New HKS 280 duration camshafts for Evo8!!!
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New HKS 280 duration camshafts for Evo8!!!
Has anybody know when Hks will be releasing their new 280 camshaft set for the evo 8??? What are the benifits of these cams vs. 272's and 264's cams? Will you need to upgrade your valvetrain, retainers and springs? I'm thinking these cams must be used with a turbo upgrade.
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Yes, these cams would offer more lift so they would produce more top-end power. I'm guessing to fully take advantage of these cams you would have to have some serious modifications done like a bigger turbo, port and polished head, new valvetrain, etc.
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I believe XS Engineering has some 280s coming out soon also. I would think that headwork would be required to take full advantage of these...although XS said they would not run anything smaller than a 272, so if the cost isn't prohibitive the 280s might be the better deal if you expect future upgrades. I wonder if the idle will "suffer" dramatically. Personally, I like a "lopey" idle.
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yes your idle will suck unless you get rid of the MAF & add map sensor & a stroker kit. otherwise you're wasting your money. that's why i'm not buying cams until i get my turbo & stroker.
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Originally Posted by RSGuy
Yes, these cams would offer more lift so they would produce more top-end power. I'm guessing to fully take advantage of these cams you would have to have some serious modifications done like a bigger turbo, port and polished head, new valvetrain, etc.
#10
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I'd stay away from something like this.. As far as I can tell, all HKS cam's use the same overall lift, but vary cam duration.. The problem with 280's is you have even more cam overlap and duration, which means its great for high RPM and getting lots of air into the engine from higher boost, but unfortunately the additional cam overlap will result in a very poor idle, low RPM contamination of the intake charge (Hence less efficient combustion and less power) due to its overlap additionally you end up blowing alot of your fuel and boost out your tailpipe at anything under 5000rpm.
With the stock MAF sensor, you may have alot of trouble getting the car to idle at all without idling the engine at 1200rpm (typical for cams anyway)
Remember, the lower your idle vacuum is, the harder it is to "Draw air" through your MAF sensor therefore you rely more on tricking sensors to get an idle..
I can see why they limit the max lift and go with longer duration, but for a good street cam, you have to consider an upgraded valvetrain (Springs and retainers) and higher lift short duration cams, they will produce more lower RPM torque, but still make large power gains at higher RPM..
Overall its a compromise, but I'll hazard a guess to say that most people who still drive their cars every day will not be happy with 280 duration cams... In cruising the car just loads up, stumbles, at idle it has maf problems and is prone to stalling, you definitely would need to consider using speed density or at least use an ECU/Piggyback that is capable of more granular idle control.. and swapping to speed density introduces its own set of tuning problems not to mention drivability quirks just being compounded.
Be careful what you wish for.. letting the genie out of the bottle doesn't always grant you the wishes you want.. Sometimes less is more.
With the stock MAF sensor, you may have alot of trouble getting the car to idle at all without idling the engine at 1200rpm (typical for cams anyway)
Remember, the lower your idle vacuum is, the harder it is to "Draw air" through your MAF sensor therefore you rely more on tricking sensors to get an idle..
I can see why they limit the max lift and go with longer duration, but for a good street cam, you have to consider an upgraded valvetrain (Springs and retainers) and higher lift short duration cams, they will produce more lower RPM torque, but still make large power gains at higher RPM..
Overall its a compromise, but I'll hazard a guess to say that most people who still drive their cars every day will not be happy with 280 duration cams... In cruising the car just loads up, stumbles, at idle it has maf problems and is prone to stalling, you definitely would need to consider using speed density or at least use an ECU/Piggyback that is capable of more granular idle control.. and swapping to speed density introduces its own set of tuning problems not to mention drivability quirks just being compounded.
Be careful what you wish for.. letting the genie out of the bottle doesn't always grant you the wishes you want.. Sometimes less is more.
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The longer the cam duration, the rougher the idle regardless if you're using a MAF or not. Tuning the idle A/F is useful, but it won't completely eliminate the lope.
The HKS 280 profile is designed the way it is because it allows the user to retain the stock valve springs.
These cams will not be particularly useful to anyone running the stock turbo. The same can almost be said for the 272 set. The 280 set may be useful to someone running 9000-10,000rpm with enough turbo to make that power range work.
In short, bigger isn't always better, and that certainly applies where cam specs are concerned.
The HKS 280 profile is designed the way it is because it allows the user to retain the stock valve springs.
These cams will not be particularly useful to anyone running the stock turbo. The same can almost be said for the 272 set. The 280 set may be useful to someone running 9000-10,000rpm with enough turbo to make that power range work.
In short, bigger isn't always better, and that certainly applies where cam specs are concerned.
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