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Valve springs and retainer install

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Old Feb 15, 2005, 08:12 PM
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Valve springs and retainer install

has anyone installed a upgraded valve train themselves? or know if any speciality tools are needed? my hks 280's, aem gears, head studs and crower upgraded valve train should will be here tomorrow and i will be doing the install with my mechanic buddy. thanks justin
Old Feb 15, 2005, 08:16 PM
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You will definently need a valve spring compresser. The timing belt tensioner tool is also nice. You did get a headgasket right?
Old Feb 15, 2005, 08:19 PM
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i have the timing belt tool and will the spring compresser for autozone work? also, why do i need a head gasket?
Old Feb 15, 2005, 08:25 PM
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You will be removing the head. I would recomend a valve grind gasget set. That will give you the manifod gasgets as well as valve cover and head gasgets. I have a valve depressor that looks like a large "C" clamp. It presses on the valve head and the retainer.

Last edited by WildRice; Feb 15, 2005 at 08:31 PM.
Old Feb 15, 2005, 08:33 PM
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crap, i didnt know the head had to come off.
Old Feb 15, 2005, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by WildRice
You will be removing the head.
You don't have to remove the head to do valve springs and retainers. You can use two methods. One involves a fitting that goes into the spark plug hole and you use a compressor to bring the compression up to around 180psi and that will hold the valves up when you are compressing the springs and pulling off the keepers. The problem with this method is that a compressor that puts out 180psi is not cheap and not everywhere. I have a compressor but it doesn't make past 140psi.

The second method involves feeding rope down the spark plug hole and then putting that piston at tdc. The rope will hold the valve in place. Then you use your overhead valve spring compressor to compress the spring remove the keepers and put the new ones back on.

This is of course after you have already removed the valve cover, cam gears, cams and lifters.

The rope method works and so does the compressor method. Either one you choose make sure to stuff all the oil holes with papertowels because it would suck to drop something down there, like a keeper, retainer, bolt, etc..... You get the point.

Good luck

Last edited by strongbear0; Feb 15, 2005 at 08:39 PM.
Old Feb 15, 2005, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by BSREVOLUTION
crap, i didnt know the head had to come off.
It doesn't.
Old Feb 15, 2005, 08:41 PM
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It does not HAVE too. You will need to get a different kind of valvespring compressor, and compress the cylinder with air to suspend the valves.

[EDIT] I didn't see the post above, explaining (in greater detail even) what I mentioned.. [/EDIT]
Old Feb 15, 2005, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by BSREVOLUTION
crap, i didnt know the head had to come off.
You can do the valve springs/retainers with the head on car and you do need a
special retainer/valve keeper install tool,but it is a PITA if you have never done valve seals installs on car before you should just take head off to do them as the keepers are small and fly really far when things dont go as planned(lol) and are very difficult to find.
Old Feb 15, 2005, 08:43 PM
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It does not have to come off just like strongbear said, but it is a real PIA. When I installed my springs and retainers in my head before I took it off for a complete head build I used the compressed air method. It worked just fine until one of the keepers got loose and fell down one of the little oil return holes. Then it was not fun any more.
Old Feb 15, 2005, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by joeycoates
It does not have to come off just like strongbear said, but it is a real PIA. When I installed my springs and retainers in my head before I took it off for a complete head build I used the compressed air method. It worked just fine until one of the keepers got loose and fell down one of the little oil return holes. Then it was not fun any more.
Yup that's a *****. That's when a roll of paper towels comes in real handy. If you stuff all the holes nothing can go down, and a telescoping magnet comes in real handy too. If you do stuff all the holes with paper towels make sure to make the wods big enough so they don't get oil soaked and fall down the hole and make sure you remove them when you are done.
Old Feb 15, 2005, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by strongbear0
You don't have to remove the head to do valve springs and retainers. You can use two methods. One involves a fitting that goes into the spark plug hole and you use a compressor to bring the compression up to around 180psi and that will hold the valves up when you are compressing the springs and pulling off the keepers. The problem with this method is that a compressor that puts out 180psi is not cheap and not everywhere. I have a compressor but it doesn't make past 140psi.

The second method involves feeding rope down the spark plug hole and then putting that piston at tdc. The rope will hold the valve in place. Then you use your overhead valve spring compressor to compress the spring remove the keepers and put the new ones back on.

This is of course after you have already removed the valve cover, cam gears, cams and lifters.

The rope method works and so does the compressor method. Either one you choose make sure to stuff all the oil holes with papertowels because it would suck to drop something down there, like a keeper, retainer, bolt, etc..... You get the point.

Good luck
the rope method is the one i would probably have to do, is this a large rope that is used? could you please tell me more? thanks justin
Old Feb 15, 2005, 08:53 PM
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Ya i have. You dont need to remove the head if you dont want but it would make the job allot easier. You will need a valvespring compressor but i had to make my own becouse of the way the valve springs sit into the head they are really deep in there and most universal wont work. They will compress the spring but you wont be able to get the clip off. The head gasket i would say you should get another one even though its not necessary since we run metal head the gaskets but they are cheap enough that you should just get another one. If you do decide to leave the head on all you have to do is pressurize the cylinders as you remove the springs so the valves dont drop. Not to hard but still i would recommend just pulling the head. Also while your at it i would think about pocket porting the valve ports and also a good 5 angle valve job. I was amazed at how bad the pockets were when i seen them. Just a thought

Chris
Old Feb 15, 2005, 08:57 PM
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thanks chris, the 5 angle valve job will have to wait till next time. so if my buddy has a big enough compressor, we just need the right fitting and pressurize the cyclinder over 180?
Old Feb 15, 2005, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by BSREVOLUTION
thanks chris, the 5 angle valve job will have to wait till next time. so if my buddy has a big enough compressor, we just need the right fitting and pressurize the cyclinder over 180?
Ya i understand. But you will have to tell me how you like those 280's. Tonight i just made a video of my Tomei 260's with 11.5 and then tore apart the engine becouse my 280's will be here tomorrow. Then i will make a video of those and compare. So look for a thread soon that will show the following

HKS 272/272 Setup
Tomei 260 Procams Setup
HKS 280/280 Setup

That way people can finally see how each of these cams idle. For some reason to most people that is a big thing in there decision. To me i just want the most power and personally i love the loppey sound but hey to each his own. Well i got way off topic! SORRY! Good luck and keep us posted!

Chris


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