View Poll Results: What motor is my best choise?
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Build a new motor, 4G63 or 4G64? 2.1, 2.3 or 2.4l?
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From: Somewhere on the Planet
Build a new motor, 4G63 or 4G64? 2.1, 2.3 or 2.4l?
What would you choose and why?
I have a Full Race Stage 3GT turbokit (GT35R) and AEM. I need a new motor, not just a stroker kit..
So, what to go with and why? 4G63 block and 2.3L or perhaps a 4G64 with a 2.1 de-strok or a 2.4L?
Please advice me.. I don't whant Eagel crap in my motor... Just good internals..
I have a Full Race Stage 3GT turbokit (GT35R) and AEM. I need a new motor, not just a stroker kit..
So, what to go with and why? 4G63 block and 2.3L or perhaps a 4G64 with a 2.1 de-strok or a 2.4L?
Please advice me.. I don't whant Eagel crap in my motor... Just good internals..
Well, Shep seems to be doing quite well with a race car on Buschur's build. If I remember correctly he's knocked out almost a full season on the same engine with no issues at all.
Personally, I am going to go with the Buschur stroker kit when the day comes. THe AMS kit should be just as good. The most important part, though, is your engine builder. Make sure you have a good one.
For a 2.3 on a 4g63, I'd pick either AMS or Buschur
For a 2.4 or a 2.1, I'd recommend Magnus. www.magnusmotorsports.com
It really depends on what you want the car for. With that turbo, for the street, I'd recommend a 2.3 or 2.4. For the drag strip, I might recommend a built 2.0.
For a 2.4 or a 2.1, I'd recommend Magnus. www.magnusmotorsports.com
It really depends on what you want the car for. With that turbo, for the street, I'd recommend a 2.3 or 2.4. For the drag strip, I might recommend a built 2.0.
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Originally Posted by QuickEvo
Toda Racing 2.2L motor.
To the original poster:
You can't go wrong with any of the options that you've mentioned in you poll. AMS, Magnus, and Buschur are all excellent companies. Go with however is most responsive to your needs. I'm using AMS to build a new 2.0L engine. They are proven and have been excellent to work with and very responsive.
I have seen two cylinder heads come from one of those shops with mismatched cam caps. It makes me highly question the organization of their operation, which is THE most important thing when building a engine, whether it be the shortblock or head.
A few years back an employee of another shop asked whether he could put 1mm over valves in without doing a valve job on another board. Granted there has been some time since then for them to learn, but it makes me worry about their mechanical inclination severly. There is a good chance they are sourcing everything to a machine shop now anyway though.
One thing you may want to consider looking at also is getting a skirt coating. The 100mm stroke brings you to a 1.5 rod ratio, which increases thrust loading on the piston skirt. With the right clearance and surface finish you won't see excessive wear, but you will see the wear sooner than you might with a 2.0. There are a lot of factors that contribute to this, one of the main ones is how frequently the car is cold started. Anyway back to the subject, I've built three 2.4l and two 2.3l DSM engines in the last year. On my engine I tried using a swaintec PC9 skirt coating and "gold" crown coating. I ran it for 2k before coating and pulled the head, had the coating done, and then ran it another 2k. The coated engine showed absoluetly no wear whatsoever on the walls while uncoated you could see some wear of the crosshatching. Talk to your engine builder about it, it's well worth the little $2xx it cost IMHO.
If I didn't build my engines myself I would got to AMS, Magnus, or Buschur personally.
A few years back an employee of another shop asked whether he could put 1mm over valves in without doing a valve job on another board. Granted there has been some time since then for them to learn, but it makes me worry about their mechanical inclination severly. There is a good chance they are sourcing everything to a machine shop now anyway though.
One thing you may want to consider looking at also is getting a skirt coating. The 100mm stroke brings you to a 1.5 rod ratio, which increases thrust loading on the piston skirt. With the right clearance and surface finish you won't see excessive wear, but you will see the wear sooner than you might with a 2.0. There are a lot of factors that contribute to this, one of the main ones is how frequently the car is cold started. Anyway back to the subject, I've built three 2.4l and two 2.3l DSM engines in the last year. On my engine I tried using a swaintec PC9 skirt coating and "gold" crown coating. I ran it for 2k before coating and pulled the head, had the coating done, and then ran it another 2k. The coated engine showed absoluetly no wear whatsoever on the walls while uncoated you could see some wear of the crosshatching. Talk to your engine builder about it, it's well worth the little $2xx it cost IMHO.
If I didn't build my engines myself I would got to AMS, Magnus, or Buschur personally.
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From: Somewhere on the Planet
Originally Posted by NDgsx
I have seen two cylinder heads come from one of those shops with mismatched cam caps. It makes me highly question the organization of their operation, which is THE most important thing when building a engine, whether it be the shortblock or head.
A few years back an employee of another shop asked whether he could put 1mm over valves in without doing a valve job on another board. Granted there has been some time since then for them to learn, but it makes me worry about their mechanical inclination severly. There is a good chance they are sourcing everything to a machine shop now anyway though.
