View Poll Results: RPM raise between shifts?
YES --- Modified ECM (includes all after market EMS and piggyback and flash ECU)
93
30.49%
YES --- Modified clutch (all aftermarket clutch)
71
23.28%
YES --- Modifed MAF (convert to speed density)
18
5.90%
YES --- Modifed BOV (all after market BOV now or tried before)
91
29.84%
Yes --- All stock on above parts
95
31.15%
Not at all (includes stock or modified)
76
24.92%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 305. You may not vote on this poll
RPM raise between shifts
#1
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RPM raise between shifts
I recently experiences this rpm raise between shifts problem,
i dnot know how many ppl has it on their evo?
there are couple links ppl mention about this before, but still no real solution.
Link1
Link2
in my case,
i dnot think it's ecu problem, my clutch is not slipping (new clutch),
and ppl tried to clean the throttle body... link1 above,
i was thinking about bov, compressor surge might be the case,
but still no hard evidents,
somehow, even it's not the bov, but the aftermarket bov does relate to the problem.
note: my problem was solved by changing back to stock bov.
others have this problem maybe not solved by change bov, and that should be some other issues going on.
Ben
thanks
i dnot know how many ppl has it on their evo?
there are couple links ppl mention about this before, but still no real solution.
Link1
Link2
in my case,
i dnot think it's ecu problem, my clutch is not slipping (new clutch),
and ppl tried to clean the throttle body... link1 above,
i was thinking about bov, compressor surge might be the case,
but still no hard evidents,
somehow, even it's not the bov, but the aftermarket bov does relate to the problem.
note: my problem was solved by changing back to stock bov.
others have this problem maybe not solved by change bov, and that should be some other issues going on.
Ben
thanks
Last edited by Turboholic; Jan 4, 2005 at 06:53 AM.
#4
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Originally Posted by EVOTEXAS
Try letting your foot off the gas faster when putting the clutch in. You're not timing it right.
Agreed.
I think this falls under the same category as "my clutch wore out prematurely" or "I have shifter grind between 1st and 2nd gear" and the numerous other problems out there with this car.
#5
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Originally Posted by EVOTEXAS
Try letting your foot off the gas faster when putting the clutch in. You're not timing it right.
but thanks for the advice,
anyone else?
Last edited by Turboholic; Nov 14, 2004 at 05:10 PM.
#6
This is not an issue with how the car is driven. Turboholic allowed me to drive the car to experience it myself and it really takes you off guard when the car shoots up to redline when you shift at 6K after getting on it.
I had him remove the vacuum line to the BOV and the problem still persists.
To me it seems the only way for the problem to occur is that there is air getting into the intake after the throttle is let go. So, whether this is occuring because the throttle plate is sticking, the throttle cable is sticking or not adjusted properly, I don't know...but to me it doesnt make sense unless air is getting into the intake.
I had him remove the vacuum line to the BOV and the problem still persists.
To me it seems the only way for the problem to occur is that there is air getting into the intake after the throttle is let go. So, whether this is occuring because the throttle plate is sticking, the throttle cable is sticking or not adjusted properly, I don't know...but to me it doesnt make sense unless air is getting into the intake.
#7
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I noticed that you have the Exedy single clutch kit. This comes with a lighter flywheel, right? In my 350Z I had this happen when I had the lightweight JWT flywheel and NISMO clutch kit. It seemed like having the lighter parts would make it keep going for a couple hundred RPMs after I stuck the clutch.
Also, you have a lot of mods. In your installs did you tighten the throttle cable near the throttle body? Perhaps you tightened it to too tight a position and now it holds open a bit?
Also, you have a lot of mods. In your installs did you tighten the throttle cable near the throttle body? Perhaps you tightened it to too tight a position and now it holds open a bit?
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#8
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I have this same problem. You can see my mods below. I have been driving manual tranny cars all my life, granted none of them were this fast, but still I am experienced. I have the same problem. When I am shifting hard and fast I sometimes have this happen to me mostly between 2nd and 3rd and 3rd and 4th. The RPMS will rise even though the clutch is in and I am off the gas. I think it does have soemthing to do with the clutch engagement. Although I cannot decide whether it's engaging too slow or is disengaging too slow. Either way I have checked and it's not my BOV. I was running an HKS SSQ BOV and I was having this problem so I switched to a Forge and I still have the same problem. I even installed a short shifter and bushings and still the problem is there. It really can be a pain in the ***, and I know this can't be good for the car.
The only thing is that it doesn't happen every time..... ??????
The only thing is that it doesn't happen every time..... ??????
#9
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I just want to add that if your clutch engages high, if you don't get almost completely off the gas or even completely off the gas before you even touch the clutch the RPMs will rise. Mine does this too since I adjusted my clutch pedal up and if I release the gas completely before I hit the clutch it does not do it.
Seriously, try letting off the gas completely, then hit the clutch. Do it as two separate processes instead of a fluid motion. If the RPMs still rise then something is weird. If not, it's your driving.
Seriously, try letting off the gas completely, then hit the clutch. Do it as two separate processes instead of a fluid motion. If the RPMs still rise then something is weird. If not, it's your driving.
#10
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I had the RPM rise problem but it went away after I changed clutch and throwout bearing. Things that it was not TPS, BOV and ECU. Problem occured with no flash, flash, Xede and AEM EMS (base map). Droped of my car at and had tham check the TPS sensor plus they found no problem with my car. Currently I have Xede installed. I did have restrictor moved when my clutch was installed. My clutch did grap and disk had plenty of life. The reason clutch was changed was because engament felt weird as if the preasure plate was going bad. Since the problem no longer occurs on my car and the disc was still good I believe it may be the preassure plate or throw out bearing that was defective. The clutch I had installed is the RPS max street clutch which has a Exedy disc. I am using the stock BOV.
Last edited by snoop; Nov 14, 2004 at 08:46 PM.
#11
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I have been having this problem for a while now. I still have not figured out any solution to it on my car as of yet. When I get it back from the shop (I was rear-ended) I will try to remove another washer out of my Turbo XS H34 to see if this helps the problem any. It is rather annoying. I am currently running 4 washers. I tried 6 once and that was way to tight. I dropped it down to 5 for a while but, I still had the same problem. Hopefully going to 3 will help.
#12
Originally Posted by methuselah
This is not an issue with how the car is driven. Turboholic allowed me to drive the car to experience it myself and it really takes you off guard when the car shoots up to redline when you shift at 6K after getting on it.
I had him remove the vacuum line to the BOV and the problem still persists.
I had him remove the vacuum line to the BOV and the problem still persists.
I'd say that you might have a restricted vac line running to your BOV.
Pete
#15
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Originally Posted by 92gsxbaltimore
your not pulling the gas fast enough before you hit the clutch
Last edited by snoop; Nov 15, 2004 at 11:06 AM.