Buschur Racing dyno day results and observations.....
Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu
I'm not arguing with you Al. I just would like to find out who was the original owner. You mentioned last week that you would get to the bottom of it. I just find it a little odd that it was first referred to it as a car that I personally tuned. then it became a mail-in reflash. And now it is supposed to be a mail-in reflash that was configured for another customer/car from 3 years ago. Whatever it is or isn't, it would just be nice to have a little closure on the subject. If not, that's cool too. Just as long as the customer is happy 
shiv
shiv
This Vishnu Stage II kit for th WRX is a $3700 plus package and it includes the following parts :
Stage Two (v350)
Includes:
Vishnu Reprogrammed ECU
Standard Series 3” Cat-Back Exhaust
Standard Series 3-inch Down-Pipe with High-Flow Catalyst VF34 Turbocharger STi 550cc Injectors High Flow Fuel Pump (not shown) Flex Uppipe Kit Power Pulley Kit
Performance:
0-60mph in 4.2 seconds
Standing ¼ mile in 12.6 seconds at 108mph
Installation difficulty:
Intermediate
Estimated Installation Time:
6-7 hours
Price:
$3375 with Standard Turbo-Back Exhaust (shown)
$3975 with Signature Turbo-Back Exhaust
Includes:
Vishnu Reprogrammed ECU
Standard Series 3” Cat-Back Exhaust
Standard Series 3-inch Down-Pipe with High-Flow Catalyst VF34 Turbocharger STi 550cc Injectors High Flow Fuel Pump (not shown) Flex Uppipe Kit Power Pulley Kit
Performance:
0-60mph in 4.2 seconds
Standing ¼ mile in 12.6 seconds at 108mph
Installation difficulty:
Intermediate
Estimated Installation Time:
6-7 hours
Price:
$3375 with Standard Turbo-Back Exhaust (shown)
$3975 with Signature Turbo-Back Exhaust
It includes one of these puppies -
which Turbo XS used to go high 11's with back in the day I used to have a WRX
With the large top mount Vishnu ic on this car I would epxect at least 310 whp on a dyno jet or about 250 on Buschur's mustang dyno
To me the "signature" exhuast was fairly restrictive
185 whp out of this kit was very dissapointing - especially when it promises "350 hp" what ever that means
More salt Al, more salt. Back to the topic, can I be a moderator for a day? I would start issuing fines, or free tunes. 
Lets get out the Jello pit!
Can you flash the 280's Al? with my mods?
Lets get out the Jello pit! Can you flash the 280's Al? with my mods?
Last edited by smokedmustang; Feb 5, 2006 at 06:03 PM.
Originally Posted by smokedmustang
Al, Is there anyway you will be able to tune the 280's with just a flash? or is there still work to be done on that front?
Some customers with cams have actually requested to return to the lumpy rough idle as they prefer that sound. I dont.
The bottom line is that I would suggest at least a 272 intake for those who intend to run a MAF sensor equiped car. The vacum goes a bit low for a consistant idle with the 280 intake, since the acceptability of the idle is a subjective judgement, I would err on the conservative side and suggest the 272 intake with my reflash.
Last edited by DynoFlash; Feb 5, 2006 at 06:15 PM.
Originally Posted by DynoFlash
it depends on the car and the mods. I have seen some that idle very very smoothly with the 280's. Others idle rougher. The car of trent this weekend idled very poorly but that was unusual, with the new idle features I have most of them are acceptable. There may have been some complication with that car which made it harder to get to idle smoothly - but I did not have the time to dog deeper.
Some customers with cams have actually requested to return to the lumpy rough idle as they prefer that sound. I dont.
The bottom line is that I would suggest at least a 272 intake for those who intend to run a MAF sensor equiped car. The vacum goes a bit low for a consistant idle with the 280 intake, since the acceptability of the idle is a subjective judgement, I would err on the conservative side and suggest the 272 intake with my reflash.
Some customers with cams have actually requested to return to the lumpy rough idle as they prefer that sound. I dont.
The bottom line is that I would suggest at least a 272 intake for those who intend to run a MAF sensor equiped car. The vacum goes a bit low for a consistant idle with the 280 intake, since the acceptability of the idle is a subjective judgement, I would err on the conservative side and suggest the 272 intake with my reflash.
