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Atp turbo kit ?

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Old May 8, 2005, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by strongbear0
It can get clogged. There is a local guy here in the Orlando who had his fail at the track and he lost his motor. But what the hell it's different strokes for different folks. I personally want the fastest PUMP GAS car I can build and don't want meth/alky or race gas excepet for the rare ocassion that I want to thrown in some c16 and up the boost. I like the 30r. I went with the 3076 just because I felt that if I was gonna give up the stock spool I might as well pick up a turbo that's capable of 500-550whp on race gas.
What are the specs on your 3076??
I am thinking of getting the 3071 with the .82 exhaust housing, to have a decent spool and hopefully decent hp, but I have been thinking of the 3076 also..
What would you say your spool is @, in first gear, to 20psi??
Old May 8, 2005, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by statix
What are the specs on your 3076??
I am thinking of getting the 3071 with the .82 exhaust housing, to have a decent spool and hopefully decent hp, but I have been thinking of the 3076 also..
What would you say your spool is @, in first gear, to 20psi??
It's a -13 gt3076r and it's supposedly capable of 650chp. The .82 housing will not get you much over the .63 and you will sacrafice spool. As for spool you don't calculate spoool by looking at 1st gear you look at 3rd or 4th. In 3rd I make 20psi around 4300 and in 4th I make 20psi around 4100 and in 5th I can hit 22psi by 3800 and these are not guesses these are the numbers I am seeing on datalogs.
Old May 8, 2005, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by unknown2
What do you guys think of the ATP 3071R(60trim) turbo kit do you think it is worth the money....or should i stick with the stock one. I really want some more mid range power and a little high also. If you guys can give me the pro and cons would be great. Thanks in advance...
Did a seach and could not find anything really on the kit.


60trim on the 3071? that sounds way too big where did u get this info? isnt the 3071 using a 50trim?

GT3076R packs the 500HP capable, quick spooling 52 trim 76mm compressor

From atp's website but maybe thats a custom configuration?

Last edited by EVOLUTIONIZE; May 8, 2005 at 09:48 PM.
Old May 8, 2005, 09:50 PM
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atp gt3071r here... 392hp on 92octane @ 21psi (dynojet) (also made 352hp on a mustang) And I made that power with stock manifold, stock Upper i/c pipe and stock rubber intake tube. Ive added the upper i/c pipe and intake...EVO MR is right...I do love the kit, and the stock spool It's good for me

Last edited by mobounce; May 9, 2005 at 06:31 AM.
Old May 8, 2005, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by strongbear0
It's a -13 gt3076r and it's supposedly capable of 650chp. The .82 housing will not get you much over the .63 and you will sacrafice spool. As for spool you don't calculate spoool by looking at 1st gear you look at 3rd or 4th. In 3rd I make 20psi around 4300 and in 4th I make 20psi around 4100 and in 5th I can hit 22psi by 3800 and these are not guesses these are the numbers I am seeing on datalogs.

Is ur kit ams buschur?? what compressor wheel r u using?

Is turbotrix turbo kit also a 3076? Anyone?
Old May 9, 2005, 05:28 AM
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I run the ATP standard (T3 flanged) GT3071 with a 0.64 AR but a smaller GT30 wheel .. similar to the HKS GT2835R specs .. not much loss on spool versus the stock, though the lag is obvious below 3000rpms .. but beyond that .. hey .. my useable powerband is from 3000rpms to 7600rpms

maybe that's a route you should consider ..
Old May 9, 2005, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by mobounce
atp gt3071r here... 392hp on 92octane @ 21psi (dynojet) (also made 352hp on a mustang) And I made that power with stock manifold, stock Upper i/c pipe and stock rubber intake tube. Ive added the upper i/c pipe and intake...EVO MR is right...I do love the kit, and the stock spool It's good for me

modbounce, couldn't figure out why I remembered your screen name until.... the forge dv came in. Thanks for the quick shipping. Back on topic...

I have the 3071R as well, and so far the kit has been a bit of a pain to install. I had a small issue with the oil return flange leaking. I am hoping to cure that with a little blue rtv. As for the build quality, it seems good so far. Whatever kit you decide on, be sure to do plently of leg work on parts you may need before the install. In my case, I had to change my intake, as the one I had was a little long.

