How much freeplay do you have now? (i.e., how far can you depress the pedal before the plunger moves on the slave cylinder)

 

Warrleton - now go back in there and start threading the rod back downwards till you hit the lockout issue again, then turn it back a turn.

With the rod threaded out, you should not have any issues wearing the clutch out sooner...if anything, you were not fully disengaging before, thus the lockout issue.

 

I checked to make sure there was freeplay after the fact, but I don't know how to convey that distance...I didn't have a way to measure it, but there is a measurable distance, though not much. Then again, "much" is a completely relative term...

 

Dammit, it's WARR TALON!! I never realized that was so easily construed as "warrelton" or whatever.

Anyway, no, what I meant was the opposite of what you are saying. If the rod is backed all the way out, then when driving, you burn the clutch, because it is not fully engaged and is constantly slipping to some degree. I pretty much did what you suggested by adjusting the rod back the other way as far as I could without encountering the lockout issue...

 

The free play needed at the top of the pedal is only 1mm-3mm according to Mitsubishi. If a person was worried about not enough freeplay at the top and therefore burning out the clutch (which is another source of premature failures for many clutches) then they could get some more upstroke by messing with the upper stop adjuster.

As long as this is kept as harping on ACT specifically I'll keep defending them. But it is happening to CF, CM, Exedy, Stock and all stock based clutches. ACT has the most of them out there with more hard core guys gravitating towards them so they will take the biggest hit for it.

Mike W

 

Hey Warrtalon, remember I told you me and my friend had the same locking out of gear problems? Well, this Monday night we went to the track and my car was shifting even over 7200rpm with no problem and it was running amazing, we even destroyed a 405whp turbo Integra on the quarter mile and it was a rolling start (but thats another post hehe), at our local track they have a few days were we race without lights or times, just street racing at the track!

But my friend didnt had the same luck, his is still acting a little bit, but we are not sure its the cluth because they have been working on the tranny.

I dont say my problem is fixed, just that on monday night it wasnt doing it. But it only happens with the EVOs that had the ACT(I have 5 friends with EVOS at the track that day). But hearing the other problems you are having, I suggest your installer check everything again, thats not normal, looks like something could be wrong with the tranny too!

 

I hear you, but does that mean it's just accepted now? Continue to sell it because they all do it? I'm confused as to why figuring this out before selling another single-disk (mainly ACT) is not a top priority, and I'm referring to the general vendor/manufacturer public, not just you at RRE....

 

What other problems are you referring to? I'm just not able to shift above 7k...

If you mean the getting stuck in gear, it's the same as not being able to shift. The clutch is still engaged somehow, or at least it was before I adjusted the pedal today. It's shifting above 7k at the moment, but I'm not confident this will last very long.

 

Wow, I can't believe there are 15 pages to this thread! I have been checking in from time to time, but I was hoping someone would try something instead of just keyboard engineering. I've addressed this issue at least a few times on this forum. I am at a disadvantage because I don't own an EVO and I don't work on them so I don't want to come off like Mr Know-it-all. Very recently I said that we are going to do some testing with the cooperation of RRE but we haven't found a car yet that has the "lockout problem" that remains once adjusted properly. On the other hand I have ran into several people who adjusted it and it worked find afterward (that is why we include this in our instructions). In the last couple weeks I have seen at least 3 threads on the subject with many of the same players, but I haven't really heard anything new. Quite frankly, I was a getting a little tired of saying the same thing and I don't have much time to play on the computer. I am very concerned about anything that potentially deals with the quality of our product and the satisfaction of the customer.

Clutches are really fairly simple so it is not difficult to test to see if they are doing the job or not. On the other hand cars are not simple and there are many different factors that can contribute to a shifting problem like what has been discussed. It can be as simple as adjustment, or as complex as torsional vibration or crankshaft flex. But without testing either the car or the clutch parts all I am doing is speculating which to me is fruitless and it just sounds like I am passing the buck to suggest looking for other issues. I just wish customers would contact us first when they have a concern. It would solve a lot of issues. I usually respond promptly to emails at dstarksen@advancedclutch.com. Sorry I don't do the IM thing. Been there, drove me nuts. I will address this subject more fully later when I have a bit more time, starting with the basics and getting more in depth.

 

Actman are there are shops in tri-state area that you recommend getting a clutch installed?

 

I did the pedal adjustment...I now have almost no thread left. This will not solve the problem for long, and it is very inconvenient for fast shifting during racing. I'm pretty sure that you didn't create this clutch with the intention of us having to raise our engagement point all the way to the top, which then throws off everything in our shifting dynamics, so I don't consider it a solution so much as a band-aid. That being said, I still did it at least so that I can enjoy my auto-x event this week and road racing event next, not to mention my daily driving that had been seriously degraded due to this problem.

As for the direct contact, I tried to PM you, but it's disabled as you alluded to with the "IM" reference. I did not know your personal email addy, nor did I know that was your preference. I often tell people to search, but it's not like I was asking a question. I didn't expect you to be of any help anyway, since this is such a common problem and nothing has been done and nothing will be done in the foreseeable future, at least not within any timeframe that will be of any use to me and my currently crippled car (got some crutches at least). Somehow, none of RRE's customers have had the problem persist after the pedal adjustment like those in other areas of the country, but I still don't consider this pedal adjustment a proper solution anyway, so it makes sense to me that the problem would be addressed IN SPITE of the pedal adjustment band-aid...just my opinion.

 

Hey War, I have been experiencing the same problem as you and have contacted RRE about the problem and Mike has been extremely helpful, currently I have been forgetting to take the Car to RRE (which is less than a 10min drive lol) . I will let them adjust it and PM you the details of my before and after experience. Not that it would any way help you just give you some feedback pertaining to RRE's adjustment in hopes that you can diagnose the problem of your car and shifting better. I will try to get the car to RRE tomarrow and drop you a line on the outcome.

 

I adjusted my pedal today, so I assume you will have the same result I had, which is the renewed ability to shift at any rpm as fast as I want, but with a much higher pedal engagement, which causes lots of weird things to happen when shifting and starting off. For instance, the first time I speedshifted the 1-2 (after adjustment), my timing for nailing the gas and letting off the clutch was messed up due to the new engagement point, so I ended up hitting full throttle before full engagement, which caused it to slip. I would probably have trouble matching own times at the drag strip the way it is now, but that may change after I get used to it...

 

I think it'll take some getting used to . Would you say that it's inconvienent at it's current location? I drove the neighbor's Honda the other day and the clutch release point was high and uncomfortable atleast to me.


The current height of the pedal now is extremely comfortable, currently it's at about mid- point which I like because there isn't alot of waiting while trying to ease out of first, hopefully you understand that because it's hard for me to describe.

I am fully confident that RRE will take care of the problem tomarrow, But with anything I fear the Con's , seems like any positive thing we do to these cars has some sort of trade-of , like BOV's , Intakes ETC. I just hope that the trade-of your experiencing won't be as horrible as it sounds.


best of luck
Aaron

 

Are you kidding me?

It's right on the ACT website:

Dirk Starksen
President / CTO
(661) 940-7555 ext. 111
(661) 940-7541
dstarksen@advancedclutch.com