Widebandphillip

iTrader: (1)

any home improvement store should carry it like home depot. Just ask for a schrader valve. I've tried making a boost leak tester out of the stock intake, but it just stretches wayyy too much and it springs it's own leaks. I made one from a spare upper intercooler rubber hose and cut it down to size.

ShapeGSX

NAPA sells T-bolt clamps for about $2.50 each. No mail order needed.

NAPA also sells "radiator hose" that is perfect for intercooler couplers. It is reinforced with fabric and threads inside the rubber. I've never had one blow out on me. For that matter, with the T-bolt clamps and the radiator hose, I've never even had one blow off. It practically welds itself to the pipe. The part number for the 2.5" or 2.25" ID radiator hose is 617.

Remember when you buy T-bolt clamps, you need to buy a clamp that will fit over the coupler, not just the pipe. So a 2.5" pipe would probably require a 2.75" or 3" T-bolt clamp. It depends on the coupler you use.

krafty

iTrader: (17)

Got my from walmart, I think they were like $1.50 for 2 in a package. They are just replacement valve stems.

availpunk9

when pressurising the whole intake track be carefull not to give it too much pressure. i'm not a lancer guru here, but i have dont this on my 300zx. if you presurize too much you can pop an oil seal out because you're pressurising some parts that only see vacum when the engin runs, at least on the Z anyways. people have gotten oil leaks from cam seals/crank seals and such. i pressurise to about 8-10 psi and never go above that. any boost leak that you have you will hear at those lvls plus a spray bottle of soapy water helps also. spray and look for bubling. i have a pressure tester with a built in boost gauge and a regulator valve in it. i hoock it up to my air compressor and regulate the incoming air with the valve. if need be i can post a pic of this sometime later when i come back from work.

as far as some people saying that they cant go abobe a certain point:
-either a boost leak
- when engine is off some valves are open and some are closed. thus some air migh be escaping from the exhaust. on my car i can hear the air working its way through the intake and slowly working its way out.

GOKOU

iTrader: (2)

Great info. I wonder if they have reducers The one that goes from the intercooler pipe to the TB

ShapeGSX

They don't have reducers at NAPA, but they do have rubber inserts that can convert a pipe from 2.25" to 2.5", for example. I used one so I could connect my 2.5" compressor inlet pipe to the 2.25" compressor inlet on my 16G.

Basically, the insert is 2.5" OD, and 2.25" ID, and has a lip on the end to prevent it from going into the hose too far. Part number is NBH904, or just "904". NBH = NAPA Belts and Hoses. They may have more sizes. But this is the only one I have ever needed. NAPA should let you browse their catalogs in the store.

Read about it here:
http://newengdsm.org/forums/viewtopi...highlight=napa

It is fine to pressurize the intake tract to very high pressures. Some leaks don't show up til you get to 20psi.

How to build a pressure tester with pictures:
http://vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html

If you have a big compressor with a quick release on the end of the hose, you can use a quick release air fitting on the PVC pipe instead. The metal threads will cut into the PVC just fine.

Really tighten this down on the compressor inlet because if it come shooting off, it is gonna hurt! And yes, I've had that happen.

availpunk9

just curious as why this is true for the evo? here's my understanding of why not to pressurise your intake tract to an extreme. when pressurising you're putting boost where there really isn't supposed to be any. example is pressure build up in the pvc system. pvc is supposed to vent any blow by/pressure build up from the crank case. so when you do pressurise to high psi lvls the seals aren't exactly supposed to be in that environment, thus the whole idea behind the pvc system to relieve crank case of pressure build up. now this is coming from a non evo driver, but i think it applies to any turbo charged vehicle. correct me if i'm wrong, i'm waiting for the IX and trying to learn.

ShapeGSX

The PCV valve will be closed because there will be positive pressure in the intake manifold and normal air pressure in the crank case, which forces the valve close. The PCV valve should always be closed when you are on boost. It only opens up when you have vac in the intake manifold.

When you are on boost, positive crankcase ventilation is performed by the crank vent on the valve cover. But you remove that when you perform this test. No biggie.

You might get some leakage past the rings when testing, but it will be a whole lot less than if you were actually running the engine!

availpunk9

well ye that's what i'm saying. the pvc is closed because it only operates during vacum. i'm my case the z vents the pressure build up in the crank case only via pvc, i wasn't aware that venting the valve cover for this test is part of the procedure for the lancer. on the z the valve covers are impossible to get to without removing top half of intake manifold. some ppl do extensive leak down tests and pressurise the system for like 30 mins, i know i had to once in order to track a leak near the egr valve. the rings do let a little bit of the air go by thus over time you have pressure in the crank case. that's how some z owners pop their oil seals out. just trying to give a little heads up, but i guess it doesn't apply to the evo.

ShapeGSX

I could see popping something if you pressurized the system starting at the air filter. That would mean that you are pressurizing the crank case through the crank vent tube that gets its vacuum source from the pipe before the turbo.

We are talking about removing that pipe and capping off the turbo compressor inlet with the pressure tester cap. So the crankcase will not be pressurized at all.

availpunk9

there we go, makes sence to me now. we do presurise the the intake system right after the filet and the maf. our turbos are nice and hidden a good ways under all the intake piping and the other crap thats in the way. another reason i'm looking towards owning the evo much easier to work on due to engine compartment not being as crampt.

justchil

iTrader: (44)

Hmm.. someone needs to make/sell some of these for us who are lazy ;D

marksae

iTrader: (12)

Here you go.

http://www.machv.com/macvleaktes.html

stvbreal

iTrader: (17)

I tried this and it never held pressure. Used a bike pump then compressor and never held enough pressure to check for leaks. Didn't hear any noise of leaks. Actually had to hunt them down.

justchil

iTrader: (44)

Ahhhh sweet! I'm assuming I'll need the 2" and the 3"?