My suggestion send bak the ecu so I can take out the little bit of fuel in the rich area through the middle of the power band - no charge. Then re-dyno it and try turning the boost up slightly. I have seen many examples where a low reading boost gauge keeps the power down a bit. I easy method to test it would be to plumb in a second gauge and test you know is accurate and test them to see if they read the same.

Main thing is your curve is smooth and knock free. Finding the missing power should be easy.

 

would there be any problems with me fixing the A/F with my AFC II.....or with that mess with the flash?

 

Just to follow up on this situation, it seems I must know a little bit of what I am talking about here as today I invited Mr. DKMikeymike here to the shop for a free dyno session to get to the bottom of where his missing whp was

What we found was that his DEFI gauge was reading 3 psi low

So when he was on HIS dyno - (which read very close to my dyno) he was reading 19 on his gauge but it was really making 16 psi of boost

I did not DO ANY TUNING ON HIS CAR WHAT SO EVER

Here is his dyno sheets

The lower one is with an indicated 19 psi on his Defi gauge - actual boost 16 psi

The higher one is with an indicated 25 psi on his defi gauge - actual boost 22 psi peak fallingto 20 psi at red line

Again - all pulls are with the through the mail reflash I sold him




BTW - the oscilation in thsi gentleman's boost curve is prob due to his use of the Hallman RX MBX which comes with the light weight plastic ball. I only sell the Hallman Pro with steel ball. On a high boosting car like the evo the Pro version is the better choice as it will maintain a more steady and smoother boost curve. The lightweight platic ball moves too quick and causes the boost to flutter.

 

Man what the hell is wrong with DEFI? The first one I ordered was not sitting at 0psi, but 1.5psi. I had to send it back. My one now APPEARS TO BE OK? But I guess Im going to have to test it now.

Defi UNRELIABLEEEEEEE

 

So is there a way to test the accuracy of the Defi's?

 

In this case at the dyno shop we have a known accurate calibration gauge which we hook up in tandom to test the accuraccy of boost settings. In this case it was almost totally unncessary as I could tell just from looking at his original dyno sheet I posted that his boost was too low.

This kind of situation really bothers me when people make these kind of posts complaining about my tuning. Its hard to defend myself and rationalize with people who seem to be quick to blame the tuning. Cars are complex mechanical devices and there are many variables which must be considered when troubleshooting low power issues or driveability problems.

In this case I feel somewhat vinidcated but I find that often the posting of the cause and solution of these problems gains less attention that the original post.

I am glad that we could show the customer that his tune was good and that his car was making good power. Although, I wonder what that says about the dyno shop he was using and their skills ?

 

Just curious, which Defi gauge was he using?

 

The BF electric one - which is also the same guage I used to use in my car and which also proved to be inaccurate

 

Just curious as to why you feel the need to dyno in 3rd gear as opposed to 4th being that 4th is closer to a 1:1 ratio. Also, don't be so quick to quick to jump down Mike's throat.

How was he suppoesed to know his Defi was reading low????? From eveything he knew, it looked like a tuning problem, nothing more....

 

since the major mod here would be the s-afc, you will need a reflash to adjust. an evo with similar mods here in AZ without a flash put down 280whp on a dyno dynamics dyno the most stingy of all using 91 octane. on the same dyno 6 months later, another evo with no afc & a base dynoflash with the buschur tbe, a guy put down 308whp at 24psi running 96 octane. for comparison, my '03 put down 225whp on that dyno with just a catback, dp, & filter + it was running real bad too. what kind of gas are you using?

 

i always run 94......everything on my AFC is a 0 and i don't need it im going to sell it.......AL said if i got a custom tune i could have about 10-15 more WHP.....I'm going to wait for Cams then i'm going to get a custom tune..........I AM VERY HAPPY WITH MY MAIL IN FLASH..........before i went to Proven i felt like i was wasteing money on mods but after AL showed me how off my Defi BF boost gauge was it is like night and day.......

I just wanted to thank AL again........he is a standup guy that goes out of his way to make the customer happy.........the guys a Proven are topnotch.....I'm very happy........

If you ever have a problem with your car after a Dynoflash call Al and wait for him to call you back.......i was having problems and i was trying to get 1 answer from 10 different places........give Al a chance he knows his ****...

AL will be doing all the tuneing for my evo from now on but for now its time to get a new boost gauge..

 

The reason why we choose 3rd gear is becuase the dyno only measures the speed at which a steel drum is rotated by the wheels. The dyno does not know which gear you are in - only how fast the drums accelerate.

I choose 3rd on evos becuase the legnth of the pull in 3rd gear is very close to the legnth of the pull you see in 4th gear on the road - closest approximation.

If you dyno in 4th on a dyno jet you get the collant temps boiling as the legnth of the pull is way TOO long and has no relationship to any real world driving condition that you may encounter - except maybe driving up a steep hill

 

Thanks

 

Your the man Al keep up the good work

staton

 

you dont need a reflash for a TBE