DIY Pressure tester (pic) and leaks found so far
Aug 28, 2005, 02:38 AM
#61
Not sure how old some of the lower i/c pipes are that are being talked about but I agree none the less, they are a pain to install.
For the last 6 months or so we have been including instructions with the Deluxe FMIC kit to help guys get that pipe on the right way.
First let me make sure to say, each one of those lower pipes are machined perfectly flat before we ship them. IF anyone's is "warped" it is from putting it on improperly as they are flat when they leave.
Pull the starter off AND take the wastegate actuator off the car. Then put the pipe on, makes it much easier AND insures the pipe is bolted on flat to the turbo. Then you can put the other parts back on.
I have no excuse for the pin hole found in the pipe. Probably happended at the end of the weld when you pull the tungsten away. I apologize, would have gladly paid shipping and re-welded it for you. Also glad to hear that although there was a pin hole it didn't effect the boost level.
I had two cars on the dyno this week that wouldn't hold boost. Did a quick boost leak check and both had fairly severe leaks. One was at the lower i/c pipe coupling, clamp was crooked and the other was at the lower bolt hole on where the TB bolts to a sheetmetal intake manifold.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
For the last 6 months or so we have been including instructions with the Deluxe FMIC kit to help guys get that pipe on the right way.
First let me make sure to say, each one of those lower pipes are machined perfectly flat before we ship them. IF anyone's is "warped" it is from putting it on improperly as they are flat when they leave.
Pull the starter off AND take the wastegate actuator off the car. Then put the pipe on, makes it much easier AND insures the pipe is bolted on flat to the turbo. Then you can put the other parts back on.
I have no excuse for the pin hole found in the pipe. Probably happended at the end of the weld when you pull the tungsten away. I apologize, would have gladly paid shipping and re-welded it for you. Also glad to hear that although there was a pin hole it didn't effect the boost level.
I had two cars on the dyno this week that wouldn't hold boost. Did a quick boost leak check and both had fairly severe leaks. One was at the lower i/c pipe coupling, clamp was crooked and the other was at the lower bolt hole on where the TB bolts to a sheetmetal intake manifold.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Aug 28, 2005, 04:41 AM
#62
Originally Posted by davidbuschur
Pull the starter off AND take the wastegate actuator off the car. Then put the pipe on, makes it much easier AND insures the pipe is bolted on flat to the turbo. Then you can put the other parts back on.
Aug 29, 2005, 06:48 AM
#63
The main thing is making sure that the lower pipe fits flat and tight to the turbo. IF the actuator then hits the pipe when you re-install it you can either put a washer behind the actuator or simply use a screwdriver to pry gently on the actuator bracket to bend it slightly to the side.
The lower i/c pipes have been changed over the last 3-4 months to allow more clearance there, so newer ones shouldn't be much of or any issue.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
The lower i/c pipes have been changed over the last 3-4 months to allow more clearance there, so newer ones shouldn't be much of or any issue.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Sep 7, 2005, 05:07 PM
#64
ok so i officially think i have a bad leak my boost isnt getting full spool till like 4500 thats with the stock turbo hahahah but whats weird is it holds 21psi fine?.... so with the tester should i cap off the top of the IC pipe at the throttle body or should i just set the motor to tdc ? thanks
Sep 8, 2005, 08:28 AM
#66
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i do both... first i cap it at the throttle body and test the IC pipes alone for leaks, then i attach it at the throttle body, set it to tdc and test for vacuum hoses that may have blown off. makes it much easier to isolate a possible problem...
Sep 8, 2005, 10:31 AM
#67
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Well, I finally got around to doing this. Had some weird results. I hooked up my pressure tester at the turbo and plugged the line going to the BCS(the one closer to the front of the car coming from the turbo) and the crank case ventilation hose that goes into the intake track. Next I hooked up my cigarette lighter compressor(means the ignition was on). I pumped up the pressure till my boost gauge hit 15 psi. It would go no higher. So, I try again and this time only 10psi. I try a third time and the oil dipstick shoots out of the engine bay! I thinking WTF caused that. So, I open the oil cap and all this pressurized air comes out. I try one more time and back to 15psi and no higher. I didn't hear any leaks anywhere. I also crawed under the car with the undertray removed and still no sound of any leaks.
I put everything back together and when I started the car I got two SES P0107(MAP/BARO Circuit Low Input) and P0113 (IAT Sensor 1 Circuit High Input). I reset the ECU and the car drives fine.
Any ideas what happend?????
I put everything back together and when I started the car I got two SES P0107(MAP/BARO Circuit Low Input) and P0113 (IAT Sensor 1 Circuit High Input). I reset the ECU and the car drives fine.
Any ideas what happend?????
Sep 8, 2005, 11:43 AM
#69
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No. Is that necessary to do the test? I have read on other threads that it doesn't matter if the engine is at TDC.
Originally Posted by Evoisdream
hrmmm did u set the motor to Tdc?
Sep 9, 2005, 12:44 PM
#71
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Bump. Any Ideas?
Originally Posted by revolagoy
Well, I finally got around to doing this. Had some weird results. I hooked up my pressure tester at the turbo and plugged the line going to the BCS(the one closer to the front of the car coming from the turbo) and the crank case ventilation hose that goes into the intake track. Next I hooked up my cigarette lighter compressor(means the ignition was on). I pumped up the pressure till my boost gauge hit 15 psi. It would go no higher. So, I try again and this time only 10psi. I try a third time and the oil dipstick shoots out of the engine bay! I thinking WTF caused that. So, I open the oil cap and all this pressurized air comes out. I try one more time and back to 15psi and no higher. I didn't hear any leaks anywhere. I also crawed under the car with the undertray removed and still no sound of any leaks.
I put everything back together and when I started the car I got two SES P0107(MAP/BARO Circuit Low Input) and P0113 (IAT Sensor 1 Circuit High Input). I reset the ECU and the car drives fine.
Any ideas what happend?????
I put everything back together and when I started the car I got two SES P0107(MAP/BARO Circuit Low Input) and P0113 (IAT Sensor 1 Circuit High Input). I reset the ECU and the car drives fine.
Any ideas what happend?????
lol it was my bad i had it put on weird from when i finished up my clutch and rushed it cant blame anyone but myself not a big deal local guys sell all new ones so i just got a new one 