I would imagine that TT takes pretty good care of their equipment and maintains a record of when the WBO2 is calibrated or replaced, as all good shops do. If their O2 was really that far out I think that it would be safe to say that they might have some unhappy customers, which DOES NOT seem to be the case.

 

How do they tune cars if they don't have an accurate WBO2? I knolw that is a major part of their business, so it must have just broke, or something wierd is going on.

 

Leaded race gas will wear out a wideband O2. When it starts to go, you can get inaccurate readings even after calibrating it so something weird can and does happen from time to time.

 

Actually it does. I pulled the vaccum line off of the valve while it was rattling and it magically dissappeared.

 

It does that at idle because the engine vacuum is low. IF you bump the idle up it will rarely do it. My car does the same thing but I know it doesn't affect he knock sensor because the Knocklink at full sensativity doesn't pick it up.

 

The reason I mentioned the noise is not due to the power pd1's car was making, but because he said the cams were noisy with the camgears set at 0-0.

 

My Revolver Cams/Valvetrain are being installed this weekend and Franz @ KTR Performance will be tuning the vehicle via ECUTeK on Thurs. March 30th...I'll post results to settle the debate because my car is very mild in mods...stock turbo, stock i/c...just 255lph, 680cc injectors, manifold, o2 housing, tbe, buschur licp, k&n drop in, fidanza gears set to -2/0 as recommended by Revolver/KTR

 

My camgears are set to 0-0 with the Revolvers and make no noise. I have the Revolver springs and retainers too.

 

If it is the Franz I think it is, you won't be disappointed. If he is a tall lanky guy tell him I said hi. I met him at SEMA this year.

 

I also have a set of revolvers installed straight up, no valvetrain noise.

 

Do anyone know the phone No. of Revolver, except the one on their website, as I am trying for more than a week to contact them, and no reply yet!

 

I just reread this whole ordeal. I have something to add to this thread that I think is relevant. A local hear just made 600whp on a 35r with brian crower 280s. His only compaint was how late the power was hitting. I suggested he try advancing the cams a couple of degrees to see if that would help. When he tryed advancing the intake cam 2 degrees he said it made a loud valvetrain noise. I told him to bring the car over I want to hear this noise. The noise sounded like valves tapping. But they were no where near hitting. If they hit the car wouldn't run after that. We inspected with borescope to confirm valves where no where near contact. After checking timing over and over only to confirm all appeared assembled/timed correctly, we finally retarded the intake cam one tooth. This allowed us to retard and advance the intake cam 4 degrees without making noise. At this point I suggested we not play with the timing any furthur till he could degree the cams. Unfortunately that never happen and setup was changed in favor of smaller cams and turbo. But it is my belief that this was a cam timing issue. As I believe was the case with PD1s car. Likely the cam gears where off as even with the hks 264 cams the power gain was not there. Just a theory but makes the most sense. Especially after hearing a car with likely the same valvetrain noise decribed in this thread.

 

I appreciate your input on this, but it wasn't the cam gears. Unorthodox Racing makes one of the best (if not the best) cam gear that money can buy. The same gears made power with my Helix 272s. The same gears didn't cause a hint of noise with the Helix cams nor the HKS 264s. If you look at the pictures I posted, you can see that everything lines up as it should when the cam gears are positioned at 0/0, even the cam angle sensor. I have absolutely no doubt that the cams were causing the valvetrain noise. As soon as they were swapped out, no more noise (on two subsequent sets of cams). Remember, when they were swapped out with another set of Revolvers, the noise remained. It's the cams.

 

Couple of additional thoughts:

1.) You're correct that the cam timing *did* have an impact on the noise. However, the cam settings (especially at 0/0) should not have caused a noise to occur...and didn't cause a noise to occur on 2 other sets of cams (Helix/HKS).

2.) I never did conclude what the noise was (valves tapping or otherwise), but I'm absolutely convinced that the noise was caused by the cams themselves being set at 0/0.

 

i just have to cast some doubt into who installed the cams as i've heard two stories now of cams not working 'right' after this shop installed them.

while the tdc tests would work on the cam gears there's no indication that the cams would be facing the right direction... or something like that.