Originally Posted by justchil
Amen on checking things BEFORE you dyno.
I've always thought of this as common courtesy. I check EVERYTHING I possibly can before heading to Buschur. Buschur has a really nice facility so it makes the wait a lot easier.
I'm 99.9% sure I have 0 boost leaks what so ever. I upgraded to Tbolt clamps on everything except the lower pipe. On the LICP I used a large amount of silicone under the coupler so I doubt it's going to leak.
I really think my problem lies in with the milage and abuse I've put the motor through. As soon as I can find someone to loan me a compression test "kit" for a day I'll get that checked out. I'm also going pull the radiator out next weekend and inspect my turbo install to insure there are no leaks anywhere but I'm confident in my install.
Dave and Al: is there anything you would recommend I check into? I want to build the motor bad but.. I have to get rotors and TRE tranny/transer done first so funds are limited.
Again I'm VERY VERY happy with the car so please don't take this the wrong way
Also: I just got back in from testing out launch control/2step (whatever it's called)... AWESOME. I build about 7psi from the launch and the car takes off like a rocket
I've always thought of this as common courtesy. I check EVERYTHING I possibly can before heading to Buschur. Buschur has a really nice facility so it makes the wait a lot easier.
I'm 99.9% sure I have 0 boost leaks what so ever. I upgraded to Tbolt clamps on everything except the lower pipe. On the LICP I used a large amount of silicone under the coupler so I doubt it's going to leak.
I really think my problem lies in with the milage and abuse I've put the motor through. As soon as I can find someone to loan me a compression test "kit" for a day I'll get that checked out. I'm also going pull the radiator out next weekend and inspect my turbo install to insure there are no leaks anywhere but I'm confident in my install.
Dave and Al: is there anything you would recommend I check into? I want to build the motor bad but.. I have to get rotors and TRE tranny/transer done first so funds are limited.
Again I'm VERY VERY happy with the car so please don't take this the wrong way
Also: I just got back in from testing out launch control/2step (whatever it's called)... AWESOME. I build about 7psi from the launch and the car takes off like a rocket
Originally Posted by DynoFlash
The bottom line is that I would suggest at least a 272 intake for those who intend to run a MAF sensor equiped car. The vacum goes a bit low for a consistant idle with the 280 intake, since the acceptability of the idle is a subjective judgement, I would err on the conservative side and suggest the 272 intake with my reflash.
Originally Posted by TwStDeVo
so with your custom flash you would recommend 272/280 instead of 280/280?
Originally Posted by DynoFlash
On the stock turbo I actually suggest the 272 / 272 bue the 272 / 280 wil idle well on most cars
Originally Posted by EVO8LTW
Dave Buschur got over 20 whp from switching from 272/272 to 280/280 on the stock turbo. Would those gains not be there on a flash? Or do you just recommend staying away because the idle is too unstable with a MAF?
With a MAF sesnsor car it is tough to get a smooth idle with long duration cams
lately I have had some good success on cars with 280 hks cams but I would advise that people considering using the stock MAF meter to consider a 272 intake
Originally Posted by davidbuschur
Gary brought in his EVO8. This car was tuned last year by Al on the street and was then sold to Gary. It is a BR Stage 4 with 272 cams. Nothing else. The tune was so good that it was the only car we did not re-tune. Anyone that says street tuning isn't good.........well let's just say there were plenty of witnesses to a perfectly flat 11.4 AFR, boost at 20 psi and 280 whp.
Until you try to advance the timing and find how far away the knock threshold is for that particular car for that particular fuel, do you really know whether there is HP left on the table?
I'm of course not suggesting that it's wise to eek out every degree of timing that the car can stand on that particular day, but unless you test the limits somewhat, how do you even know where the knock threshold is?
It could be that the car was very far away from its limits and lots of HP was left on the table, or, conversely, it could be that the car was right on the edge of detonation and needed to be retarded a bit for safety.
Isn't that all part of getting a car-specific custom tune? Given production variances in Evos and knock resistance differences from car to car, I can't see any other way to approach the tuning process?
