ACT clutch with flywheel?
Originally Posted by ACTman
They don't know what they are talking about. Since it is not grey iron like most flywheels it may take a different grade wheel than what they usually use, but if they have a general cutting grade, the stone should cut fine. We do it all the time. And with the EVO flywheel there is less chance of cracking than most flywheels and they even less chance of catastrophic failure since they are not grey iron.
my mitsubishi ASE certified, Diamond start certified master mechanic of 10 years as well as Service manager who had Evo 7 in the states (Victor) recommend that I resurface my flywheel instead of getting an aftermarket one.
Originally Posted by plokivos
my mitsubishi ASE certified, Diamond start certified master mechanic of 10 years as well as Service manager who had Evo 7 in the states (Victor) recommend that I resurface my flywheel instead of getting an aftermarket one.
should not be confusing at all - you can resurface the stock one provided you fid the right machine shop, and provided it is not so badly wasted that there is not enough meat left to cut it - same thing applies to brake rotors.
Or, you can get an aftermarket - for my own cars, I tend to prefer 1 piece chromoly ones as opposed to 2 piece units on higher hp cars, especially AWD ones. I've seen horror stories happen first hand with 2 piece flywheels on such cars where dowel pins backed out, and bam.....you got a jigsaw puzzle of parts scattered all over. However, the Evo is not all that heavy, and as such, I don;t see why an aluminum flywheel (which are 2 pieces) could not be used.
Or, you can get an aftermarket - for my own cars, I tend to prefer 1 piece chromoly ones as opposed to 2 piece units on higher hp cars, especially AWD ones. I've seen horror stories happen first hand with 2 piece flywheels on such cars where dowel pins backed out, and bam.....you got a jigsaw puzzle of parts scattered all over. However, the Evo is not all that heavy, and as such, I don;t see why an aluminum flywheel (which are 2 pieces) could not be used.
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
I trusted the master tech's word when he said NOT to do it. Next time I might try it...
At least on the EVO they can't screw up the step since there isn't one, but I worry about balance since a lot of shops don't always have the right equipment to rebalance the flywheel. Balance is not really that critical in most cases but I like to see it done right. We always dynamically balance a flywheel after resurfacing. I guess since many manufacturers don't even balance their flywheels in the first place, it shouldn't matter enough for people to notice.
Originally Posted by ACTman
I was just looking at the prototypes today. Our first production run should be ready in about 2-3 months. Sorry it has taken so long. They will be available in two weights, 10 and 13 lbs with most of the material taken from the outside perimeter where it matters most. Of course they are forged chromoly, heat treated, one peice, with hardened ring gear, computer balanced, SFI certified, blah, blah, sales pitch over. I can take a couple photos tomorrow if you like.
Originally Posted by sleet
Hmm, I wanna see some pics...i'll have to make my clutch last another 2-3 months
I thought you were getting the carbon carbon. I was searching and saw you ask 100 questions on it. haha
Originally Posted by Spec'd
Besides stock.
Is there any superior one piece non-lightened steel or chromoly flywheels available ?.
Is there any superior one piece non-lightened steel or chromoly flywheels available ?.
Originally Posted by 1BADASSEVO8
I thought you were getting the carbon carbon. I was searching and saw you ask 100 questions on it. haha
Originally Posted by sleet
Hmm, I wanna see some pics...i'll have to make my clutch last another 2-3 months
Overall weight is not what is most important. It's more important to know where to leave material and where to take it away. Our Streetlite is over 40% thicker behind the disc area and weighs about 13.1 lbs because we took material away at the outer perimeter (for reduced inertia) and added behind the disc. Our Prolite is still over 15% thicker behind the disc but weighs only about 10 lbs.
Tell me what you think.
Originally Posted by ACTman
Well since you asked... Here are some photos of stock and ours. I took some quick measurements again for reference. The stock one weighs about 14.2 lbs and is about .35" thick behind the clutch disc surface (the area that absorbs the heat and warps).
Overall weight is not what is most important. It's more important to know where to leave material and where to take it away. Our Streetlite is over 40% thicker behind the disc area and weighs about 13.1 lbs because we took material away at the outer perimeter (for reduced inertia) and added behind the disc. Our Prolite is still over 15% thicker behind the disc but weighs only about 10 lbs.
Tell me what you think.
Overall weight is not what is most important. It's more important to know where to leave material and where to take it away. Our Streetlite is over 40% thicker behind the disc area and weighs about 13.1 lbs because we took material away at the outer perimeter (for reduced inertia) and added behind the disc. Our Prolite is still over 15% thicker behind the disc but weighs only about 10 lbs.
Tell me what you think.
Originally Posted by sleet
That is one very nice flywheel! How much would it cost?
i just orderd my act today should b putting it all in next week got a braided line 2 and probly will pull the restrictor pill...
i cant wait im just gonna resurface the flywheel... kinda weird i have almost 40 1/4 miles passes on the stocker with 1.8 60 foots and 23K and it was perfect the last week just started slipping terribly...
evoisdream
i cant wait im just gonna resurface the flywheel... kinda weird i have almost 40 1/4 miles passes on the stocker with 1.8 60 foots and 23K and it was perfect the last week just started slipping terribly...
evoisdream