run on torque should really be only applied to nuts with a self locking mechanism. Such as nylon lock nuts or self-locking nuts (these are oval shaped) There is an easy way to figure run-on torque values for each individual bolt. It just takes time. Thread it on by hand until the nut catches and then use a torque wrench with a values small enough to read that minimal torque and keep increasing by one increment (be if ft/lbs or in/lbs) until the nut turns and starts to thread. The torque required to move it then gets added to your base torque.

EX: R.O.T = 15 in/lbs
Req Torq = 30 in/lbs
Total Req = 45in/lbs

 

Glad I could help.

 

I did mine on the car without removing the pistons. I removed them one at a time and replaced them I pushed the old ones up and out. A magnetic pickup tool comes in quite handy for this. Also pull the plugs and front pass tire to be able to move the crank around for access. I did a dyno day (20 pulls) and I have run 2 races since the install plus 1000 miles of street driving. No trouble yet... If I do, a better and stronger setup will go back in.


I torqued to 15 lbs, then loosened and 20, then 25, 30, 35, 37. It is tricky to get the head to line up and had to remove one bolt and re-order a whole set to replace the one because I didn't like a burr that I found on the threads after it didn't seat correctly. It isn't too hard once you get all the stuff removed to get access.

 

good info Cajun, nice to know it is doable w/o tearing down the entire engine. I am thinking about attempting this install when I do cams & head studs.

 

Fantastic info Cajun. Couple of Qs.
1. Aren't the rod bolts pressed in? If not, easy - if so, did you just loosen the nut enough to tap it free?

2. Is there enough room in / around there to use a rod bolt stretch gage?

3. What did you have to remove to get the oil pan out (to get access to all rod bolts) - if you don't mind?

Thanks man!

 

I wouldn't do this in the car as a preventive type job because you might create a problem that you wouldn't have otherwise. You should always have the rod "big end" roundness checked after changing the bolts (unless the cap is doweled) because it's possible that with the new bolts that the cap will shift and be off center- which will screw up your bearing clearances. The rod bolt shank locates the cap unless it's doweled. You can't verify roundness without an inside dial bore gauge. If this makes no sense to you then call ARP and ask re this.

I've never installed ARPs in a 4G63, but the ones I have installed are always a tight press fit into the rod- wouldn't be easy to do in the car. I had one set that wouldn't fit at all and I had to have the holes in the rod reamed out slightly larger