rt turbo

iTrader: (4)

i went by the dealer to get the rod bearings for my evo and i gave them my VIN to find the specific marked bearings that are balanced for my exact motor. they could not find any info on the mark but they said it shows up one part number whihc they claim to be the right one for my specific motor. is this correct? will my VIN pull up the specificly marked bearings that are in my motor now? they are like 16$ a piece or so. if you dont think the VIN would find the specific bearing, what number whould i look for?

also, i was going to buy lifters, they are 45$ a piece!!! that is what they said anyways, is this even possible? shouldnt lifters be like 10$ a piece or so?

VTECH8TR

iTrader: (70)

What happened man you blew your engine or something. $45.00 a lifter is RAPE.

rt turbo

iTrader: (4)

nope, factory motor is fine. im building it to handle 500+ whp reliably. i agree with the overpricing, anyone know where to get a set for normal pricing. i dunno, 45$ just cant be right. thats ludicrous.

TomeiEvo

Get a set of Clevite rod bearings for the 2G style motor, they are exactly the same and you can probably get a set of 4 for the USD 45.
I've seen a few done and mine is as well. Cheers..

DynoFlash

iTrader: (91)

The way you select the proper bearings is to read the numbers off the crank and block and use the chart in the shop manual to select the right size

Of course - thats just a starting point - thereafter you need to measure everything very carefully to verify and lastly use pasti gauge

TomeiEvo

There are micro fit bearings specifically for the main bearings located on the bottom of the block where the oil pan gasket sits on. Its in a series of 0,1 or 2 and is meant to reference the micro fit bearings that Mitsubishi carries for all their engines. With those numbers and the paint color on the end of the crank white, brown or no color, a match will be found. But there isn't one for the conrods.. for those any bearings are generally ok.

badlooser

iTrader: (23)

Mitsubishi makes 3 different color codes for bearings for the evo. How do you want to build the motor loose (more hp) tight(longevity) however you choose make sure you get them coated. I used www.calicocoatings.com the are very good I have used them in the past. The bearings will take more abuse a lotof race teams use them. I would also coat the pistons with www.swaintech.com s gold coat on top and their friction coat on the skirts.

rt turbo

iTrader: (4)

im using buschur rods and pistons because the rods are made to accept the evo bearings. im not going to take the crank out so the main bearings will stay. il just have to wait until i open up the motor i guess. car will be down a day to 2 more then .

btw, where can i find a "hillbilly honer"? this is a piece that breaks the glaze on the cylinder walls. it also needs a lubricant too. anyone know?

rt turbo

iTrader: (4)

yes, were ganna measure the bore to make sure all is well and to properly file the rings. i want a tight fit for longevity.

TomeiEvo

U're right. The paint color on the crank is the indicator of the bearings to use. Sorry I didn't take notice of that. Thanks for clarifying.

BlackEVO

Ah, select-fit bearings What a wonderful thing when doing all new bearings (rod & main). To the best of my knowledge, no factory crank has any color marks anywhere....only factory service cranks do (ie. factory replacements purchased through ). This can be confusing since one of the "color" options is "none" on the crank color chart. The only way to know for sure is to measure the journals and verify the correct size.

As mentioned earlier, the crank "color" is pretty much significant just for the main bearings, not the rods. Just measure the rod journals and select the appropriate size bearing from the chart. The stock rod bearings MAY have their ID # stamped on them, so when you pull them, keep them in order (put each in separate baggies with the cyl # written on it) and you can look up the corresponding replacements after the fact if the #s are on them and know which journal they go on.

FYI, the #s stamped on the bottom of the block, there is one set of 5 and one set of 4. The set of 5 are the main journal bearings and the set of 4 are the bore sizes, NOT the rod bearings as one might assume. I don't know if the rod bearing #s are stamped on the factory crank (they and the main bearing #s supposedly are on a replacement crank).

Not sure what you mean by "hillbilly honer", but probably the 3-block type. Try Sears or Lisle (local auto store). Get some plasti-gauge while you're out to check the bearing clearances.