I drilled out the cap with a 1/2" bit. I made my own tap by cutting groves into a spare 3/8" NPT fitting. I cut the threads into the end cap with it, then used a new one with lots of Teflon tape to seal it in. I used PVC cement to join the two pieces...instant pressure checker.
Next I removed my intake (HKS RS). I secured the pressure checker to the turbo inlet, connected my air hose and dialed in 10psi of pressure from my air compressor.
I immediately heard hissing.
1st leak was the pressure line going from the compressor housing to my HKS EVC boost sloenoid. It was leaking BADLY at the housing. I replaced the entire line with a new, smaller line (4mm I think), and double zip tied both ends.
The next leak was my Turbo XS H34 (recirc) BOV. It was seeping. I checked it by spraying water with a little dish soap in it. I removed it and cleaned the seat. After reinstalling it still leaked a bit, but not as bad. I think if I use some valve lapping compound it will completely seal.
the last one has me.
It's leaking at the throttle body, at the butteryfly shaft. If I giggle the shaft, I can hear it leak more and less. I'm not sure what to do? Can it be rebuilt with new bushings? It's not too bad, but I think it is actually a vacuum leak during non-boost times. My idle sucks, I do have 272s but I have cam gears set at -4/-1.
I also sparyed the soapy water over the entire boost circuit, from turbo, IC pipes, IC, BOV and all vac lines. Also the fuel injector seats.
I didn't even think I had a leak and found 3. I suggest this to all. Cheap insurance. Cost less than $5 for the parts, as long as you have an air source.
what are the symptoms of vacuum leak? showing less or more vacuum on the boost gauge when off the throttle? or nothing detectable?
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