Still need help, gonna sleep for a few hours to clear our heads.

What did you unplug and forget to plug back in after the install? Check all harnesses and vacuum connections. If you removed the upper IC pipe, make sure all the clamps are tight, including the BOV. If you removed the intake, check that the MAS is plugged back in and the clamps are tight. Check all sensor harnesses that you may have unplugged over/around the valve cover (CAS, front O2, coil packs, etc.) along with any vacuum lines...including the BOV and PCV valve.

If the cams/crank are all on their marks with #1 @ TDC, the plug wires/coils are in the correct order and the CAS trigger is in fact in the correct orientation, the problem lies elsewhere....if in fact, there is a problem and it's not just a low idle caused by the cams. It should start and idle relatively "OK" on 264s without any type of tuning...and moreso on a cold start since it will be a high idle.

Does it not run on its own at all or just idle very low? Does it idle any better when you turn the A/C on? If so, it may very well be that you just need to do some idle tuning and there is no physical problem at all. The only thing that would make me leery of this conclusion is that you flipped the CAS trigger and nothing changed one way or the other

What "indicators"? Timing will float around a lot at idle with aftermarket cams and adds to the stalling issue while driving, but it should not be enough to where the car won't start and idle at all. You can try bumping up the idle speed with the Idle Air Bypass (big Phillips screw on top of the t-body -- turn CCW to raise idle), but it really should not need to be over 950-1000 RPM ever (at normal operating temp). You will likely need/want to adjust the IAB a little anyway, idle tuning or not, so you might as well give it a try. It should stabilize the timing float a very little bit and get a tad of the lost vacuum back...

No, it won't run on it's own, without throttle input, it just starts, idles for a couple seconds, and dies.

Hey al, the good news is that we got the turbo bolt that had broken drilled out. What a pain.

Does this start up, then die down and try to go back up again? Maybee Idle Surege?

No, it doesn't go back up, even hodling throttle down, it just comes back down stumbles and dies.

If it starts and runs "normally" for a second, then dies, something is probably just unplugged (sensor or hose). Did you check all the other things that I mentioned? After you flipped the CAS trigger to test it, did you then flip it back the way it's supposed to be?

When you get it running and keep it running by holding the throttle, does it run smooth or rough?

ok, last night it would start and run rough. It was very rich, like gas coming out the tailpipe. Today, it won't start at all. Could it be the fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump?

The crank timing should be a little BTDC when the cam gears show TDC.

yes it shows ~2-3 degrees before TDC with piston at TDC.

What about the chances of it being fuel pressure regulator? we are going to check on that now

Can you do a compression test. Hope it isn't a bent valve.

Of course the first question has to be what did you change between last night and today? Was it the CAS trigger change? Did you put the trigger back where it's supposed to be?

Was there literally fuel coming out of the tailpipe? The HKS cams have more overlap you will have more emissions because of it and that is likely what you are smelling. A lot of that will go away once it's properly tuned. Have you pulled the plugs yet to see it they come out fuel soaked? If the plugs are soaked and/or the is gas coming out of the exhaust, the problem is whatever you changed between when it would start and today...likely spark timing.

You're already moving on to other things, but haven't answered any of the questions I've asked. It's kind of difficult to help without knowing what has been verified/eliminated as a potential cause...

I very much doubt the issue is the FPR. You've either got no spark now or it's completely at the wrong time: fuel doesn't ignite, car won't start and lots of raw fuel smell in the exhaust. I do believe you are making more work for yourself looking at anything besides what you touched during the install...

Ok, we have spark. We have no fuel, as we pulled the line off of the FPR and no fuel when we turn key on. We hotwired the battery to the fuel pump, it worked, but not work when key turned on. We are hunting for the fuel pressure relay.

put the trigger back and it wouldn't start either way. cams and crank shaft are aligned. Fuel was coming out last night, but now it is not. We have a theory that the relay blew this morning.

Check the Crank angle sensor plug at the back left of the rocker cover....make sure it is plugged in correctly....check the small earth on the Cam angle sensor(the small wire)...check you have not pulled vaccume hose off the fuel regulator solonoid, Make sure your MAF is plugged in until it clicks
Get a code reader and pull pending code from ECU....this should get you close to the problem..