One thing you may want to consider looking at also is getting a skirt coating. The 100mm stroke brings you to a 1.5 rod ratio, which increases thrust loading on the piston skirt. With the right clearance and surface finish you won't see excessive wear, but you will see the wear sooner than you might with a 2.0. There are a lot of factors that contribute to this, one of the main ones is how frequently the car is cold started. Anyway back to the subject, I've built three 2.4l and two 2.3l DSM engines in the last year. On my engine I tried using a swaintec PC9 skirt coating and "gold" crown coating. I ran it for 2k before coating and pulled the head, had the coating done, and then ran it another 2k. The coated engine showed absoluetly no wear whatsoever on the walls while uncoated you could see some wear of the crosshatching. Talk to your engine builder about it, it's well worth the little $2xx it cost IMHO.
If I didn't build my engines myself I would got to AMS, Magnus, or Buschur personally.
A few years back an employee of another shop asked whether he could put 1mm over valves in without doing a valve job on another board. Granted there has been some time since then for them to learn, but it makes me worry about their mechanical inclination severly. There is a good chance they are sourcing everything to a machine shop now anyway though.
One thing you may want to consider looking at also is getting a skirt coating. The 100mm stroke brings you to a 1.5 rod ratio, which increases thrust loading on the piston skirt. With the right clearance and surface finish you won't see excessive wear, but you will see the wear sooner than you might with a 2.0. There are a lot of factors that contribute to this, one of the main ones is how frequently the car is cold started. Anyway back to the subject, I've built three 2.4l and two 2.3l DSM engines in the last year. On my engine I tried using a swaintec PC9 skirt coating and "gold" crown coating. I ran it for 2k before coating and pulled the head, had the coating done, and then ran it another 2k. The coated engine showed absoluetly no wear whatsoever on the walls while uncoated you could see some wear of the crosshatching. Talk to your engine builder about it, it's well worth the little $2xx it cost IMHO.
If I didn't build my engines myself I would got to AMS, Magnus, or Buschur personally.
That coating you are talking about sounds intresting.
Is there any other thing I shall look for?
SlowBoyRacing knifeedges there cranks, does any one else do that? They also have this Girdle as a option, that seames like a good thing.
Please advice me futher.
Originally Posted by 3240
Bad call. The rods in the Toda kit aren't very strong. I used the Toda kit and had to replace the rods with Pauter. The Toda stroker pistons are excellent and the crank is decent (4g64 crank polished and balanced), but overall the kit is over priced and not as good as the domestic stroker setups that you can buy today.
To the original poster:
You can't go wrong with any of the options that you've mentioned in you poll. AMS, Magnus, and Buschur are all excellent companies. Go with however is most responsive to your needs. I'm using AMS to build a new 2.0L engine. They are proven and have been excellent to work with and very responsive.
To the original poster:
You can't go wrong with any of the options that you've mentioned in you poll. AMS, Magnus, and Buschur are all excellent companies. Go with however is most responsive to your needs. I'm using AMS to build a new 2.0L engine. They are proven and have been excellent to work with and very responsive.
Originally Posted by QuickEvo
I wasnt talking about the kit. I was talking about the full on race motor. I never had any problems out of the 2.2 in my SR20. Also, you may notice the guy looking for this info is after a full motor, not just a stroker kit. I would not think that there is any difference in the stroker kits from the race motors quality wise. I like your comment on how the crank is decent. It's the same crank that goes into all these 2.3 and 2.4 domestic stroker kits.
TODA RACE ENGINES ARE NOT AVAILABLE FOR SALE. THEY ARE ONLY AVAILABLE IN JAPAN ON LEASE TERMS TO PROFESSIONAL TEAMS COMPETING IN FIA SANCTIONED RACING SERIES.
THESE ENGINES WILL NOT FIT YOUR STREET CAR.
Originally Posted by QuickEvo
I wasnt talking about the kit. I was talking about the full on race motor. I never had any problems out of the 2.2 in my SR20. Also, you may notice the guy looking for this info is after a full motor, not just a stroker kit. I would not think that there is any difference in the stroker kits from the race motors quality wise. I like your comment on how the crank is decent. It's the same crank that goes into all these 2.3 and 2.4 domestic stroker kits.
Yes, Toda does use the stock 4g64 crank in their stroker kit as you stated in your post. Is it true that the stock 4g64 crank is cast while the stock 4g63 crank is forged? Just curious.
The domestic stroker kits available today are superior to the Toda kit in value. The big issue with the Toda stroker kit is "bang for the buck." You get great pistons, a decent 4g64 100mm crank but the rods are weaker than the stock Evo rods. All for the competitive (j/k) price of only $3200.00. Add some decent rods to the price and you have a $4,000 stroker kit on your hands. You're better off going with someone else.
Last edited by 3240; Oct 24, 2005 at 09:24 AM.




















