I'd like to take an opportunity to go over some of the happenings that have taken place over the last few weeks and let everyone in on all of the pertinent information.

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Most of you have probably seen the couple of threads floating around about some sporadic boost spiking and fluctuation issues that a small number of people have experienced when using our UNOS manual boost controller.

I need everyone to be aware that these issues are firstly isolated incidents, secondly that we have worked with all of those individuals to remedy the problems, and thirdly that if anyone else happens to experience a problem, ALL of our products come with a lifetime warranty ensuring that we WILL, without fail, take care of the issues to your satisfaction.

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With that said, the nature of the problems appears to be very simple and easily remedied.

It appears that when the units are assembled, either before or after the polishing and/or anodizing is complete, that some sort of "gunk" or material is adhering to the units both at and around the ball seat on the inside of the unit, and also inside the secondary bleed hole on the back of the units.

If anyone notices that their UNOS MBC is not appropriately free of this "gunk" or material, I'd like to recommend that you take the appropriate steps to clean the unit or contact us and we will work with you to resolve that particular problem.

Once cleaned, it MAY also be necessary to apply a small amount of fully synthetic bearing grease to the ball inside of the unit. If this is not something that you have access to or you would like some recommendations on where to find some, please contact us and again, we will work with you to resolve this as well.

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Now, along those lines, we are currently working on a very large production run of both Black and Polished units to ready in the upcoming weeks, and I want to ensure everyone that we will be taking the appropriate steps to ensure that all of the units are properly cleaned and lubricated before any units will ship out.

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I hope everyone understands that this does not mean there is any functional problem with the units, and that there is no reason for them to be considered faulty nor insufficient in any way.

The nature of the problem is only that the units appear to be "dirty" and require a quick "cleaning" to alieviate any possible or potential problems.

Again, ALL Forge Motorsport products come with a lifetime warranty against defects and failures, so if anyone is experiencing a legitimate problem not related to this particular issue, please contact you local or preferred Forge Motorsport dealer or contact us directly and we will work with you to resolve any and all problems.

407-447-5363
sales@forgemotorsport.com

 

Bump for an awesome product and vendor

 

Mike,
2 questions.

1) Can you recommend a cleaner that won't harm the anodize? Normal dish soap and water? Glass cleaner? Brake cleaner? Simple Green?

2) Can you give specific brand/product info for the grease? Where to buy?

I've got some black moly wheel bearing grease, will that work? Specifics would be helpful.

Thanks,
John

 

1: We have been cleaning the units with Dawn dish soap and paper towels. It MAY be necessary to use a Q-tip or some other type of "probe" device to get into the smaller cavity of the unit and clean it most effectively, but just some soap a water should be sufficient.

2: Any grease that is fully synthetic in nature will work perfectly fine. Any petroleum based grease, white lithium grease, motor oil or any spray in lubricants are discouraged.

We supply all of our products that require lubrication (valves, etc.) with a Mobil1 fully synthetic bearing grease which is red in color. Typically for dump valve applications, we recommend to service the component (ie: clean and change the grease) no less frequently than every 20,000 miles or so, but it is highly likely that the ball and spring mechanism in the Unos will be able to go for longer periods of time between regreasings.

 

It is certainly refreshing to see a vendor back their product like you do. I personally called Forge with a different question on your WGA and found the person I spoke to extremely helpful.

My question is for all of us who have the UNOS and have not experienced any problem. Should we be taking these units apart to clean and grease or just leave alone until we experience problem or hit 20000 miles?

 

Mike,
Thanks for the info. The only thing I find odd is that the black anodized MBC I just got doesn't have any lube on the ball or spring. The passages however look nice and clean and the anodize is very nice.

John

 

Mr. MR

If yourself or anyone else HAS NOT experienced a problem, it is not necessary to take the units apart to clean them, but it can also not hurt to do so just in case.

kekek

All of the units we have sold/supplied up until have not been supplied with any grease. This is something that we have recently decided to start doing. You will not necessarily even require it if you are net yet having problems, but along with my comment above, it can't hurt to clean it and apply a small amount of grease just in case.