Did anyone else have any install issues on the atp kit???
Old May 9, 2005, 08:11 AM
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here read up on them in the DSM section
www.forcedperformance.net
Old May 9, 2005, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by sgplancer
Did anyone else have any install issues on the atp kit???
If your ATP kit has chromed mild steel IC pipes like mine did, be advised that the inside of these pipes are bare, and will rust (as apparent on the ones I'm holding). I don't want rust debris hitting the turbine blades.

If your kit has these pipes, I strongly suggest having them coated on the *inside* before installation.

Just FYI.

Last edited by Ted B; May 9, 2005 at 08:37 AM.
Old May 9, 2005, 08:17 AM
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i beleive the 76R is capable of 550+ whp.. its flow rate is 52lb/min
the 35R is 65lb/min , the GT3582R is 65lb/min, And king of them all is the FP3575R 75lb/min ....
Old May 9, 2005, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by sgplancer
modbounce, couldn't figure out why I remembered your screen name until.... the forge dv came in. Thanks for the quick shipping. Back on topic...

I have the 3071R as well, and so far the kit has been a bit of a pain to install. I had a small issue with the oil return flange leaking. I am hoping to cure that with a little blue rtv. As for the build quality, it seems good so far. Whatever kit you decide on, be sure to do plently of leg work on parts you may need before the install. In my case, I had to change my intake, as the one I had was a little long.

Did anyone else have any install issues on the atp kit???

Many people have had this issue with many turbo kits for our EVOs. Simply the spot that the oil pan return line sits on is a bit rounded causing many flanges to leak because simply they won’t sit flash on it. Many have used the stock return line and cut it in half so the ATP line will meet the stock one half way through with a clamp. That is the only way and you won’t have an oil leak after that. I had no issues in installing as everything fits perfect. You will need tools and experience to install it though.
Old May 9, 2005, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Ted B
If your ATP kit has chromed mild steel IC pipes like mine did, be advised that the inside of these pipes are bare, and will rust (as apparent on the ones I'm holding). I don't want rust debris hitting the turbine blades.

If your kit has these pipes, I strongly suggest having them coated on the *inside* before installation.

Just FYI.

Thanks for the input. This issue was handled before I started the install. It is nice to work for a company that handles industrial coatings. I just brought the pipes to work, handed them to one of my shop foreman and viola` it was coated.

As for your comments on the rust hitting the turbine blades, it acutally won't due to the fact it is on the discharge side of the snail. But thanks anyway.
Old May 9, 2005, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Az3ar
Many people have had this issue with many turbo kits for our EVOs. Simply the spot that the oil pan return line sits on is a bit rounded causing many flanges to leak because simply they won’t sit flash on it. Many have used the stock return line and cut it in half so the ATP line will meet the stock one half way through with a clamp. That is the only way and you won’t have an oil leak after that. I had no issues in installing as everything fits perfect. You will need tools and experience to install it though.
I thought something was a little fishy though as I had to use the stock bolts. The leak is actually coming out from behind the head of the bolt that rests on the aluminum block. I was thinking of the rtv, but cutting the stock one will probably due just fine as well.

As for the tools and experience part... I agree. I was able to break down the car in around 2 hours, and the install was a little over 3.5 It would have been shorter, but the oil leak slowed me down, and the snail had to be clocked to accomodate the water/oil line paths, as well as the discharge hose. All in all not too bad of a job.

When I finally get the oil discharge line sorted out, and breakin done, I will then head over to the shop to get the 'true' results. I will post a thread for all of the haters out there. Az3ar, you know what I mean .
Old May 9, 2005, 11:39 AM
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Actually, I was referring to hitting the turbine blades (not compressor blades) after passing through the engine, neither of which is especially desirable.
Old May 9, 2005, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by sgplancer
I thought something was a little fishy though as I had to use the stock bolts. The leak is actually coming out from behind the head of the bolt that rests on the aluminum block. I was thinking of the rtv, but cutting the stock one will probably due just fine as well.

As for the tools and experience part... I agree. I was able to break down the car in around 2 hours, and the install was a little over 3.5 It would have been shorter, but the oil leak slowed me down, and the snail had to be clocked to accomodate the water/oil line paths, as well as the discharge hose. All in all not too bad of a job.

When I finally get the oil discharge line sorted out, and breakin done, I will then head over to the shop to get the 'true' results. I will post a thread for all of the haters out there. Az3ar, you know what I mean .

lol, no need bud as I just ran 111 miles on that kit with no supporting mods.. Pump gas let me say... my 60 times were 2.3~2.4 yea I suck at launching our EVOS. I still ran 12.5


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