No, you're not, but it's much easier to blame Mitsu and try to scam a free engine instead of being a man and owning up to what you did.

 

are we going to get pics of the piston tops? That will answer ALOT of questions. If you are just going to pull up to Mitsu and have them tear down the enging for "warranty" and there is a lunarscape on the crowns you will have a damn fine and mighty bill on top of an engine replacement.

 

MBCs tend to hold more boost in the cold, because the spring inside is slightly stiffer in cold weather.
This is more common when the car is cold, first few miles of driving.

Stiffer spring= boost spike= boom, or in my case it was a bent rod.
The thing is the car will keep running with a slightly bent rod without you knowing, at the mean time it’s grinding the bearings, and one day without a warning it decides it had enough.

Also don't forget OEM rods have a limit, They were not designed for the amount of power everyone throwing at them.
Having different oil may have helped accelerating the grinding process, but didn’t cause/started it.

 

I never told him to scam mitsu. Go back and read what I wrote before you make blasphemous claims. If it were up to me, i would not mod ANYTHING without changing the fuel pump, let alone mess with the boost, so it's not like i'm telling Stew that he's completely not at fault, however, there is fair evidence to believe that there is something else going on here rather than just fuel issues and detonation problems. Be a man and read what people write before typing next time because your giving yourself the image of being very ignorant person, ok Joe?

 

Read the whole thread and didn't see this covered:

Did you honestly monitor the oil levels between those 5000 mile oil changes? Is it possible your level got low enough to do damage considering our engine's tendency to burn a little oil?

 

If stew was tuned for 20 psi and left his MBC at the same postion, then it got cold and he was running 22.5 psi daily, everyone would agree it is a user error. but to say an exhaust system, tune, intake and a BC that holds the factory 20 lbs voids a warranty is rediculous. USDM evos have the same internals as JDMs (i believe), were tested in Japan under much worse conditions then crusing on the highway, and have more whp then a USDM with the above mods. in other words, these engines were designed to make more power then it comes with when shipped into California. what about the FQs at Medina? i don't see how marginally more power then what YOUR specific evo came with when purchased should void warranties. i cant even imagine how outraged you are that mitsu is warranting Medina's Evos. they are fixing evos that shouldn't have warranties so often, and you shouldn't have to pay for that. since you are familar with the law 4G63, is it entrapment for my dealer to tell me my warranty would not be voided if i get an exhaust system that he recomended, then turn around and void it? under your theory, why does the Magnus-Moss act even exist. i don't see where anything is establsihed if not what everyone else's interpertation is. and 15k is not "letting go early." again, im not blaming anyone in this situation b/c idk what caused Stew's problem. but it certainly wasnt because he made 40 more hp then a stock evo.

if the mod caused the problem, there should be no problem in determining that it did (except like an SAFC into a harness you could unplug). if you do not have the mod on the car, that will not hide the fact that it caused the failure. i would consider that checks and balances as supposed to fraud. or maybe keeping mitsu honest and unbiased. it is much easier to not figure out what the true problem is and blame it on the owner.

 

Initially because people (mostly of more expensive cars) were forced to only maintanence with OEM Air/fuel/Oil filters and fluids at major cost or risk losing their waranty. It was a lobby by consumers and the aftermarket to stop the cabal of scamming manufactures and dealers.

 

What FQ's at Medina? There are only BR 330/350's there. And Medina does not even warrenty the BR Packages, that is Dave's responsibility if something would go wrong.

 

So you take a car that is tuned to the ragged edge from the factory, remove it's abilty to regulate boost for weather/atmospheric conditions and then push timing and fuel even closer to the margin via sketchy "road tuning" data. OK. so it doesn't blow up right away but slowly destructs over 10k, thus absolving the "tunner" and owner of any wrong doing. Nice job people, will pick ip the tab.

 

Trying to guess what would have happened to Stew's car if it was left alone is pointless. If you take the time to actually read the warranty, it says right in there that ANY engine modifications WILL void the factory warranty on the engine. Period.
The "FQ" as you call it is the BR staged packages and do NOT carry a warranty of any kind.

The legal definition of entrapment is:
"In jurisprudence, entrapment is a procedural defense by which a defendant may argue that they should not be held criminally liable for actions which broke the law, because they were induced (or entrapped) by the police to commit said acts. For the defense to be successful, the defendant must demonstrate that the police induced an otherwise unwilling person to commit a crime. However, when a person is predisposed to commit a crime, offering opportunities to commit the crime is not entrapment, such as in the widely held misconception that policemen must answer questions truthfully if they are asked the same question three times, or that they must say "yes" if asked if they are a police officer."

In other words, you're not eligible for "entrapment" unless the dealer tried to sell you some cocaine.

It's simple: Mod your car and wave bye-bye to your warranty.

You can't have your cake and eat it, too. At what point do you say that the warranty is void? 50HP over stock? 60? 70? 200?

 

You realize from your own quote service EXCLUDES racing applications. For the average weekend racer that's enough to deter me from using it.

 

I agree. I got my car tuned (w/ aem ems) on August 29th. 2 weeks later on a cold morning (around 8 am) my motor went. I'm not sure if it was all the cold weather to blame, since I am told that the EMS compensates a little for weather changes, but it could have been a big factor. I was running an Apexi avc-r electronic boost controller aswell, and I had a walboro 255 fuel pump.

The other issue is I had been running around untuned for a while, with basic bolt ons. Then got the 280 cams installed, kept in low boost for a few weeks until I got my tune. The OTHER problem is that I had to go back twice to get my tune fixed, since my exhaust cam gear adjustment came loose, resulting in dumping ALOT of fuel. According to my friend behind me, blowing a constant flame (when I got on it, not knowing what was happening). Then serious bucking issues in idle, that I didnt even experience when I drove around with 280s untuned (car drove stock btw with them in before the tune).

So after a long phone conversation with TT, I suddenly noticed one of the camgears on full positive, loose bolts. So I asked them (TT) if they adjusted the cam gears and tuned for the adjustment, they said no. So I got into this whole fiasco with them about why my camgears resulting in my car running like ****.
So I ended up adjusting them back to 0 degrees and the car ran fine. Drove it back down to TT and got a retune (at -3 cam gear setting I believe). It drove perfectly after that, I even got 2 runs in at the strip the following week.
I had no problems at all after that until the weather started to get colder.


Sorry to hijack but I hope this may help out on your situation aswell.
Good luck.

 

You mean something like this? (the latest brochure) There are about 5 more times where mentions modifying as well. Its pretty much on every page.

 

^

 

Ready.... Set..... VOID WARRANTY