I have the NX Ntercooler setup and teh butt dyno feels no gaines...I dunno maybe i need to tune it for it to produce numbers.

 

DSM Motorsport, if I do decide to use it, should I be running the same stock iridium plugs or should I switch to cooler copper plugs?

 

The intercooler sprayer is bogus. If you are going to spend that much money on the set, just go direct feed. Better yet, just upgrade to a 20g from BR and there is no need for NO2.

 

I run a 50 shot on my evo7 with great results.
It feels really good too.
with a 3inch exhaust, EBC at 20psi, apexi safc,hks twin disc and the 50 shot I did a 11.7 in the quarter.This was at night drags though. But still a great time for the mods i had.
Just hope that your clutch does not slip while spraying though.....it would damage your pistons

 

how would clutch sliping (while spraying) damage your pistons?

 

the intercooler nitrous spray is supposed to be used in between drag runs. it's not supposed to be sprayed while driving. and that's what i read on the ad for the product.

 

evosevengsr, ah see yuh ah Trini too just like me.
So a 50 shot would be the maximum I can use, I was thinking about using a 35 shot just to be safe.
What type of spark plugs are you using for nitrous?

 

I use standard NGK BPR7es plugs in all the DSMs and evo's we work on. These plugs are cheap and perform excelent. On a small nitrous setup..up to 75 hp..bpr7es plugs work fine. If your going to use alot of nitrous the next range colder plug would be smart the 8 or the use the BR7ES non projected nose plug.

 

Thanks DSM.

 

That's not true. The nitrous can easily find its way to the air filter seeing as the proximity of it is relatively close to the intercooler. Someone did a test, it might have been Buschur, where they replaced the nitrous with CO2 and the car stumbled due to ingesting the CO2 through the intake.

 

Yes, but he did not do that test on an EVO.

 

True.

With an intercooler sprayer you will deff. take in some n2o which is part of the reason for the HP increase.

I've been using n2o for a couple of years now with excellent results, the only downside I see is the cost to refill the bottle. I don't plan to put it on the EVO but I would still recomend it to anyone. When used correctly its cheap reliable HP, but when used incorrectly it can be very expensive!

The main thing you have to remember is that the additional power doesn't come from the n2o, it comes from the FUEL!

 

If i was going n2o over co2 i would run a 35 shot tuned in. Safe Co2 might not do shizit but mabey it will look good?.....

 

Well here are the things I have used in past nitrous systems. I recomend ALL of these, I tend to fall on the more conservative side of things though..

Arming Switch. Just like it sounds and comes with any basic No2 kit.. It's just an off on switch to activate your Nitrous.. I do not recomend an 'on demand' ala Fast and Furious switch.

WOT Switch.. Once you have activated your No2, this switch only allows the Spraying to take place at Wide Open Throttle. It's a mechanical switch, usually installed so that it only trips when you have the gas pedal to the floor.

Window Switches. These allow you to select at what RPMS No2 will be switched on and off... ONCE you have activated the No2 system AND have achieved WOT these switches determine when the No2 is sprayed. The units usually come with RPM 'Pills' that allow you to select the 'WIndow'. FOr example you can have a 3,000RPM pill for activation and a 5500 Pill for deactivation. Basically even at WOT the No2 will ONLY spray btwn the chosen RPMS. These can be a LIFE saver if you Mis-shift etc. Even if you miss a shift and rev the hell out of the car the No2 will not spray outside of the selected window.

Boost/Timing Retard controller. MSD makes a good unit.. it has a cabin installed black box that lets you pull back timing and or boost when you are spraying.

Fuel Pressure Switch. This automatically turns off the delivery of No2 if your Fuel pressure drops below a set value.. Again a real life saver if you miss-shift etc..

No2 Pressure gauge. Tells you how much pressure is in the No2 system. Essential to have the right PSI for maximum performance

Bottle Warmer. Warming the No2 gets it to the proper PRessure.. see above

Remote Bottle Opener. Depends if you plan to only run at the track with the No2 or if you plan to run it on the street from time to time.. Wether it is dumb/safe whatever to run N02 on the street is up to you. You do not want to run around for long periods of time with your No2 Bottle 'open' but not being used. If you want to run it on the street, any 'spur' of them moment situations can be addressed without having to stop and get out of the car to open the bottle..

A/f Ratio Gauge-- WIDEBAND that is... You NEED to keep an eye on your AFR when you are spraying, this also allows you to tune your boost/timing retard for most performance AND safety.

Of course if you can get a 2 stage ECU flash, that would be good too.. I don't know if any vendors on here offer it, but I know you could get it with the old HONDATA systems.. basically it's TWO seperate ignition, boost, fuel maps on the same ecu that can be toggled btwn... stage 1 no Nitrous flip a switch, stage 2 with nitrous.. you get the idea..

ONLY use at LEAST a wet kit, better still would be Direct Port, but for a 50 shot, DP might be overkill..

 

^^^ Oh well, I guess nitrous isn't a cheap hp upgrade. Might as well spring for the big turbo upgrade.