Great response from ACT. Looking forward to the page. I have used 3 ACT clutches in my DSM's and I was looking at one for the EVO. Glad they took the time to reply on the forum.

 

I had 2 1Gs both with ACT 2600s and both needed to be adjusted to get the engaugment point higher. I guess you got lucky if you never had any issue with it having 3 of them. I know Im not the only one, here are 2 direct quotes from the VFAQ's about clutch installs on 1G's

"Note if you are putting in an aftermarket clutch, it might be a good idea to remove the pivot ball and put a single lockwasher on it. There has always been a big debate on whether this does anything or not, but anyone that actually does notices a difference. It basically helps move the clutch pedal engagement point up off of the floor a bit. I do it on every clutch job I do now."

"If your clutch is grabbing right off the floor or your gears grind like mad trying to get into gear, it is possible your master cylinder clutch adjustment rod needs to be turned out a bit"

 

Even if I had needed to do that, having the engagement near the bottom is far, far better than having it at the extreme top of the pedal throw. It's going to be especially bad when autocrossing and road racing, during which I move my seat way up and sit straight up. My knee will be nearly pressed against my chest.

 

Do you still not understand that the Evo system is the opposite of the DSM system?

 

Go to the evomoto link or the RRE link. Both were provided in this thread. I used the one on RRE's website that Mike W gave us...

 

Yes, I do understand the difference. When I had the ACT installed, I got a chance to see the pull-type system that looked very weird, so I do know what he's talking about.

However, I don't understand why you asked if I understand this concept. It doesn't change anything about the fact that having to adjust the pedal so that the engagement is at the very top of the pedal throw is very bad for driving and racing. Again, this is a bandaid fix and is not what anyone should have to deal with when purchasing and installing an aftermarket clutch.

I think Dirk is a great guy and that ACT is a great company, but that's not going to stop me from trying to get to the bottom of this whole thing. I understand that you really, really like Dirk, and that's fine, but it's no reason to antagonize me here without cause.

 

Sorry, I totally understand your frustration. I would be frustrated too.

The main problem I am having is you STILL haven't contacted ACT or Dirk directly!

 

Don't worry, I have contacted him.

I don't expect anything to come of it. There's nothing he can do except file my experience away as another one in a long list of those that already exist, or try to convince me that adjusting the pedal is the proper fix, neither of which are satisfactory. If something else is done (I can't imagine what), then I will be sure to report back in a new thread.

 

^^ Razorlab I wouldn't say that is the main problem. I too am frustated and like many would've never bought the ACT clutch if this was mentioned earlier on the forum.
I for one really appericate the time and effort Warrtalon has put by posting all his findings on this thread. I had no clue before this post that ACT disc could be the cause of this lockout issue.

 

I also have no clue that ACT is the problem. :-)

Mike W

 

However you look at it, if someone installs an ACT HDSS, they _will_ incur a lockout problem. That is unquestionable, whether it's ACT's fault or not. The point here is not to bash ACT or question their quality, but rather to share my experience with others, so that they can make a much more well-informed decision when buying an aftermarket clutch. I don't think any consumer will consider it acceptable to ONLY be able to use the clutch after adjusting the pedal to a very high position when paying such an exorbitant amount of money on a clutch + install, especially when doing so only ensures temporary usability. This combined with the threat of damaged synchros will likely turn many customers away until definitive proof is given, one way or the other.

 

To add to clutch adjustment, just give a holar over to Jon @TRE. I mean this man bases his career on doing transmissions. He should know more than most. I'd post what he told me on my DSM but because the two systems are different I don't think it'll help. I'd call and see what he has to say concerning Evo's.

 

I think that is very questionable! We have a lot of satified customers who don't experience this and have ran our clutch for a long time. I am sure that after several months of racing with a clutch out of adjustment the syncros are going to be toast. Now is that the fault of the clutch or the guy that refuses to adjust the clutch?

But that is just one factor. There is a lot I am intentionally not saying yet. Trust me, I will get in depth on this issue on the web page so get ready for an education. I still haven't done testing to confirm or eliminate a couple suspicions I have and I know there is more than one issue here, so don't look for an answer for everyone, just the theory behind what can and does cause lockout or poor shifting and a little about how clutches work. Man, I hope I have enough time to get this page together this weekend. I have five kids (including an exchange student) all going different directions this weekend (football, cheerleading, son's birthday party, etc) so forgive me if I can't get it done completely. My hope is that I can get it started and as we do more testing, post the information.

If you haven't seen our main website recently check out our tech section (www.advancedclutch.com). We have a ways to go, but it's a start.

I was hoping you would just call me since I gave you my cell number, or give me your number since I asked for it twice now. Instead all you are doing is telling everyone basically that our product is to blame, and speculating that it will do no good to talk to me, etc. Come on now, give me a little credit here.

In the morning... pick up the phone... dial the cell number...
Ok, now I am teasing you. Seriously, I look forward to discussing it so you don't have to wait for a web page.

 

hey warrtalon

i feel ya man..i have the exact probs u have..done all the things u have months ago..and i still have shifting probs @ high rpms..now i just got it so daily is drivable and the pedal is not to high..but i still cant shift @ 7k..it locks out and takes a sec for the rpm to drop and it goes in..i even extended the rod my 3mm and it didnt do much..

and i see that most of you just dont get how annoying it is having a high engagement point..its very hard to drive daily, smoothly, and it gets worse shifting fast at high rpms..u end up slipping the hell out of it..it might work if the pedal efford is not hard but the ACT is..so its very hard to control the engagement point that high up..i tried the high engagement point for one day..and i was getting ready to kill someone..high engagment sucks period no matter how u look at it..

adjusting the pedal that high to fix it, is not a fix like warrtalon said...and from what it seems thats the only way you can shift @ high rpm w. this clutch..

like i said ive learn to live w. this..if my ACT ever goes..i thinking either stock or if i have the money twin disk..

 

Yeah, you and everyone else that has an ACT, except for the group of people ACTman is talking about. I don't see anyone here claiming their ACT is great and having no problems. The only people I see that have no problems are people that don't ever shift above 7k, or that don't do any form of racing ever. I'd love to see this large group of people that ACTman is referring to, because every one of US _has_ and _is_ experiencing the lockout problem. I don't know how many people it takes who have ALREADY adjusted their pedal and still have the problem before I stop getting patronized as if I caused this problem by "refusing" to adjust my pedal, despite the fact that it was perfectly adjusted back when it was first installed.