Well after doing extensive research, I was very hesitant to install ARP headstuds......... first off, there are no real threads showing that the stock head studs will stretch...... But everyone says install them for 'cheap insurance'. So I decided to do so. I used the 1x1 method, and torque them 75 ft/lb using arp's moly lube......... Re-torque them after 1 heat cycle (as recommended)......... Guess what? 500 miles later I have a nice oil leak from my head gasket........ Thanks ARP!!!

 

torque them higher

 

How does this have anything to do with ARP products? The correct way to install studs is to pull the head, verify straightness and machine if needed. Not the 1x1. 75# is a lil low.

The 1x1 method is the cheating method. It may work, it may not. It's the chance you take.

 

hey bolsen, whats the method that they should be done?

 

Yea I agree with you.

I would never do the "1x1 method" on any of my cars. The correct way and the only way to do it is to remove the head, get it checked, cleaned, and resurfaced. Install the ARPs, install new gasket, and torque them according to ARPs specs.

ALso, All bolts stretch, thats not just a theory, its fact. There are stretch limits in your service manual for the head bolts.

 

i did mine the 1x1 method with the supplied molylube on the washer and head of the stud. i also used loctite on the studs themselves so they wouldnt back out as suggested by ARP. worked fine for me-no leaks. although i did torque them to 80ft-lbs, and retorqued them an hour later to make sure they stayed at 80ft-lbs. didnt heat cycle, just retorqued.

 

Exactly! Removing the head bolts in the proper order and and checking for head warpage first and then installing the new hardware in the right order again is the perscribed method of doing it. Thats if you want it done correctly. Ive used ARP products on many occasions and they are the best by far.

 

Stock headbolts here and they aren't getting replaced until A. I pull the head off the car or B. They stretch and blow the headgasket. So far I have 12k miles w/ my current power level on the stockers and everything is perfectly fine.

 

I think you are supposed to go through few heat cycles and retorque them few times. Not, just 1 time. stock head bolts are fine up to 400 whp. personally, I won't touch them untill I make a lot of horse power.
I will do it eventually after like 5 years when engine gets old and stockers are streched enough. However, By that time, I might go with the stroker kit and change everything at the same time

 

I did the 1x1 method without any problems.
Just make sure to use plenty of arp molylube on the washer/nut and torque them to 85#. Heat cycle once staying off boost. Cool down engine until stone cold, then re-torque.
I think the few people who had leaking problems were torqued too low.

 

I also, dont see how this is an ARP issue. I have them, but knew better then to do them my self! Sorry to hear about it!

 

Heres the original thread about stretching head studs that everyone says they can't find.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...wn+head+gasket

 

ARP products may be great, but anytime you replace a stock componenet, especially on something as complicated as the engine, your rolling the die. I don't care who does the install, who checks the work, etc, there is always a possibility of f-ing it up.

Some people think that the best way to get a reliable car is to put the best products in it. Thats only half the equation. Its also about minimizing complexity.

The point I'm making im making is NOT that these are bad procucts. On the contrary. However, when you fool with well developed working parts, you take a risk. Which is why I don't subscibe to the belief that people should just buy stuff as "cheap insurance" just in case.

Anytime you put on an aftermarket product, you have to weigh the potential costs vs benefits. In this case, your weighing the slight (and very unproven) chance of stretching your stock head studs vs possible ARP installation error and failure.

Until someone shows me metallugy studies or some sort of a scientific performance analysis, I will always be skeptical of these things at most of the common power levels power levels seen with the stock turbo. And the phrase, "hey, why not, theyre only 85 bucks and you already have the valve cover off..." is not going to cut it, for me anyway.

 

Dang ARP making you install those headstuds improperly

Seriously tho.. why bother unless your doing something else like installing cams?

 

i don't understand why you are complaining about arp's product when you didn't even install them right. You knew there where risks involved by installing them one by one. the topic of this thread should be "say no to installing one by one".