What does it take to rev the evo over 8500 rpm?
Originally Posted by Ted B
All day, until the rings collapse, until the oil pump is thrashed, or until the pistons seize - whichever comes first.
I know of 7 evo's that got a build 2.0L the best of the best in parts and there redline is 9600K. Most of them drag , One guy has a 40R brings his motor up to 9400k and shifts to the next gear well 35000k miles later and being a daily driver the car has not had one motor problem. A motor well done and well taken care of will last you a long time.
Originally Posted by Ludikraut
Agreed, except for the headgasket. You may also want to think about removing your balance shafts.
l8r)
l8r)
8500 RPM - forged rods, arp rod bolts, stiffer valvesprings, stronger retainers. that's all you NEED.
Originally Posted by jmartinez1170
I know of 7 evo's that got a build 2.0L the best of the best in parts and there redline is 9600K. Most of them drag , One guy has a 40R brings his motor up to 9400k and shifts to the next gear well 35000k miles later and being a daily driver the car has not had one motor problem. A motor well done and well taken care of will last you a long time.
Originally Posted by mchuang
Not really, considering the 4g63 has close to same rodstroke ratio as a b16 you can rev to 8500 with no problem. All you may need is arp rod bolts, springs, and retainers. Some people take their motor to 8000 as it is while stock so 500 extra wont require all that you just stated especially since the 2.0l motor has a great rodstroke ratio
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=189580
With the stock turbo I shift at 7k anything past that just loses power. Once I build it out and tune it with a 3076 I will run 8500ish or until the turbo stops making power but I am thinking it should pull to 8000ish.
Originally Posted by NEW2006EVOIX
Be careful not to end up like this guy from revving over stock's redline (7000 rpm).
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=189580
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=189580
lol, TedB knows all even though he has never been in a evo with a build motor that runs 9000+ rpm. Got to love the internet 
I know of 7 evo's that got a build 2.0L the best of the best in parts and there redline is 9600K. Most of them drag , One guy has a 40R brings his motor up to 9400k and shifts to the next gear well 35000k miles later and being a daily driver the car has not had one motor problem. A motor well done and well taken care of will last you a long time.

Originally Posted by jmartinez1170
I know of 7 evo's that got a build 2.0L the best of the best in parts and there redline is 9600K. Most of them drag , One guy has a 40R brings his motor up to 9400k and shifts to the next gear well 35000k miles later and being a daily driver the car has not had one motor problem. A motor well done and well taken care of will last you a long time.
Originally Posted by Atlmethevo
lol, TedB knows all even though he has never been in a evo with a build motor that runs 9000+ rpm. Got to love the internet 

The information I provided is intended to serve as guidance for those who are intelligent enough to consider it, research and verify it on their own, and ultimately use it to their benefit. How you use or abuse your car makes no difference to anyone else, but neither does it warrant that your habits should be applied to anyone else.
Can you rev the 4G to 8k+ with the proper parts...yes
Should you do it on a roadcourse...NO!
Repeated shifting at that RPM for 30-40 mins WILL DESTROY YOUR MOTOR...PERIOD!
I would be willing to guess that you may last about 3-4 track events then it will die a horrible death. High revs for 11-12 seconds is completely different then 30-40 mins on long, hot track sessions.
If you plan to rebuild/check the engine after every track day then I say go for it.
Should you do it on a roadcourse...NO!
Repeated shifting at that RPM for 30-40 mins WILL DESTROY YOUR MOTOR...PERIOD!
I would be willing to guess that you may last about 3-4 track events then it will die a horrible death. High revs for 11-12 seconds is completely different then 30-40 mins on long, hot track sessions.
If you plan to rebuild/check the engine after every track day then I say go for it.
Originally Posted by Ted B
The ultimate determining factor isn't so much the rod/stroke ratio, but the piston speed. A piston speed of 25 m/s is recognized as being about the limit for a properly prepared street driven engine that is expected to deliver reasonable longevity.
Load is the first and real limit for most anyone.
This whole thread is getting silly. Clearly we've got a bunch of people that think they can rev their stock internals well beyond factory imposed limits. I'm just gonna grab the popcorn and will sit back to wait for the inevitable "Look what happened to my engine" thread(s) from said people (for some of whom it will be the second time around).
Come to think of it, it really doesn't matter all that much how you want to do it. Either build your engine right the first time, or rev the stock internals as high as you want ... and then rebuild after the big kaboom. Either way, you're going to "build up" your block.
l8r)
Come to think of it, it really doesn't matter all that much how you want to do it. Either build your engine right the first time, or rev the stock internals as high as you want ... and then rebuild after the big kaboom. Either way, you're going to "build up" your block.
l8r)
Last edited by Ludikraut; Apr 22, 2006 at 04:17 PM.
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