I had no problem with mine and I have 7000 miles on them

 

I have 445.1 reasons why studs are a good idea.

 

I just go by the mentality of dont fix what isn't broken. If you don't do the studs, you might blow the HG out eventually if the tuning gets off or you make some wicked power.

if you do the 1+1, there is a chance is won't seal and you will have to do a HG job anyway.

Then there's a chance you will do the HG job, freshly cut head, new gasket, and arp's and that won't seal either. Always a chance that you will have problems with you take stuff apart and put it back together.

I say don't bother untill you actually blow the HG the first time, then install the arps when you replce the hg. If the tuning is good and your not making crazy power, chances are your not going to even run into the first HG problem. Why chance it for an upgrade that most likely you dont need and won't see the benifit for?

 

Cylinder pressure on a properly tuned car runs 1600-2100psi. If tuned correctly this 2100psi should occur about 14 degrees after TDC. This is where the engine will make the most power. When you engine detonates there is instantaneous 4000psi. This 4000psi also occurs when the piston is at or near TDC. The piston is not in position to spin the crank. But it is in perfect position to lift the cylinder head off the block. Doesn't matter what kind of studs you have at this point. The arps only serve to limit the amount of lift.

Most certainly the install was not the problem here. Running the engine harder and producing head lift is what has happen.

 

Don't blame this on ARP. It's not the fault of the head stud, I am sure of that.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

Awesome info Sean. We were actually having a discussion about a motor of someone elses not affiliated with TTP, that blew out a freezeplug. We were trying to calculate the psi of a boosted motor 35psi on GT35R with N20 65shot est. Your PSI figure should be fairly close I would assume.

 

yeah i have seen arp studs and bolts used on 800hp muscle cars let alone our inline 4's. its not the company i would be questioning, its the install. i have opted not to change my stockers out , i see many people running them hard with lots of boost for many miles and no problems, so y change them unless u have the head off anyways. i will in the next couple months be running the 20g-g with about 22psi and have no plans on changing the studs, granded i only have 14,000 miles on my 03 but still. its also about how u drive your car. i drive my cars like i was 95 years old, and more just enjoy the power when noone is around instead of beating the **** out of my car everyday for no reason. there is far too much trafic these days to be doing such and im not about to risk my life or anyone elses for a little excitment. sorry got off topic.

 

With all of the trq specs being mentioned, the guys that have brought up having an accurate Trq Wrench really make a good point.

Not knowing if your wrench is in or out of calibration is a lot like using the butt dyno to measure gains, You really don't know if it's accurate.

A cheap, or old, or dropped wrench should always be suspect.

 

did you get a response yet?

 

sounds to me like an installation problem

 

Bah, just checked the MR when changing camgears to red instead of blue for an extra 15whp and ours were still torqued fine. Sounds like a myth. Mythbusters where are you when we need you?

 

haha sounds good, I don't think they need to go through the heat cycle people are talking about, my buddy has used them in all his mustangs and has never retorqued them, one puts down in the 500rwhp range