Hey guys I am planning on doing some mods on my car once I get my car to the dealer for recall work.

My upgrade path consists of super afc II with ams settings and field harness for plug and play when I need to do warranty work, 3" cat(not delete), I already have a 3" hks hi-power stainless catback, and if b&b would replace my rusted noisy downpipe, then I will include that, manual boost controller, and hks suction kit. This should give me some good noticable power.

I only had my evo for 3k miles so Im sorta of a noob as far as modding the car. What else do you guys think I should add to this upgrade path with easy removable of parts in case I need to bring the car to dealer for warranty work.

 

Walbro 255 fuel pump and a reflash. That way you can utilize the upgrades and get more power out of them.

 

Next step (also following our Staged upgrades) would be AMS lower IC pipe kit and AMS fmic upgrade. That would basicly put you at our completed stage 2.

After that, Fuel pump, injectors, cams, and head studs, which would complete stage 3.

If you have any questions regarding upgrades or the proper upgrade path, feel free to give us a call at 847-709-0530 or email at sales@automotosports.com

Thanks,
Eric

 

Cams,HKS F Con V Pro,Pully,titan retiener , valve spring,Injector(At least 680cc),Fuel rail,Fuel Regulatior,Walbro fuel pump,EBC,Intercooler kit,BOV

 

Some of things I read in these threads are just ridiculous.

You don't need a larger IC...unless you are going to a bigger turbo.

You don't need larger injectors...unless you are going to a bigger turbo.

You don't need head studs...unless you're running higher (e.g. >24psi) boost pressures - and you won't be.

You don't need just about anything in Ang Wen Yan's post.

If you want more power and likewise want to keep it discreet, here's what you should consider...

3" turbo-back exhaust setup. The larger cat and cat-back alone are not enough to get everything you can from the exhaust. Whether you do it half-way or all the way should make no difference to the dealer, and since you cannot hide any of it, you may as well do ALL of it. I've not heard of a dealer attempting to negate warranty work on the count of an exhaust system.

The 255lph fuel pump is worthwhile, inexpensive, and fixes the only weak link in the fueling system. With this, your fueling system is good for a hypothetical 350whp or so.

Don't expect much from the aftermarket intake. The factory intake is not a restriction, and there are cars running 11sec E.T.'s with it.

The safc and MBC are ok if you like fiddling with it, but adhere to what Corey said above...without a means of recalibrating certain pertinent issues in the ECU, you will be limited. A reflash is invisible to the dealer, but not to the dyno.

Finally, another 'invisible' mod that is worthwhile would be HKS 264 cams. The car will idle like stock, but can pick up quite a bit of power with proper tuning (e.g. reflash).

 

all of that sounds awesome, but money is a big problem. with me. well what would be the best full exhaust? i really don't care how loud it is as long as it sounds good.
i know that HKS is a really good brand, what about there exhaust i have never seen any specs on there exhaust before just wondering.
thanks
james

 

You're not likely to see a significant power difference from various makes of 3" systems, so pick one. You will see a difference in the sound, but that's unimportant to you.

IMO, where money is a concern, the best 3 things you can possibly do would be exhaust, HKS 264 cams, and a good reflash. You'll almost certainly get more from these 3 items than you will from any other 3 upgrades out there (not counting bigger turbos and such of course).

 

LOL!!! that really cracked me up ....

 

Yes, our Malaysian friend Ang Wen Yan's post reads like a Christmas wishlist gone insane. I suspect he was foaming at the mouth as he typed it.

 

Ang Wen Yan is only Ten years old and lives in Taiwan....if u didn't know, i'm surprised a 10 year old would know that stuff..

 

Dyno tested in house with a stock turbo. Horsepower went from 365 to 385! That is the AMS FMIC.

At 23 PSI the stock FMIC droped 3 psi from end tank to end tank. With the AMS FMIC it only droped .5 psi from end tank to end tank. That alone will gain hp.

 

Ok, was this before/after with the larger IC alone (e.g. no piping done at the same time),and on an EVO? Was the car properly tuned both before and after the test? I am asking because I've noted an example of which I am somewhat personally familiar that was at the 350whp level, added this very same IC, and recorded <5whp difference.

 

It was just the FMIC added and yes it was tuned before and after the test. What boost level was the car at? Was it checked for boost leaks before dynoing?

 

I don't have the boost chart handy, but both A/F and boost were logged, and AFAIK, there were no leaks. To the best of my recollection, the boost peaked at 23psi and tapered from there (as expected with the factory turbo).

 

I agree with everything you said except for the above. It has been my personal experience that even tuning to a conservative 11.2-11.5 AFR with a 3" TB exhaust, 264 cams and running at 20-21psi of boost that you can very easily see injector duty cycles in excess of 85%-90%. As some may know, running injectors upwards of 85% runs the risk of an injector going static. It is my understanding that when an injector goes static it's flow rate is basically halved. An instant lean condition will occur in that cylinder and it will 'grenade'. IMHO, if you're going through the trouble of tuning for a larger fuel pump and other mods, you might as well spring for the injectors.