Really??

then something is definitely wrong with your coils or ignition wires then

 

That's the point, though. They aren't supposed to last long, which is why they are cheap. Iridiums cost a lot more, because they last longer. I'm not sure you have the same flexibility with them as far as gapping goes, though.

 

Like a couple other people on here at attended the dyno day I was disspointed by the lower power numbers my evo put out but I have no one to blame but the installer, myself. I was very impressed with Dave and Al after finally meeting both in person. They are both very knowledgable and down to earth. I hope the next time Al is in town I will have more on the car and I can get reflashed and put out the figures that I should have before.

Dave about a boost leak tester I have one that I made for my GSX from back in the day should I hook it right up to the turbo and what should I pressurise it to? I'm thinking that my upper intercooler hose is leaking because I have not touched any other pipes and that one has been taken off several times. Also do the vaccum hoses leading from the MBC to the wastegate/turbo have to be extremely tight? They are very tight as is so I don't know how much tighter I can make those. Also for just a stage 1 kit from you what spark plug gap do you suggest?

BTW my Muffler pipe is no longer ready to fall off.

 

...

 

The boost leak can be done by putting the air into the turbo inlet, that is the best way actually. Set it at about 20 psi, by then you usually can find a leak.

The Stage 1 doesn't require any special spark plug gap measurement. Around .028 is where I like to run them.


The hoses to and from the MBC should be tight but usually just sliding on a good fitting vacuum hose like we supply with them is fine, no clamps needed.

Glad to hear you fixed your muffler

Justchil,

It is odd that the AFR's are changing as they really shouldn't with the MAF and a flash for the tune.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

...

 

Weeeee.. sorry to keep bumping this thread with OT material but I picked up a compression check kit today and I found a small oil leak yesterday.. so we'll see what happens.

 

Ok so I should have created a new thread for this crap but I'd like to keep it all together.

I'm amazed at how good my compression was! 50K miles on the car (I change the oil once a month)

170psi - 180psi - 170psi - 170psi

I'm kinda clueless at this point. I'm going to do another boost leaktest although I'm confident that's fine. I'm also going to try to "burp" the coolant or find another means of making sure there is no "pocket of air" anywhere as I've read this can cause issues.

The car is not studdering at all on pump gas.. but the AFR's are just not right. Today it was almost 75f which is crazy for this time of the year. At a few points the AFR was in the 10.1 range which is not good.

Another thing I noticed when putting in yet another set of plugs..

Out of four plugs two of them looked odd to me. If you look at them from the electrode side from the top the arc didn't totally cover the electrode. From the side it appeared the arc was curved while the other two are flat. This was observed BEFORE any gapping or installation.

Could it be the place I'm getting my plugs is getting damaged or is damaging plugs? I'm not sure but you're more than welcome to speculate Check the attached images to see the plugs with about 200-300 miles on them.

Needless to say I'll get another set from someone else.. but my quest to get my baby running 100% will continue. With the weather doing 40+/- temp changes and the car being my only transportation you can see why I get frustrated at times

If nothing else I'm learning more and more about my car. Fell free to throw in any comments/suggestions

 

any thoughts? anyone?

 

They use different additives in pump gas in the wintertime. Depends on your area, but I think there's a higher oxygen content in winter gas.

You're going to drive yourself crazy if you just obsess over a gauge. If it runs fine and it's not knocking, leave it alone.

 

Well if AFR's are in the 10's there has to be something going on. I guess I could just deal with plugs getting fouled, poor gas milage, and lost power.... In that case maybe I should just buy a mustang

 

There is nothing wrong w/ a WOT pull that is in the low 10's. I have been running low 10's for 6,000miles. It's when you get in to the mid 9's is where your plugs will start to foul out. AFR's of 10 on a WOT run has nothing to do w/ fuel economy since you cruise in closed loop fueling. The power loss would be minimal also.

 

I think you're crazy but I guess I'll just learn to deal with it.

 

Son of a b.itch lol.

I found the problem (not sure if this relates to my lower numbers on the dyno or not)

The lower ic pipe coupling has probably had a small hole in it for some time because today it totally tore apart. I thought I just blew one off but everything except the lower pipe has tbolts so I looked there first.

I think I'm going to need something even stronger because the pipe coming at the turbo doesnt meet up perfect with the pipe welded on the fmic.. even when I try to bend the brackets on the fmic I can get it closer but then the "ac condensor lines" (i'm not sure what they are called) get in the way.

So any suggestions guys? I'm definately going to get a stiffer front motor mount to prevent all the movement but I don't want to replace another coupler as they are pretty expensive. I'll also snag some small tbolt clamps to make sure the licp stays snug.

 

What FMIC/lower pipe do you have?