man that sounds mean!!!

 

I used the stock downpipe. I had a 3" elbow piping fabricated to bolt onto the stock o2 housing, the other side of the elbow pipe is welded to a 3" Y-pipe. The 3" Y-pipe takes the place of the beginning part of the stock downpipe. At the end of the Y-pipe, it tapers down and is welded to the rest of the stock downpipe.

There is no point in spending a lot of money for an aftermarket 3" downpipe if you just plan to cut it all up to fabricate this mod. Just get a trusted welder or performance shop to make you the parts you need. If you want the same setup as me, I can maybe have the same exact piping fabricated for you, just shoot me a PM.

 

nice man...ATP also has one where its boost activated...i'm thinking of trying that one out...

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=BCS

 

I was also looking at that unit, but decided it wasn't for me. The disadvantage of being boost actuated is the fact that you have to be generating X amount of boost for the valve to open... and even then, it'll take a good 2-6 seconds for the valve to open (depending on the torque motor)... this takes away the huge advantage the amazingly faster spool from vacuum of a button activated valve. Also, having the valve open and close everytime you wanna be in boost slightly can wear out the motor faster, contribute to over-torque'n the motor, and be damn right annoying (we all know how easy it is to boost on the highway with very little throttle).

That's just my 2 cents...

 

Wasn't there a thread looking for the definition of a "sleeper"?

Nice setup.

 

I would believe while you have no issues with fumes, you may have an issue with carbon monoxide. Can't you install a 90 deg pipe on that dump?

 

Can you take a picture of how low it hangs? Preferably from the front of the car. I'd like to see how low it hangs.

 

I'll post pictures with the car parallel to the ground sooner or later.

I was thinking of putting any type of piping off of the valve to direct the exhaust gases away from the middle of the vehicle... however, with my car being lowered, fear of scraping against any type of speed bumps caused me to stray away from this idea. Besides, I only open the dump valve when racing, not daily driving.

 

Nice, but it's properly called "an exhaust cutout" -- these have been around forever -- used to be a cable to pull to open it and now we have electronics to do it for us

 

I have had mine on the car since Dec 2003. Works pretty good with a little exhaust leak. Be prepared to have flames shoot out your cutout (depends on how rich you are running though)

Check out these links:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=73344

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=73034

BTW I ran 12.5@111 with the e-cutout, cams, SAFCII and a drop in air filter..............not bad for a $1k worth of mods.

Mario

 

Very nice

 

FWIW,there has been threads about these in the past and their location is very important as where this one is located is not good unless you are using an AEM EMS and have knock feedback Off,as the sound from the open exhaust will cause your knock sensor to pull lots of timing when using stock ecu,thus you Lose power as has been proven on the dyno,and we are talking alot of power,not just a few H.P. Like I first posted,FWIW.

 

So which cutout would you recommend?

 

And where is the ideal location to put it?

 

I was thinking about doing that...