90GSX-03EVO

iTrader: (27)

It's there to prevent excessive stretching of the throttle cable. It can be taken out inadvertedly by kicking it or during vacuuming. Some people have commented in the past that they thought maybe they would actually achieve closer to 100% air flow if they took it out, thinking it would allow the butterfly valve to turn closer to 108 degrees inside the throttle body. In reality, all they would be doing would be stretching the throttle cable. Even if yours is still there, the chance of your cable being stretched or perhaps "sticky" is still there.

With the car off and cooled down, try spraying some silicon lubricant (like WD-40, but silicon) up into the ends of the throttle cable while working it back and forth through it's full range of movement. I'd use a whole can between both ends. It might take a while, but it would be interesting to see if this solves the problem.

Hope this helps.

bpclements

iTrader: (41)

I also notice that when I lift off of the throttle after building a little boost the car will buck kinda roughly. Like the rpm is still trying to climb. I know my BOV is not to tight because it releases as soon as I lift on the throttle. If I slowly get off of the gas and allow the boost to drop to about 5 psi then it is really smoothed. Also, my bov will release as little as 8 in. of vacuum. So, the bov can't be too tight. But I am still going to try and remove another spacer out of my bov to see if that helps. Only thing that I am worried about is that 3 spacers will not be enough and it will allow the bov to leak under wot. If none of this works then I will try an MR valve.

Turboholic

iTrader: (12)

did you or someone else talk about this spay before,
i will try that,

but i used AEM and check my throttle position is correct,
also if it's the problem, would that happens too when the car is idling?
but in my case, it's not doing it when idling.

Turboholic

iTrader: (12)

i had that too when i still have stock pipes w/ stock bov, just little rpm hesitation when it's really cold outside.

that's why i go with whole ic pipes setup with welding flage w/ Tial, but the rpm surge even worse,

as far as i consume, my evo dont like cold winter much.


wonder if anyone here changed their throttle body has this problem,

i remember that last year Work-Axis St. louis meeting has sold many Work's throttle body for evo guys.

eastcoastbumps

Turboholic, have you tried this yet? Or do you guys just ignore the suby owners?

trinydex

iTrader: (12)

you will always get the bucking... it's surge... happens to my car and it's new... on 2nd gear hill climbs or on first gear red line sudden throttle let off. has to do with the violent nature of first and second and the excellent throttle sensitivity.

didn't i already suggest sticky throttle? and didn't you say you cleaned it already? or was that another thread exactly like this one? bleh... if anything you could try checking your ems... could be you didn't smooth out something somewhere.

Turboholic

iTrader: (12)

yes, i need to take the throttle body out and clean it first before further investigation,

no, i am not ignoring the suby guys, but the vacuum line to the wastegate and bov are corrected, this has been done by others' with burchur fmic w/ pipes.
thanks for the suggestion.

Turboholic

iTrader: (12)

well, i dnot have time to clean the throttle body yet,

but i just disable the GM boost soleniod, wide open W/G,
max boost 0.9bar on my boost gauge,

and it's not happening, no rpm surge at all.

i am waiting for help on aem forum.

thanks guys.

methuselah

iTrader: (6)

So all those phone calls finally paid off then?

Turboholic

iTrader: (12)

just partially clear the problem,
still need to make sure that i can run high boost,

talked to you later about it, Seth.

methuselah

iTrader: (6)

Sure thing. You can borrow my air compressor pressure valve for as long as you like.

Soon2BEVO

iTrader: (41)

I had a somewhat similar problem with my 90 Talon AWD, turned out to be the throttle cable sticking! However, I am sure SOME not all people that have this problem w/in this thread is just from driving error, its quite easy to do and you can get into the habit of doing it and not even realizing it!

92gsxbaltimore

iTrader: (1)

ok so try this:
1.) put in 3rd gear, wot till about 5-6k, take your foot off the gas and do not touch the clutch at all, as if you were going to let the car come back down to idle on its own in gear. see what happens.
If the rpms still go up after you release the gas, then it is a prob with your throttle body(ie:shaft seals), or a cbv prob.

2.) again get in 3rd gear give it gas , but NOT IN BOOST, then as soon as you hit 5-6k rpms shift relatively fast. if it doesnt spike the tach, then you have a prob with your clutch linkage.

3.) in neutral, rev it up full throttle to about 5-6k then release the throttle immediatley. if the rpms still go up a ways then your throttle cable is sticking.

Turboholic

iTrader: (12)

1) the gas padel still try to stay and the car will pull a little for me, rpm will raise but not to redline,
i check the throttle body, clean it, still happen,

2) still do that,

3) when i was driving the car, will do, when the car is idling, not.

any idea if the W/G goes wrong will happen like it?

Turboholic

iTrader: (12)

i think that i found the problem,

it should be the aftermarket Blow off value since i only have this problem after i changed the bov but nothing else.

so, i guess my evo just like stock bov, i would try JDM MR BOV and see what happen,

btw, i clean my throttle body, and adjust the throttle cable, they are not the problem at all.

Ben