View Poll Results: RPM raise between shifts?
YES --- Modified ECM (includes all after market EMS and piggyback and flash ECU)
93
30.49%
YES --- Modified clutch (all aftermarket clutch)
71
23.28%
YES --- Modifed MAF (convert to speed density)
18
5.90%
YES --- Modifed BOV (all after market BOV now or tried before)
91
29.84%
Yes --- All stock on above parts
95
31.15%
Not at all (includes stock or modified)
76
24.92%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 305. You may not vote on this poll
RPM raise between shifts
I had it...but i sprayed about 1/2 can of carb cleaner into my intake manifold....strated her up...revved everything out of it and let it warm up for about 10 minutes..and the RPM raising stopped
We've seen this on a 2005 Evo RS with 5000 miles on it as well as a 2006 Evo MR with 1000 miles on it. Easy way to duplicate is to dip into the throttle a bit aggressively around 3000 rpm then let off abruptly around 4000 rpm. The rpm will either hold completely, drop slowly, or drop normally.
-Jon
-Jon
Still there, still haven't investigated further.
Happened once on the track, but pretty dormant overall, in those conditions.
It really sucks when I stamp on the brakes, push in the clutch, rpm hangs, blip the throttle, then release the clutch in my new gear, only to find the rpm 2000 rpm higher than it should have been.
-Jon
Happened once on the track, but pretty dormant overall, in those conditions.
It really sucks when I stamp on the brakes, push in the clutch, rpm hangs, blip the throttle, then release the clutch in my new gear, only to find the rpm 2000 rpm higher than it should have been.
-Jon
03 with JDM DV no rpm raise between shift at wot- to redline or wot to 5k rpm
Added Forge RS and get 400-600 rpm raise between shifts at wot to redline or wot to 5krpm. Tried full soft to 7 clicks closed-no change, tried full hard and rpm jump 800rpm between shifts at any throttle position.
What I have noticed is that as soon I lift throttle and clutch is depressed A/FR jump full rich-full lean and rpms go up.
Very annoying indeed.
Added Forge RS and get 400-600 rpm raise between shifts at wot to redline or wot to 5krpm. Tried full soft to 7 clicks closed-no change, tried full hard and rpm jump 800rpm between shifts at any throttle position.
What I have noticed is that as soon I lift throttle and clutch is depressed A/FR jump full rich-full lean and rpms go up.
Very annoying indeed.
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Monaco
Please try the following:
with the engine warm at 80-82° and idling and all the accessories off(AC,light, ecc..) stop the engine, disconnect the socket cables from the idle stepper motor, restart the car and let idle.
If needed, adjust the air screw on the throttle body and set the idle to 900-950,this should be enought to do not stall the engine even with the AC on,
test your car and you will love your evo again.
Thats works on my evo 9, I hope it works for you also.
Revving It seems produced by the way the stepper motor work, my be is possible also to solve the problem by changing the parameter in the ecu related to the ISCV but it will take more time and skill.
with the engine warm at 80-82° and idling and all the accessories off(AC,light, ecc..) stop the engine, disconnect the socket cables from the idle stepper motor, restart the car and let idle.
If needed, adjust the air screw on the throttle body and set the idle to 900-950,this should be enought to do not stall the engine even with the AC on,
test your car and you will love your evo again.
Thats works on my evo 9, I hope it works for you also.
Revving It seems produced by the way the stepper motor work, my be is possible also to solve the problem by changing the parameter in the ecu related to the ISCV but it will take more time and skill.
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Monaco
Originally Posted by evo3barboost
My Evo does the same thing and I have posted all around the world looking for advice on it.
I would like to ask all experiencing this symptom / problem (as its real and a pain in the a$$) to please reach under the throttle body and remove the connector to the Idle Speed Control Valve (ISCV) small little connector with 6 wires, yes when its disconnected, it will probably stall, but restart and blip the throttle to keep it running, take it for a drive and see what happens, I bet you the problem has gone away, the revs drop normally...I will even put money on it ! just doesnt idle - so the ISCV is sticking in an open position when it should be closing - check if yours gets HOT as well, I am sure it fails due to temparature
Now the problem comes in - a replacement ISCV just fails again, so whats the point of replacing the stock one ? I have been digging around in the Hyundai parts bin as they used the 4g63 as well and the ISCV looks similiar but slightly different check electrical connections etc (its actually a mitsu branded part) so I am hoping for one that has more "toughness" built into it, I think a few members here and on other boards are aware of the trick to get this problem solved but they keep the answer very close to there chest, so its gotta be a simple ' duh why didnt I think of that....'
Please let me know your findings on this one
Cheers
I would like to ask all experiencing this symptom / problem (as its real and a pain in the a$$) to please reach under the throttle body and remove the connector to the Idle Speed Control Valve (ISCV) small little connector with 6 wires, yes when its disconnected, it will probably stall, but restart and blip the throttle to keep it running, take it for a drive and see what happens, I bet you the problem has gone away, the revs drop normally...I will even put money on it ! just doesnt idle - so the ISCV is sticking in an open position when it should be closing - check if yours gets HOT as well, I am sure it fails due to temparature
Now the problem comes in - a replacement ISCV just fails again, so whats the point of replacing the stock one ? I have been digging around in the Hyundai parts bin as they used the 4g63 as well and the ISCV looks similiar but slightly different check electrical connections etc (its actually a mitsu branded part) so I am hoping for one that has more "toughness" built into it, I think a few members here and on other boards are aware of the trick to get this problem solved but they keep the answer very close to there chest, so its gotta be a simple ' duh why didnt I think of that....'
Please let me know your findings on this one
Cheers
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Well i just dropped my car off at the dealer.. They said they're gonna be calling mitsubishi tech support and everything because they dont exactly know what's wrong. The service guy driving the car almost tried to act like nothing was wrong with it... I suggested the idle speed control valve so hopefully they get the car fixed by tonight =/ my dad was like i knew we shouldn't have gotten mitsubishi