Originally Posted by DynoFlash
I have not seen the 280 hks cams making 20 more whp than 272 hks on stock head stock turbo cars I am not sure what kind of car was being tested with the results you are citing
Originally Posted by davidbuschur
Lift is the same, duration is changed. We took some measurements today at the machine shop in reference to the other thread about the contact problem. There isn't a problem.
These 280 lift cams are LOPEY LOPEY LOPEY. I am sure someone will put them in a flashed, afc or stock EVO sooner or later but to be honest I cannot imagine the idle being that great.
There is an absolute horsepower increase. Right out of the box and into the car it picked up 15 whp or there about.
The turbo in this car is just flat out done and out of wind. It will NOT maintain any high boost levels at all. We tried three different boost controllers, no change. We even tightened the wastegate actuator all the way down today to try and maintain more boost at redline and have less of a spike. No matter what nothing works, it is just under turbo'd now.
Once again the car spiked way over 400 whp on the tire spin and boost spikes I was getting but would settle down.
The last two runs I tightened the straps as tight as I could (believe me, that's tight) and dropped the boost to what I think is "reasonable". The boost would spike to 24 psi and then by redline it was down to 18 psi. If I could tune this car with a turbo that would keep up and just run a steady 20 psi the power would be unbelievable.
So here is what has happened the last few days:
Added the ported/coated exhuast components to the car 361 whp (341 at redline) 367 ft lbs
Added the clipped stock turbo to the car 358 whp (341 at redline) 361 ft lbs
Added the 280 degree HKS cams to the car 382.4 whp (358 at redline) 368 ft lbs.
The cams themselves did not allow this huge gain in power. As I said just dropping them in gained about 15 whp. The extra came from some additional tuning. The car needed more fuel with these cams from about 3600 rpm up to redline and then I was also able to add another 1-2 degrees of timing throughout the entire curve. Total HP gained was 24.4 and only 7 ft lbs of torque.
It's been a good week. 300+ dyno runs on the RS. NO signs of any head gasket pushing water, no plugs burnt off nothing. I don't want to blow my own horn but I am very proud of fact that I have been able to make this much power on a honest 94 octane fuel.
We are talking about a stock appearing EVO here laying down 382 whp on 94 octane fuel. That is mid-11's with a good driver in the car.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
These 280 lift cams are LOPEY LOPEY LOPEY. I am sure someone will put them in a flashed, afc or stock EVO sooner or later but to be honest I cannot imagine the idle being that great.
There is an absolute horsepower increase. Right out of the box and into the car it picked up 15 whp or there about.
The turbo in this car is just flat out done and out of wind. It will NOT maintain any high boost levels at all. We tried three different boost controllers, no change. We even tightened the wastegate actuator all the way down today to try and maintain more boost at redline and have less of a spike. No matter what nothing works, it is just under turbo'd now.
Once again the car spiked way over 400 whp on the tire spin and boost spikes I was getting but would settle down.
The last two runs I tightened the straps as tight as I could (believe me, that's tight) and dropped the boost to what I think is "reasonable". The boost would spike to 24 psi and then by redline it was down to 18 psi. If I could tune this car with a turbo that would keep up and just run a steady 20 psi the power would be unbelievable.
So here is what has happened the last few days:
Added the ported/coated exhuast components to the car 361 whp (341 at redline) 367 ft lbs
Added the clipped stock turbo to the car 358 whp (341 at redline) 361 ft lbs
Added the 280 degree HKS cams to the car 382.4 whp (358 at redline) 368 ft lbs.
The cams themselves did not allow this huge gain in power. As I said just dropping them in gained about 15 whp. The extra came from some additional tuning. The car needed more fuel with these cams from about 3600 rpm up to redline and then I was also able to add another 1-2 degrees of timing throughout the entire curve. Total HP gained was 24.4 and only 7 ft lbs of torque.
It's been a good week. 300+ dyno runs on the RS. NO signs of any head gasket pushing water, no plugs burnt off nothing. I don't want to blow my own horn but I am very proud of fact that I have been able to make this much power on a honest 94 octane fuel.
We are talking about a stock appearing EVO here laying down 382 whp on 94 octane fuel. That is mid-11's with a good driver in the car.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com