Stock turbo shot @ 20K miles?!?!
Nope, no CEL and my gas mileage is pretty much unchanged around town. I usually get about 20mpg.
When I originally unhooked the stock vac lines, I never took out the restricters so everything went right back on like it was stock. The MBC is a Hallman ES but one of the things we did was to take out the MBC all together and it still didn't even go above 10 with the stock lines back on. So I don't think the MBC is bad.
I did disconnect the line to the wg act. to see what would happen and again, only 10#.
When I originally unhooked the stock vac lines, I never took out the restricters so everything went right back on like it was stock. The MBC is a Hallman ES but one of the things we did was to take out the MBC all together and it still didn't even go above 10 with the stock lines back on. So I don't think the MBC is bad.
I did disconnect the line to the wg act. to see what would happen and again, only 10#.
I doubt it since I checked the wastegate out when I had the turbo off and everything looked fine. The WG wasn't stuck open or anything, that I could tell at least. I also tried 2 different WG act. with no change.
I looked through the reply's quickly, only noticed the leak issue mentioned already.
This has happened a few times to me. in my case, here is what it was:
1. A boost/vacume leak, one of the small hoses came off.
2. The car went in to limp mode for some ECU reason. I turned the car off and it fixed it BUT you might want to diconnect the ground for 20 -30 seconds to reset the ECU
(may be a failing BOV?)
This has happened a few times to me. in my case, here is what it was:
1. A boost/vacume leak, one of the small hoses came off.
2. The car went in to limp mode for some ECU reason. I turned the car off and it fixed it BUT you might want to diconnect the ground for 20 -30 seconds to reset the ECU
(may be a failing BOV?)
I had a similar problem and I'll explain it w/o trying to sound like an idiot. what happened to me was the shop mixed up my vaccum/boost lines and basically was bypassing my boost controller. Thats when i found out that my engine could hold 30 psi b/c there was nothing controlling the boost from the turbo. After we fixed the lines and got everything back in working order, I could only make 13psi even with the boost controller fully open. From what I understood, the stock evo uses a soleniod to control low/high boost gain and as a fail-safe it fails to low boost 12-13psi. I changed out and went to a manual boost controller and it worked. Like I said before, I'm by far not an expert, but repeating how it was explained to me.
Even with no signal to the wg act, where it should have gone to 30+psi, it still only went to 10. All the vac lines are hooked up correctly, w/ all restricters etc intact. I may intake test it once more just for good measure but I doubt it will reveal anything new.
** UPDATE **
Well I finally got the car to the dealer yesterday. After an all day analysis, they determined that it was in fact the turbo that was bad. Apparently, when this dealer got the car, it was already modded so they had to turn it back to stock before they sold it. So a friend of mine originally buys the car then I buy it from him afew monthes later. The dealer told him that the car wouldn't have any problems with the warrenty even though it was modded. So after they told me the turbo was shot, they said that Mitsu was going to cover the cost of the turbo but NOT the labor. I thought this was odd. Either they cover the warrenty 100% or nothing at all, since when do they do the part and not the labor??? Its a messed up situation now. I'm sure I'm in for a fight to get this replaced 100% free. If I can't get an answer out of them soon, I'll just throw another turbo on it myself, don't want this to turn into a huge, drawn out thing like I had to go through years ago when my transfer case locked up on my Talon. Took monthes of fighting to get Mitsu to cover it.
Well I finally got the car to the dealer yesterday. After an all day analysis, they determined that it was in fact the turbo that was bad. Apparently, when this dealer got the car, it was already modded so they had to turn it back to stock before they sold it. So a friend of mine originally buys the car then I buy it from him afew monthes later. The dealer told him that the car wouldn't have any problems with the warrenty even though it was modded. So after they told me the turbo was shot, they said that Mitsu was going to cover the cost of the turbo but NOT the labor. I thought this was odd. Either they cover the warrenty 100% or nothing at all, since when do they do the part and not the labor??? Its a messed up situation now. I'm sure I'm in for a fight to get this replaced 100% free. If I can't get an answer out of them soon, I'll just throw another turbo on it myself, don't want this to turn into a huge, drawn out thing like I had to go through years ago when my transfer case locked up on my Talon. Took monthes of fighting to get Mitsu to cover it.
I would like to upgrade but I just don't have the $ right now. Besides, I'll be more then happy with a good running stock turbo. I may go with an 05 turbo w/ the 10.5 housing. Should be good enough for me for the time being.
*UPDATE 2*
Well its been awhile but I FINALLY put my new turbo (stock EVO7) that I've had sitting around for monthes. After working all day Sat. on it, still won't go over 10#. I'm about ready to drive this car off a cliff
I'm back to square one. Probably going to start over and do another boost leak test then probably a compression/leakdown test. Not sure what else to do at this point....
Well its been awhile but I FINALLY put my new turbo (stock EVO7) that I've had sitting around for monthes. After working all day Sat. on it, still won't go over 10#. I'm about ready to drive this car off a cliff
I'm back to square one. Probably going to start over and do another boost leak test then probably a compression/leakdown test. Not sure what else to do at this point....
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