+1

+1

 

Why not blame Mobil? After all they made the oil that is leaking out of the head gasket....

 

Improperly my ***... show me where it says this method is "unapproved," otherwise unless its from ARP's mouth, which I dont think you work for, then you need to keep your mouth shut. If this method is an approved method for seaworthy components on a nuclear submarine (which I spent five years on) which go to depths in excess of 700 feet, with my life on the line, I am pretty sure its a noteable method. Now as for the re-torque, we should really find out from ARP what the "suggested" number is, because I just installed mine last night, and I definitely do not want to run into this situation. This man did nothing wrong, and for the record ARP's directions say 75 ftlbs when using ARP moly lube.

 

I did mine at 75lbs and didn't retorque, I have since put on 1500 hard *** miles and its still holding up strong, but who knows maybe I should just retorque them when I get a chance

 

Eh, its a bit of a pain, but might as well... JUST to be sure, you know? I wasn't going to either, but I dont need this kind of problem on my plate, so I will probably end up doing it just before the Atlanta dynoflash meet.

 

Also, I just put in an email to ARP tech regarding this situation, and the suggested number of heat cycle/re-torque requirements there are, so we shall see.

 

When doing an install like this remember there is always a chance of something going wrong. There was a thread about this a year or two ago. I think someone from Turbotrix had wrote not to do the 1x1 method. Because of a number of variables. Also remember when doing them 1x1 you are still breaking the factory seal. I guess it could be a 50/50 shot of nothing going wrong (maybe better maybe worse.) If it aint broke dont fix it kinda thing. Also i thik Nate from DSMotorsport had run about 35psi with a 35r before the stockers had streched.

 

Sounds good keep us updated, yea its not a problem for me to do it, I have a shop but its just been so busy, maybe when things slow down I'll redo em

 

Everything I've ever read on tightening head bolts or studs starts with all the bolts loose like you had just laid the head back on the block. Then tightening them to a certain low torque spec staring with the bolt closest to the center of the head and working your way out in a clockwise pattern. Then stepping up to the final torque and tightening them in the same pattern.

I think pretty much everyone agrees the 1 by 1 method is a shortcut that may save you time or may not if you have to re-do the job.

I definitely would not blame ARP for your problems as thread title makes it sound.

 

I did the one by one ,followed mits. torq.specs for replacement order. I used apr lube
torq to75lbs ,never retorqued.I did this at 16000 when I did the cams. Now I have
a GT35R running 28 psi did that at 47000 mls. Today I have over 59000 mls on it with
no head gasket problems

 

i torqued mine to 90 ft-lb (a little high) and didn't retorque. i had to replace the short block, so i got a new gasket and checked the head for flatness. it didn't need to be milled.

 

he has a bad torque wrench. end of story.

 

I said I wan't going to change to ARP head studs untill I had to. Ended up stretching the stock head bolts runing 35psi on a GT35R making about 530whp. The stock HG blew out the middle layer (stock 3 layer metal hg). IMHO it's a risk to change them 1 at a time, and no reason to do it unless your pushing serious power (certainly no risk with stock turbo). ARP's are not going to save your HG from a tuning mistake and detonation, so why change them before you are at the limit of cyl pressure that will stretch stock bolts.

Have you pulled your new ARP's and confirmed they are indeed stretched? That's the only mode of failure for a simple thing like a bolt. If the ARP's are still in tolernce for length, then it was an installation error that blew your HG, not the ARP hardware failing.

There is always a risk with HG sealing, I have had new gasket with ARP's torqued to spec on freshly cut head and block surfaces not seal. Why? spec of dirt, mistaken click on torque wrench? defect HG? scratched head on reinstall? Just saying that poor results happen sometimes even when they shouldn't, and it's ususally not the fault of the product.

Pull all 10 studs out and prove one is stretched. If there not, you have noone to blame but yourself for the HG leak.

 

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Aren't those changed as a replacement for doing other work on the engine that require their removal?