crank angle sensor is solidly connect, as is the small earth wire on the cam agnle sensor. All vaccum hoses connected. MAF wasn't unplugged, but we checked and it is solidly connected. Code reader shows no codes.

We used the service manual, the fuel pump, fuel pump relays all check out as functional, but the fuel pump resistor is at 0 ohms. There is no power to the pump when key is on, but when power is hotwired from the battery, it works.

 

OK, then is the spark occurring when it's supposed to? What is the piston movement when spark occurs?

No fuel out of the FPR return with the key on or during start doesn't necessarily mean anything. You do know that the pump only primes and then goes off with the key "ON", correct? The FPR solenoid also closes the FPR to deliver max fuel pressure under certain start conditions. So you may have no fuel out of the FPR, but what you really need to check for a true "no fuel diagnosis", is the cylinders. Put the plugs in, crank it a few times, pull the plugs and see if they're are wet.

If not, then begin your search, starting with the crank angle sensor like Dyno4mance said and I asked about a couple of posts ago (along with all the other sensors and vacuum lines)...

Did you do any other work at the same time that we don't know about? This sure seems like a whole slew of potential problems from a simple cam install

 

I am wondering what other things you did besides the cam shafts? Did you guys install the fuel pump last night or was that done some time before the cams?

 

Ok, gnulooks, yes we did install the fuel pump last night, but returned it to stock when we encountered issues, as we thought that either the pump was bad, or we could eliminate it as a problem.


Blackevo, sorry about not answering your questions, I think I did, but didn't hit the reply button, my bad. We checked all connections (we took pics before we started, and all are connected. You saw my reply to dyno4mance, we did check the maf, crank and cam angle sensors.

How can we check when spark occurs?

Fuel, we have the line from the tank to the fuel pressure regulator undone and pointed in a bucket. We hotwired the pump, and no fuel comes out of the fuel line at the regulator.

 

I don't know it this would apply to checking spark on an Evo, but I used to do this on my quadracer. You take the plug out connect it to the spark plug wire and you place the tip of the spark plug on a metal part of cylinder. All you do is crank the car over and it should make a spark when done so.

I would wait a little longer and see if someone else has a better solution before trying what I suggested. This worked for a one cyclinder engine, dunno if it will work for an Evo...

 

Quick question,when you installed the cams,were both pins/cam sprocket dowels in the upward direction,like 12:00 position or once you installed cams did you have to rotate to get them that way(I hope not),because if you did you may be looking at a few bent valves.
If you have a compression gauge or access to one I would personally do a compression check and or leak down test and you may find your problem.

 

The resistance to the pump is controlled by the ECU via the relays for high and low operation. It may very well be that 0 ohms off/at start is normal for maximum fuel during cranking (like the FPR solenoid does for the pressure).

Again, the pump comes on for a second to prime and then is OFF when the key is just "ON". If you need to test for power without running the car, watch the multimeter/test light when you first turn the key on...it should show power while the pump primes and then go off...

The FPR may or may not be holding up the fuel from coming out of the return. If you need to know for sure if the pump is working, pull the supply side fuel hose and hotwire the pump. If the pump works, do the same, but turn the key on and see fuel comes out during the pump prime operation. If so, the pump and/or the relays are not the problem. Then check for fuel in the cylinders by installing the plugs and cranking it, pulling them and seeing if they are wet. If so, the injectors are firing and fuel supply is not your problem.

First: DO NOT DO THIS if you have fuel or fuel vapors all over from your fuel tests. Clean it all up/air the garage out, etc. I would also unplug the crank angle sensor so the injectors don't fire. Try it at your own risk...

To check the spark, you can pull all of the plugs out, leave the coils/wires connected to them and lay the plugs on a ground (not sure if the Mag valve cover will work for that?) turn the key on and rotate the engine by hand (at the crank, clockwise). 1&4 should fire together and 2&3 should fire together. After you've verified that they are firing in pairs correctly, turn the crank until a set fires again and then use a straw, screwdriver or something to touch the top of the piston through the plug hole of one cylinder that just fired. Continue turning the crank slowly and see if the piston in that cylinder is moving up or down.

It's not very "technical", but it's a quick way to see if 1) they are in fact firing and 2) they are firing during the correct piston movement (BTDC). If the plugs are firing on downward piston movement, your CAS trigger is 180 out and/or your coils/plugs are installed in the wrong order (can't particularly see how that would be possible on this engine).

Like I said, don't do it until there is no fuel or vapors and unplug the crank angle sensor. Spark and fuel together is only a good thing inside the cylinder It's cheesy, but I've used it effectively in the past to diagnose improper spark timing on a friend's DSM and the problem became immediately clear...

 

gnulooks - We did a spark check last night using the mothod you described, and they were sparking. (It Tingled very nicely too!)

turbodan - Yes they were at 12:00. We didn't have any trouble putting the cam gears back on the dowels. It all lined up well. We listened for any piston slap and there was no sign of piston slap. We are going to try to get a compression tester to verify.

 

gnu, you guessed it! It works great on DSMs, but I haven't tried it on an Evo. I've always cranked it by hand so I can see the events more easily. I see no reason it would be any different on an Evo compared to DSM...just not sure if the anodized Mag valve cover is going to offer a good ground for the plugs...

 

Yes, yes it does, can we say lightning show? Can we say tingle?

 

Wow, please continue to post possible solutions as this thread is applicable to me as I might undertake this project to change the shafts and gears by myself. I hope you and fellow members find a resolution for this problem, I'll be sure to keep my eyes on this very interesting/informative thread. Members here are very knowledgeable and helpful, I know where to go for aid in all aspects of automotive repair!

 

Well if engine was at TDC and cams we at 12:00 position upon install,the possibility of bending any valves would be very remote.Did any rockers fall over and off valve when installing cams?With a compression check you will be able to tell if any internal engine damage would have occurred.Hope not.Without hearing engine running I cannot help much from here.Hopefully it is just something small and overlooked,as thats what most things are when trying to be soooo cautious,it is usually the little/easy things that are overlooked,not the big things.

 

I personally wouldn't have held them, but you are saying 1) they are firing in the correct pairs and 2) they are firing on upward piston movement of each cylinder, correct?

If you confirm fuel into the cylinders and those spark events, do your compression or leak down test and let us know what's up.

As long as the timing belt didn't jump a tooth during the install (you turned the cams to meet the gears and not the other way around, right?), it shouldn't be a problem. If the cam gears are on their timing tics and the crank tic is in the area of TDC-3 BTDC while the cams are on time, I don't see how there could possibly be a valvetrain timing issue or bent valves...

Dan brings up a good point on the rockers...are they all where they are supposed to be and opening the valves? What all have you done between last night when it started and today when it didn't?

 

Yes, the rockers were double checked, and they are good. Yes, the cams were moved to meet the gears, gears did not move, and yes, tdc-3 btdc is true. Yes, I held them, it tingled very nicely. I figured if it killed me, my wife would get 300k, and I wouldn't be in the dog house, just a fine spread of ashes in a beautiful river.

 

Just how much did you move the cams to meet the gears.Just wondering???