Hmm, didn't know they did it for free. Well, don't let them change your t-case fluid.

 

If I were you I would put the stock box back with the stock air filter; Do a baseline dyno run with your car in the stock form, then put a K&N drop-in do a dyno run again, then put the K&N intake and do dyno run again. No space for doubts.

 

I think alot of what I read about the K&N has to do with the filter element and the crap they treat it with creating a film that makes people worry.

I think it probably breaths OK, it should make more HP than the stock box unless its not connected properly.

Definitely get a boost controller, I recommend the AVC-R, after you get it setup and tuned correctly it works very well.

I'd replace that stock BOV as well.

 

Also, if you don't have that stock "pill", you'll have trouble hitting 1BAR/14lbs so I'd say he's good on that front.

 

HKS Racing Suction seems to be the most popular, although, I think the APS cold air intake and Water Sprayer Tank relocation looks like a better design.

 

thanks guys for the help seriously... i love evom for this!

my last question was: when i asked about if it was detectable, i didnt mean detectable by being in the car when the inspect.. i was saying, if i was to pull out the mbc before i took it in to mitsu, they couldnt say oh u were running 21psi rather then 19psi and void my warranty right?

 

I just leave all my stuff hooked up and they have yet to deny me any warranty. I'm on my 3rd TC even... It's never going back for another stocker though, christ..

Back on topic though, you just have a boost leak. Like others said put the stock intake on, but then you'll actually be able to hear your boost leaking. You cant hear it right now with your loud *** intake. If your only peaking 17 you will be able to hear the rest pissing off. For ex my last boost leak was pissing where the BOV recirc host meets to BOV and I could totally hear it leaking while still hitting 19psi or so.

 

I just dynoed my 03 on a dyno dynamic and my boost also only peaked at 17psi. before tapering down and holding. My friend who was tuning it said that a lot of cars don't boost to the factory stock specs. So it might be normal for his car.

 

Check the BOV and also check the MAF honeycomb. Could be dirty/clogged and the fins could be bent...mine was covered in all kinds of crap...cleaned it out, straightened as many fins as possible, and I gained an enormous amount of lost power...I won't even disclose what my STOCK numbers were, kinda embarrasing...but all is good now after that little issue was corrected and ECUtek tuning...

Mitsu's information stated 14.5 to 19.5psi stock is normal...