So you wanted to know how heavy is the AC
Originally Posted by 2k4EvoVIII
The first plug with green insert is the A/C Clutch connector switch which when you hit the button in the car it sends a signal to the compressor to turn on. The second connection with the brown plug is the High/Low Pressure Switch. Which basically regulats how much coolant passes to the compressor which regulates how cold the air is when it enters the car
http://www.familycar.com/Classroom/ac1.htm
well, removing the AC sounds cool for most people, but to save 30ish lbs? why not toss the passenger seat? (or sell it... ) what about taking and just removing the belt and getting an RS belt? would that make any difference? isnt the AC and pwr stearing belts connected to the crank pully? so removing them (AC and PWR stearing belts) yield more power? i chopped the pwr stearing belt on my h22 prelude and saw a slight difference...
Originally Posted by mlevo
just wanna ask you a silly thing, which is that why is the exhaunt pipe wraped with cottonm material ? does that work more effectively?
That's heat wrap. It keeps the heat down inside the engine bay and quiets the exhaust system.
Downside is if it gets wet, it can promote rust.
Ok guys,
Here is my review with no AC. I drove the car for 10 miles only but I am ready to put small review here.
The car feels lighter, the front feels lighter and the car feels more responsive on low RPM. I could be imagining things now but I felt it lighter and the string was more responsive and accurate around turns (weird).
The car felt faster but i am not sure as it felt lighter (I don’t know how to explain it)
I will be driving it today for 30 miles and I will test it more and more.
It took some time because my turbo stud broke and I had to machine it. So much heat was developed that everything was stuck together.
My ATP kit is not an ATP kit anymore so much modification was done to that kit to my specs and my ideas that made it different. The DP has different welds on (thanks to my master welder who can weld aluminum while eating cake) I have different manifold and different under pipes as well. The only thing that remains now is the turbo (my spooler).
I will have a bigger review later on and will see the results when my car is on the dyno at dyno4mance
Here is my review with no AC. I drove the car for 10 miles only but I am ready to put small review here.
The car feels lighter, the front feels lighter and the car feels more responsive on low RPM. I could be imagining things now but I felt it lighter and the string was more responsive and accurate around turns (weird).
The car felt faster but i am not sure as it felt lighter (I don’t know how to explain it)
I will be driving it today for 30 miles and I will test it more and more.
It took some time because my turbo stud broke and I had to machine it. So much heat was developed that everything was stuck together.
My ATP kit is not an ATP kit anymore so much modification was done to that kit to my specs and my ideas that made it different. The DP has different welds on (thanks to my master welder who can weld aluminum while eating cake) I have different manifold and different under pipes as well. The only thing that remains now is the turbo (my spooler).
I will have a bigger review later on and will see the results when my car is on the dyno at dyno4mance
Originally Posted by Az3ar
Ok guys,
Here is my review with no AC. I drove the car for 10 miles only but I am ready to put small review here.
The car feels lighter, the front feels lighter and the car feels more responsive on low RPM. I could be imagining things now but I felt it lighter and the string was more responsive and accurate around turns (weird).
The car felt faster but i am not sure as it felt lighter (I don’t know how to explain it)
I will be driving it today for 30 miles and I will test it more and more.
It took some time because my turbo stud broke and I had to machine it. So much heat was developed that everything was stuck together.
My ATP kit is not an ATP kit anymore so much modification was done to that kit to my specs and my ideas that made it different. The DP has different welds on (thanks to my master welder who can weld aluminum while eating cake) I have different manifold and different under pipes as well. The only thing that remains now is the turbo (my spooler).
I will have a bigger review later on and will see the results when my car is on the dyno at dyno4mance
Here is my review with no AC. I drove the car for 10 miles only but I am ready to put small review here.
The car feels lighter, the front feels lighter and the car feels more responsive on low RPM. I could be imagining things now but I felt it lighter and the string was more responsive and accurate around turns (weird).
The car felt faster but i am not sure as it felt lighter (I don’t know how to explain it)
I will be driving it today for 30 miles and I will test it more and more.
It took some time because my turbo stud broke and I had to machine it. So much heat was developed that everything was stuck together.
My ATP kit is not an ATP kit anymore so much modification was done to that kit to my specs and my ideas that made it different. The DP has different welds on (thanks to my master welder who can weld aluminum while eating cake) I have different manifold and different under pipes as well. The only thing that remains now is the turbo (my spooler).
I will have a bigger review later on and will see the results when my car is on the dyno at dyno4mance

Originally Posted by JustDSM
Still using the ATP turbine housing?
yup still using it. I don’t see it restrictive but thats my opinion. At least I don’t see it hurting my level of power. However, I am sure it will hurt some power at the 500WHP which I don’t want to reach anyways. The machine shop loved the turbine housing and thought it was very nice pc. Anyways here are some pics..
Az3ar,
I sincerely hope you lay down some smack at the TT dyno day. Hopefully we will see slightly better spool than the 3037. I predict on 100+ octane unleaded, you will break the 400 mark. My prediction: 405whp/385 torque. Good luck. Your engine bay looks nice.
I sincerely hope you lay down some smack at the TT dyno day. Hopefully we will see slightly better spool than the 3037. I predict on 100+ octane unleaded, you will break the 400 mark. My prediction: 405whp/385 torque. Good luck. Your engine bay looks nice.
Originally Posted by Smogrunner
Az3ar,
I sincerely hope you lay down some smack at the TT dyno day. Hopefully we will see slightly better spool than the 3037. I predict on 100+ octane unleaded, you will break the 400 mark. My prediction: 405whp/385 torque. Good luck. Your engine bay looks nice.
I sincerely hope you lay down some smack at the TT dyno day. Hopefully we will see slightly better spool than the 3037. I predict on 100+ octane unleaded, you will break the 400 mark. My prediction: 405whp/385 torque. Good luck. Your engine bay looks nice.
Thanks buddy
after all you are the one who walked me to Shiv door and I love his tune. I am very very happy with it as it lasted even after all my changes and gas octane and so on. I am going to the one in GA at dyno4mance as I love to get my car tuned at DD dyno
. We wont be seeing 400WHP on that dyno for sure my friend
. I am hoping for the 350WHP on DD with C16 and the 310 on pump.
You guys who live in moderate climates can take out the A/C anytime. I bet if you lived in Atlanta, Columbia, Savanah, Miami, B'ham or any other city in the South, you'd be sorry as hell at least 9 months out of the year


