I took a ride in Kuba23's car with the pruven T67 kit in it today and I have to say, I wasn't a big fan of the lag. In an effort to counteract that, I've narrowed my selection down to three : The 3052, the 3071 and 3076. I know the 3071 supposedly will spool the fastest and the 3076 will have the highest power output, but I've not head enough about the 3052. I really want stock like spool, but 500whp capability on methanol injection and/or race gas. Im just not sure what I should be looking for when it comes to a broad, fat torque curve that will at least be driveable on the street but not fall off at the top like the 3071 supposedly will. A standalone, 280 cams and fuel system are in the works.

 

Geez, I don't think you're going to see 500whp with a 3071. I'm thinking more like 440-460whp. If you're really against lag, I'd consider the 3071 or the BR440. Both spool very quickly and would probably spool as quickly as stock using a massaged head. Then again, a 3076 with a massaged head will get you much closer to 500whp and prolly have very good spool. Just my half assed guess...

 

Well here is what I think I know. A 3052 is a GT3076 w/ a 52lb wheel. The fun part is the 3076 only comes w/ a 52lb wheel from Garrett. Some people throw a .70 A/R cover on a 3076 and call it a 3052. Both turbo's are rated at 500hp and the 3071 is rated at 460hp.

A T67 is a laggy turbo. Especially if it has the 10cm turbine housing.

 

This all confuses me.....jj_008....Im really green to understanding the variations of all these turbos. I figure I wanna go with a modified head, 280 cams and sprockets and an EMS, whether it be a Nemesis or AEM's unit, which I can tune out pretty much all the quirkiness with a good, strong boost solenoid.

Anyways, I figure the 3071 falls short in the top end power, which is something I'd like to keep in reserve. The 3076 really seems like the logical choicce, especially since I plan on running a race gas map...all in due time, though.


Alchohol injection, 3076 turbo, 280 cams, EMS, ARP head, cap and rod bolts, Cometic head gasket, AMS modified head and RnR Turbo kit with equal length manifold, and Im sure that it'll be a beast, and exactly what Im looking for. Now all I've gotta do is cough up the 10k to make it happen......AND my tranny needs freshening AGAIN. This time it goes to Shep or Team Ripp.

In the end Im going to have to decide between the 3071 and 3076, I just really didn't understand where the 3052 came in.

 

You might want to consider the big turbo with a slippable clutch. The lag's not as big of an issue if the rpm are up.

1st gear is the biggest concern with the big turbo and lack of low end power, but if you get the Exedy triple or RPS twin, you can start off by slipping with the rpm up.

Then you just keep the rpm up in the rest of the gears.

If you find yourself too low on the RPM band, push the clutch in, rev and slip. Off you go.

You will wear the clutch if you slip a lot, but the option is there and you are spending bucks to go fast. RPS will cost you around $1200 to rebuild with labor.

The other downside (or upside depending on your exhaust) is the noise your car will make at the higher rpm. Remember these clutches also transmit different sounds into the cabin than the stock clutch too.

 

3052 is a designation that Forced performance uses. It is the same as a Garret 3076, uses the 52lb/min compressor.

 

Lag is overrated. Just drop gear. Don't slip. Rps rebuilds are only about 400 bucks with about 350 bucks for labor. And no, the rps carbon carbon doesn't have flywheel/clutch chatter.

 

That's a lot of power for the stock pistons and rods, isn't it? I've wondered at what point does it make sense to swap in better rods and pistons, and how much does it cost to do with the motor still in the car and in good condition. It has to be much less expensive to do the in car swap with no overbore or machine work rather than waiting until you toast a piston or hurt a rod and then having to pull the motor, overbore and rebuild. I know Buschur does the in-car swaps. I'd be curious how much it costs.

 

Evo8LTW, it is pushing it, but Im watching too many people pound don 450-500whp on a stock block with the above said mods with no issues. A short block would put me out of contention for a turbo kit right now, so I'll have to de-tune my aspirations for now, and settle for what the stock components can handle. AMS has a car that runs 505awhp on race gas, no problem...ANYWAYS. The 3076 sounds like a good trade off, even though Im still leaning towards the 3071.

Really, LAG, is LAG. Downshifting? C'mon, thats such a thwarted attempt instead of just picking the right turbo for the right job. Im not going to drive a GT3540 around when I just dont drag race the car that often to care. Im more concerned about the overall driveability of the car and having as much fun as I can in it while using it everyday. A GT35 won't allow me to do that.

 

IIRC Rob at RPS charges around $600 for the re-build. Initially he thought he could do it for $400.

$600 clutch
$70 ($35 x 2 for shipping Shipping)
$500 for clutch install (don't know where I could get if for that 350 and some tuners charge up to $800)
$75 oils
Car rental while you wait for return?