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Say no to ARP.

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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 06:46 AM
  #31  
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Thumbs down

ahaha, funny, it's so obvious somone jacked warrtalon's s/n. kids.....
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 07:10 AM
  #32  
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Someone HAD to be messing with his account. I know the mods have him walking on eggshells; "focus grasshopper! With practice, you too will be able to master the art of meaningful internet dialogue!" I just can't believe he was dumb enough to post something like that. I guess anything is possible but it doesn't sound like him. Grammar is incorrect mid-sentece. His account got hacked.
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 07:30 AM
  #33  
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It is not hacked, look at the join date and the "_" after the nick name
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 07:43 AM
  #34  
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thats why i had a professional do mines with the cams. didn't want to chance it. they pulled the head and i just added a nicer headgasket as well. 15k miles with the arp headstuds so far. no leaks or anything. Hopefully i'll never have to pull the head off for a long time.
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 10:15 AM
  #35  
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Several members on here have done the 1x1 method including myself with great success. I dont think you torqued them high enough when you installed them. Most people are torquing the final sequence to about 85 ft. lbs. Installer error not ARP failure!!
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 10:58 AM
  #36  
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Some Evos leak oil at the head-to-block area on the intake side of #3 and #4 cyl. This I have personally seen on Evos with ARP studs as well as Evos with stock bolts. I have done headstuds with great success as well as some that seep oil a bit. I really dont think it has anything to do with the ARP studs, simply an area that is a common leak on Evos. Installation is straightforward with 1x1, cant see any f*ck ups unless you dont torque properly.
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 01:24 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by KTT
Why not blame Mobil? After all they made the oil that is leaking out of the head gasket....
Damn that slippery oil!
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 02:19 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by superz
Some Evos leak oil at the head-to-block area on the intake side of #3 and #4 cyl. This I have personally seen on Evos with ARP studs as well as Evos with stock bolts. I have done headstuds with great success as well as some that seep oil a bit. I really dont think it has anything to do with the ARP studs, simply an area that is a common leak on Evos. Installation is straightforward with 1x1, cant see any f*ck ups unless you dont torque properly.
what do you torque them too
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 02:37 PM
  #39  
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IIRC the instructions say to cycle torque each stud 5 times...meaning loosen and retorque 5 times.
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 02:57 PM
  #40  
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Take shortcuts and pay the consequences. I did it myself and I knew better. I listened to those who seemed to know better and it turned out that they knew nothing. The only right way to do this job is to take the head off. When I customer asks me to do it this way I tell them what may happen and demand that they sign a waiver. If you want to play you gotta pay!
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 04:12 PM
  #41  
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Unfortunately, it is a fact that there are always more than one way to do things. One can do it the easy way and hope for the best, or do it the right way and know that it is right.

I would check the calibration of your Torque Wrench too. Even at 75# you shouldn't be experiencing leaks at your level of modification.
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 07:43 PM
  #42  
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I torque down to 90ftlbs in 2 steps. Ok, the obvious answer to having no leaks is to do them "the right way", well it doesnt work that way. I have seen this leak on BONE STOCK Evos with no cams or headstuds. I have also seen this leak on an Evo with the headstuds "done right" with a fresh shave on the head. I have seen this same leak on engines built by reputable shops. This has shown me that it is not a matter of doing them one way or another. I believe that Zeus can chime in on this similar experience.
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 07:53 PM
  #43  
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We have done 35-40 stud jobs by the 1x1 method. No leaks.

We did have one that would not torque to 70 ft-lbs and cracked. That was the only problem. Since then we are nervous about exceeding 70-75ft-lbs. Torqued the shopcar to 88ft-lbs. Evidently you DO NOT get any additional clamping force however with higher than specified tq specs.
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 08:47 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by DSMotorsport
I said I wan't going to change to ARP head studs untill I had to. Ended up stretching the stock head bolts runing 35psi on a GT35R making about 530whp. The stock HG blew out the middle layer (stock 3 layer metal hg). IMHO it's a risk to change them 1 at a time, and no reason to do it unless your pushing serious power (certainly no risk with stock turbo). ARP's are not going to save your HG from a tuning mistake and detonation, so why change them before you are at the limit of cyl pressure that will stretch stock bolts.

Have you pulled your new ARP's and confirmed they are indeed stretched? That's the only mode of failure for a simple thing like a bolt. If the ARP's are still in tolernce for length, then it was an installation error that blew your HG, not the ARP hardware failing.

There is always a risk with HG sealing, I have had new gasket with ARP's torqued to spec on freshly cut head and block surfaces not seal. Why? spec of dirt, mistaken click on torque wrench? defect HG? scratched head on reinstall? Just saying that poor results happen sometimes even when they shouldn't, and it's ususally not the fault of the product.

Pull all 10 studs out and prove one is stretched. If there not, you have noone to blame but yourself for the HG leak.
So with the stock turbo there is no reason to get the headstuds? Maybe I won't waste the money on that now then.
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 04:43 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by superz
I torque down to 90ftlbs in 2 steps. Ok, the obvious answer to having no leaks is to do them "the right way", well it doesnt work that way. I have seen this leak on BONE STOCK Evos with no cams or headstuds. I have also seen this leak on an Evo with the headstuds "done right" with a fresh shave on the head. I have seen this same leak on engines built by reputable shops. This has shown me that it is not a matter of doing them one way or another. I believe that Zeus can chime in on this similar experience.
That is a fact... I've seen just as many leaks with OE bolts as I have ARP headstuds done by any method...
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