 

Great news Mike, even though it took us (the few that had the spike issue) some time to find the solution, once we found it it was really easy to apply it. It's been around a month or so and I have not seen one single boost spike. One q-tip and some synthetic ballbearing grease (from any autopart) is all we needed.

Now I understand why this MBC is considered the best one on the market (for the Evo), on my car it goes straight to my dialed PSI and stays there up to redline, no drop at all. Pretty consistent in all gears, I'm glad I bought the Unos.

 

I just installed mine tonight. I cleaned it out as recommended and greased the inside as well. Holds boost like a champ. No drop off at all. Great product!

 

Bump for more people with questions to see this!

If anyone still has any questions, post up or PM me!

 

Ok, because this topic is continuously being brought up over and over and over again with an apparent disregard for any collecting of factual information before negative posts are made about us or our products, I'm going to bump this thread twice a day, every day for the next two weeks until everyone has an opportunity to see it.

THE UNOS IS NOT FAULTY

The overboosting problems that everyone is so unnecessarily worried about has only been experienced by a small number of individuals that happen to be members of this forum and post about their experiences, so in theory, there seems to be a bigger problem than there actually is.

As I have mentioned countless times before, we have been contacted by roughly 10 individuals who have experienced this overboosting problem. Period.

10 units out over 500 sold within the Evo community in the U.S. alone is a pretty small number of problems. This number does not take into account the 100 or so units used in the Subaru, Porsche, VW, and Audi communities to date.

Another point is that these issues are SOLELY caused by a buildup of polishing "material" or "debrit" on the inside surface of the units and inside the secondary bleed hole. PERIOD. The units are not improperly machined nor is there a problem with there design. This issue is solely related to A FEW units essentially being "dirty". That is all.

This issue is easily remedied by cleaning the inside of the units and ensuring that the secondary bleed holw is free of any "clogs". There is no reason for there to be any issues after those steps are taken.

If there are, the unit can be exchanged for a new one, or returned for a full refund without question. You will be very hard pressed to see that offered by any manufacturer of any aftermarket performance product almost anywhere.

We have taken proactive steps to ensure that our production and assembly processes for the Unos is now done in a "cleanroom" type of area with extra steps taken to ensure that all the units and individual components are free from debrit and any and all other possible problems before being assembled and shipped from the UK.

 

My Hallman does that occasionally, at first I though it was the ball not seating, then I realized the port on the barbed fitting of mbc was facing upward and collected enough crud to clog so the WG act sticks open.

The problem a clogged bleed port causes is: Initially boosting to whatever the set mbc spring tension (19, 28, whatever) - desired or not, and any following attemps result in an allready opened WG pressure -13psi or so.


Anyhow, I just wanted to stress that the clogged port does not directly cause overboosting. Inadvertant high setting of MBC from adjusting with an opened WG does.

 

Okay, since I was the one to bring it up again, I'll call you out on your "the unos is not faulty." First off, the unos IS faulty if there is any issue with it. And it just so happens that being dirty is definately an issue with a product. It could've blown up all of our car's! How is that not "faulty?" Secondly, a bleed hole being dirty and clogged will never cause an overboost spike under any circumstances. The purpose of a bleed hole is to bleed off boost pressure so that the wastegate does not see it. With a clogged bleed hole, the Wastegate see's all boost pressure!!! So without a bleed hole, the wastegate will 100% open much sooner than if you had an unclogged bleed hole. The real issue is the ball getting stuck in the head of the mbc! That is the issue! That will cause no boost to reach the wastegate, therefore, it will never open and the turbo will continue to spool up until you let off of the throttle. Or your engine blows up because you bought a $hitty a$$ product!

 

We've offered you every opportunity and option to have the issue remedied via multiple methods. What you decide to do from here is up to you.

Have a nice day!

 

All I want to do from here, is have you guys admit that your product is faulty. That's all. I don't want to see anyone else waste their money as I have.